Repiping IN6PV

JPL941

Hello everyone.
Last year I posted a few pictures of my IN6PV and discussed the continuous problems. We all decided it's likely the piping. I was fortunate enough to email steamhead several times to figure out exactly what should be done. This weekend I'm having someone come in to configure new piping and I wanted to have a plan in place prior to that meeting (I have some new questions).

Attached are pictures of what the piping should be for an IN6PV, my return system, a sketched Dunham return system and my piping.

Plans is to:
1. Raise the boiler 10 inches so the water line sits 2-3" above the hartford loop according to dunham/burnham diagram (Dunham says 4", burn ham says 2"... Shoot for 3"?
Question: How far can the boiler be from the hartford loop? You can see in my pictures it's several feet. I can't relocate it because of where i'm exhausting the gases (it's at piping limit).
2. Riser 24" above the jacket (like dan suggests)
3. Go away from the burnham diagram a bit and add a drop header, which would be increased to 2.5" after drop and add 3 T's - two for supply (the mains are 2.5") and one back to equalizer pipe. The rest will be piped as shown.
Question: Is there a max distance from equalizer?
4. Fix the restricted return.
5. Remove that air device on top of air eliminator since it's a gas system, not the old coal system.

Question: Pressuretrol or vasporstat? I read that dan recommends vaporstats on 2 pipe steam systems.

I'm hoping I didn't forget any steps (it's getting late).

Thank you for your help.
Look forward to your comments!

MilanD

Definitely use a vaporstat. Op pressure should be ounces.

Danny Scully

Sorry to be negative, but whoever you hired to repipe the near boiler piping should have their own plan. If they don't, they shouldn't be repiping the near boiler piping. While "The Wall" is amazing, it only goes so far. You need to hire someone who can answers all these questions for you, not the other way around. Again, I apologize for the negatively, I just don't want you to pay for something twice, or more. But here goes anyway...1) use a Gifford loop or a false waterline, no need o raise the boiler. 2/3) 24" atleast, and while all applications are great for a drop header, this is tailor made. 4) What restriction? 5) don't eliminate an air vent. If you mean a check valve vacuum vent, ok, but you will need to add main venting, regardless of fuel type. 6) Vaporstat.

You'll also want to remove the size reductions from the header. It needs to be full size throughout, no bushing or reducing fittings of the sort.

New England SteamWorks

I agree with @Danny Scully . What you have is a painful mess just to look at.

What's with the venting? The boiler used to be against the chimney next to the water heater/indirect currently being utilized as a pipe support, and vented into the chimney I am assuming.

The venting appears to be the reason the boiler got moved out into the room? Where/how does it vent now?

Also, venting looks small?

Who supports a header with a water tank?

Painful...

JPL941

Hi Guys,

Yes, I understand that the person doing the job should have their own idea but I should as well. “knuckleheads” have gotten me into this predicament. I wasn’t as well versed in this as I should have been during installation and I need to know what’s going on now. I had 4 experts give me their opinion and I chose the one who said he would pipe like the manual until he said, nah “i like this set up” after it was completed. It was too late.

I thought about a gifford loop but I need to read more about it. My new guy has installed steam systems before and told me it was incorrectly piped when he installed my tankless. I’ll ask him about that. How would a gifford loop work in conjunction with the dunham return trap? Is there a distance limitation on hartford loop/gifford loop/equalizer? I can’t find that anywhere.

I’m not eliminating the “air eliminator” just the check valve. It’s tucked up way high and it can’t be seen in the picture.

Regarding the header, that would be 2” riser to 2.5” header ( i believe the manual calls for 2”) that matches the mains.


The old EFM is sitting exactly where the new boiler is sitting and it was so big that the water line was 2” above the HFL. That horizontal piping was like that from the very beginning. Knuckle heads.

It’s a power vented boiler so the venting is going out a side window. Also, the 2” “riser” is not resting on the water heater. It just looks like that in the picture. I actually want to get rid of it, haven’t had the chance yet.

Thank you all for your help.
Look forward to any additional information.

Danny Scully

Just leave your existing Hartford loop, it's just now considered a Gifford loop because of its height above the waterline. And your riser is bullheading the header, which is bushed down on one end and has a reducing elbow on the other end. This all needs to be changed.

JPL941

Oh ok, thank you. I know exactly what you're saying regarding the piping. All of that will be replaced.

j a_2

I totally agree, with Dan, who ever you hire does need to have his own ideas and plans...He needs to do a complete system evaluation...Pretty sure some guys will and some won't agree, but if a guy comes in and has to have someone else sketch his job,or has to study the install instructions then he sir has no business doing the job....There's a bit more to it than just screwing pipe, and painting it up all pretty

JPL941

Hello everyone, just an update on my system. I believe I found the right team for the job. They will repipe everything according to the manufacturer. I'm hoping all my issues will improve after this. Will also add vaporstat. Thank you all for your help.