Electrode change out how often?

overpop

I'm doing annual maintenance on my properly operating Beckett/Trio oil boiler. How often typically are electrodes replaced?

Jamie Hall

Do you have the necessary combustion measuring instruments? Never mind the gauge to reset the electrodes?

EBEBRATT-Ed

as @Jamie Hall mentioned combustion testing is important. As far as the electrodes go, measure where they are set before removal so you can return them to the same setting if need be. Also, refer to the mfg. instructions for setting and note any differences to where they are presently set.

Spray them with degreaser and clean well. If they are cracked replace them.

HVACNUT

No offense, but if you have to ask that question, you're not qualified to service the burner. You don't have a combustion analyzer, smoke tester, soot vac, oil pressure gauge etc. It's not grandpa's burner that would run as long as there was heat in the flue pipe, and the flame would be "adjusted by eye".
Call a reputable company to service/maintain your boiler. Paying for a full service agreement costs less than COD fuel and an "accident".

STEVEusaPA

To answer a general question about electrode replacement:
-Intermittent ignition, as needed/showing signs of wear/cracking/tips not to a sharp point.
-Interrupted ignition, almost never. In fact I've only ever replaced one set of Riello's and only because I cranked down too hard on the screw.

overpop

Yes I have the Testo and I know how to use it and how to get peak efficiency plus, the "service" guy when I bought the house never reached the efficiency because in part he never installed a variable draft. I ripped out the old cracked boiler, configured the new circulators in pumping away fashion and added primary/secondary pumping. Then installed Onyx for radiant floor. All by my lonesome. Not a lick of trouble with the system in 2 years. And asking the question about replacement of electrodes does not immediately qualify me as a dummy. It's how we as we stupid human beings learn.

Big Ed_4

Why are the porcelains cracking on you ? Or are the electrodes wearing down quickly ? .. Seems odd if happens offten ....

Big Ed_4

The tips will wear down over an long period of time , any cracking replace ...

overpop

No problems, this is just a general question, like changing the nozzle every year, I didn't know if there was a recommended change out time just for good luck. Anyway, I ordered a kit and will have it on hand just for the heck of it. Will degrease the carbon and check gaps/spacing. Online supply place didn't have .60 70 B nozzle arrrrg! Everything else but.....

HVACNUT

If I'm looking at the piping correctly, (and somebody please tell me if I'm wrong) the primary pump is in the wrong location. Its dead heading against the return.
Also, what do you mean by "the service guy never installed a variable draft"? A draft regulator? I don't see one either.

Big Ed_4

I feel if the burner is running good leave it alone .... B are a solid spray pattens , Some guys use the A which is an Hollow pattern , they claim they produce less combustion noise .. I find they don't last as long to hold that pattern .. They were first produced strictly for the old ShellHead burner ... Me I would recommend the W , its an semi solid and its more forgiven now a days with the % of corn oil added to our local fuel and positive pressure three pass boilers , I believe thats is what you may have .. PP3P boilers ..They are tuned with the proper input and angle of fire per burner used .. The W may be an good alternative ..

Best replacing that old oil line , copper will get brittle and leak , Filter better at the tank to protect the oil line from plugging .. Any low point in oil supply will collect water which produces an environment to produce sludge . You will be lucky if your inside tank was pitched toward the valve , then any water would collect in the filter and easy service ... General filter at tank and I would install an Tigerloop Ultra at the burner with vacuum gauge with spin on filter. ... This way you have the second better filter protecting that small nozzle , A gauge to let you know when to service and the TigerLoop will keep the burner primed since your burner will be higher then oil level less the half an tank .. Mount the Tiger loop up high on the boiler to get it ... Braded lines make an an install easy .. Keep that burner running all your bases are covered ..

Big Ed_4

I like to mount Tigerloop above the full tank level , its my extra insurance , even though its not in the instructions .. What ever can happen will happen ..

STEVEusaPA

HVACNUT said:

If I'm looking at the piping correctly, (and somebody please tell me if I'm wrong) the primary pump is in the wrong location. Its dead heading against the return.

I was mulling over that for quite some time. This is a DIY install.

-I wouldn't use a Tigerloop, but from the tank bottom I would run FiroMatic, General & Spin On filters at tank, OSV if gravity, new sleeved oil line, Firomatic at the burner.
-You do need a draft regulator.

Proper filtration, proper draft, true zero smoke, proper nozzle, proper combustion air requirements met and combustion set up with analyzer, and you could easily go 2 years or more without touching it.
I have the above set up on my MPO. I look at the vacuum gauge to determine when I need the filters changed. I do a full combustion test every fall. I'll swing the door open and check to see if no vacuuming is needed.
If the numbers are the same, there's nothing to do. I 'panicked' last year after 3 years to 'clean it', but besides nozzle, strainer and filters (only the General filter showed anything in it), there was nothing to 'clean' in the boiler, flue pipe or chimney base.
Look up at my earlier post about the electrodes.

overpop

I guess I'm a deadhead. I followed schematics in Pumping Away. The original system was pumping into the boiler, I bought new circulators and reversed the flow plus put new expansion tank etc. Draft regulator was added after the picture as after it was impossible to get a proper draft. So, back to this dyi deadhead. The primary pumps away from the boiler and loops back into the boiler. After the primary pumping away pump the zones are picked off the primary loop. The return from these zones are on the return side of the boiler. How should I replumb this to be correct? The system works fine however, but if I can make it better I will.
I have made a lot of mistakes in my life and that's how I have learned. I had NO intention whatsoever to install my own heating system. But I live in Vermont now and there is no work, only one contractor gave me a bid, and my plumbing buddy from CT said read "Pumping Away". Once I read that I got jazzed and realized all of the mistakes the previous oil company had made. Anyway, now that I have done the work, any problem in the future I will be able to take care of. And yes, that oil line is on my list to replace as it was from the old install.

HVACNUT

Can you post some pics?
Typically on P/S, the primary pump is on the return. Your zone pumps pump away.

newagedawn

the only time you need to replace them is if they are cracked or the electrode itself is very very warn and cant make the gap setting

ChrisJ

@overpop As others have said, just keep them clean and adjusted. If the ceramic cracks or something seems really wrong then replace them. As I'm sure you found out maintaining an oil burner isn't rocket science.

Steamhead

ChrisJ said:

As I'm sure you found out maintaining an oil burner isn't rocket science.

Given some of what we see in the field, it's no wonder some people think it is.............

HVACNUT

> @ChrisJ said:
> As I'm sure you found out maintaining an oil burner isn't rocket science.
>
>
> First. I think the OP is long gone.
>
> Simple maintenance of a burner is pretty cut and dry but can easily become a disaster if your not experienced, which the OP is not.
I've gone to countless service calls where DIYers couldn't pull oil from the buried tank, saturations, incorrect nozzle and set up, to name a few examples. It's not rocket science, but it's not gravy either.

EBEBRATT-Ed

Delivering oil isn't rocket science either........Until you have a spill!!

overpop

Years ago I worked on Other Peoples Money with Danny Devito. He rented a house in Westport Ct. for the duration of the shoot. This house was on the market and the owner rented it knowing it would be only 3 months. Shoot began in September and it was requested the oil tank be filled. Problem was, the tank was in the middle of being swapped out and the guy filling it didn't know. I heard it was quite a mess. I assume he stopped as soon as the whistle didn't sound.