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New Boiler HTP UFT080
Ironman
Member Posts: 7,550
This is a nice, well-built boiler with a fire tube HX and 10 to 1 turn down at a great price.
This was a replacement of a W/M Ultra that was grossly over-sized and never had the outdoor sensor connected. We only did the boiler; the rest was already done by others. The Ultra was leaking. The unnecessarily swing check at the left end was clanging like a dinner bell because the piping was wrong and the circulators were fighting each other. The indirect was piped with plumbing pex on the boiler side, and the domestic expansion tank was just laying on the primary loop piping with nothing holding it down. The sloppy wiring was even worse before we strapped it some.
I know that the piping going to the zone valves is not correct, but it works ok and we stopped the clanging check valve. It wasn't in our bid to re-pipe that part.
This was a replacement of a W/M Ultra that was grossly over-sized and never had the outdoor sensor connected. We only did the boiler; the rest was already done by others. The Ultra was leaking. The unnecessarily swing check at the left end was clanging like a dinner bell because the piping was wrong and the circulators were fighting each other. The indirect was piped with plumbing pex on the boiler side, and the domestic expansion tank was just laying on the primary loop piping with nothing holding it down. The sloppy wiring was even worse before we strapped it some.
I know that the piping going to the zone valves is not correct, but it works ok and we stopped the clanging check valve. It wasn't in our bid to re-pipe that part.
Bob Boan
You can choose to do what you want, but you cannot choose the consequences.
You can choose to do what you want, but you cannot choose the consequences.
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Comments
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Looks nice. I like that you can put a base under the boiler instead of wall mounting it.0
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Looks great!
Really like the small stand below the boiler... there's a hole in it's top that lines up the the hole in the bottom of the boiler enabling condensate trap service I assume?
Is your exhaust CPVC Bob?
If it's regular PVC I believe you need to use the 6" gray CPCV transition pipe that was included with the boiler.
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There is no need for a transition pipe with this boiler. We did have one issue with this boiler during freezing rain. As it is a 10 to 1, there is insufficient combustion gas velocity to melt the ice on the supplied grill when operating on low fire. We had to cut some of the grill.
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They don't offer the base separately yet; you have to order it as floor or wall mount.
@NY_Rob
The instructions mentioned the CPVC piece as being included, but ours didn't come with it. Go figure. If I have to, we'll get one.Bob Boan
You can choose to do what you want, but you cannot choose the consequences.0 -
When and if you realize there is a need for the transition CPVC piece it will be too late . They supply it , use it .You didn't get what you didn't pay for and it will never be what you thought it would .
Langans Plumbing & Heating LLC
732-751-1560
Serving most of New Jersey, Eastern Pa .
Consultation, Design & Installation anywhere
Rich McGrath 732-581-38331 -
Forget about pvc or cpvc just go with polypropylene piping.0
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@ironman..
When you did the Comb. Analysis were the readings within factory spec or did you need to adjust?
I know four people (including me) with this same boiler.
Three of them were perfect right out of the box and didn't need any adjustment, one did need adjustment and is still slightly out of spec on +CO despite adjustment.
On two of the boilers (including mine) about a cup of water came out of the bottom supply and return connections after removing the factory rubber caps. It seems they do test (at least some of) the UFT's at the factory- I'm guessing they adjust combustion mix at that time too?
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The two that we installed this winter did not have the CPVC 6 inch pipe. This must be the new revision from July. I prefer the EFT.0
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This did NOT have the CPVC nipple in the box. The I/O manual shows it as one of the parts INCLUDED, but makes no reference to after that. It does NOT have the warning in the manual like posted above and shown in the online manual.
So, which way is the latest requirement or accepted practice?Bob Boan
You can choose to do what you want, but you cannot choose the consequences.0 -
They were in spec from the factory: 9.5% co2 low fire; 11.0% co2 high fire; 41/105 ppm.NY_Rob said:@ironman..
When you did the Comb. Analysis were the readings within factory spec or did you need to adjust?
I know four people (including me) with this same boiler.
Three of them were perfect right out of the box and didn't need any adjustment, one did need adjustment and is still slightly out of spec on +CO despite adjustment.
On two of the boilers (including mine) about a cup of water came out of the bottom supply and return connections after removing the factory rubber caps. It seems they do test (at least some of) the UFT's at the factory- I'm guessing they adjust combustion mix at that time too?
Bob Boan
You can choose to do what you want, but you cannot choose the consequences.0 -
I did one last winter, it included the CPVC. Not a bad unit for the price point. Acoustical lining might be a good upgrade, client said it's a tad louder then the Burnham Freedom it replaced. Had to really dial in the combustion, after the LP conversion, it foghorned.0
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It looks like the most recent install manual is dated 7/21/17.
HTP made quite a few changes from previous revisions, but the requirement for the 6" CPVC exhaust transition piece is still there. It's just not as prominent as in previous revisions....
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If that's the latest, then is it retro-active? And if so, shouldn't HTP supply me with the part and compensate me for my time to return to the job and install it?
I'm all for safety and doing it right, but I honestly cannot see how 6" of CPVC is gonna make it any safer. 6 feet, yes; 6 inches, no. Add to that the fact that this is an 80k boiler running on ODR that replaced a 150k running at 180* constantly, connected to the same vent, and I just can't see it.
My guess is that it was needed with the largest model, under the worst case scenario, to eliminate any liability to HTP; therefore, to make things simple, they applied it to every size.Bob Boan
You can choose to do what you want, but you cannot choose the consequences.0 -
Mine was converted to LP; they didn't have an LP model in stock.NY_Rob said:
Mine was about the same as yours, I decided to tweak it a bit- I probably didn't need to, but here's where I ended up...Ironman said:They in spec from the factory: 9.5% co2 low fire; 11.0% co2 high fire; 41/105 ppm.
Bob Boan
You can choose to do what you want, but you cannot choose the consequences.0 -
I have four of the UFT install manuals dating back to 2015... the requirement for the CPVC adapter is in all of them- I don't think it's anything new?Ironman said:If that's the latest, then is it retro-active?
There is a function to show the exhaust temp on the main display... I haven't checked mine during a DHW call, but for 180F DHW loop temps I'm guessing the exhaust temp gets up near the max for regular PVC vs. CPVC.
You're probably correct that it's there to cover HTP's butt, but since the manual states it (2x) as a requirement not an option- looks like a "must do" for the installer.
HTP 100% owes you the part... it's "included" with every UFT boiler.
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IDK all the programming in the UFT, but since it has a flue temp probe, I would think that it has flue temp protection built in and that it would down fire if it gets too hot.Bob Boan
You can choose to do what you want, but you cannot choose the consequences.0 -
Next time I hear it fire up for DHW I'll check the exhaust temp.
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^ Exhaust reached 145F max during a DHW call.-1
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