Black pipe deforming

JahnBee

Using a ratcheting pipe threader on 1 1/4 black pipe. Threads came out fine but when I took it off the end was like an oval what did I do wrong?

STEVEusaPA

China?
I've pretty much stopped threading anything not made in the USA.

ChrisJ

How long was the pipe you were threading and what was it clamped in?

hot_rod

Is it schedule 40 pipe? the thinner walled sprinkler pipe can oval like that.

Die segments sharp and in the correct order?

JahnBee

this is an approximately 5 ft section up in a ceiling of a home built in 1909,steam heat pipe -- 3 ft of which covered asbestos. local plumber didn't want to touch it/ cost was prohibitive. Pipe was leaking at an elbow which was not coming off- so I cut it off and figured I could thread the pipe and install new connect. my previous description of pipe being oval was incorrect closer inspect reveal pipe was actually somewhat flat on top of area I threaded. The ratchet was brand new so dies were sharp and never removed.I had placed wood blocks against pipe to prevent substantial movement. Based on Crisj's comment maybe it moved too much during thread process?? any further comment is appreciated

ChrisJ

I was thinking you tried threading a short nipple avg the vice crushed it.

Did you use plenty of good threading oil?

JahnBee

CrisJ's question Did you use plenty of good threading oil? actually no - I used 2 cycle motor oil with a white lithium grease spray added in. Went into town and bought threading oil, will try again after cutting off bad thread section.

Paul48

Thinking out loud........100 yr old steam pipe will be considerably thinner on the bottom than the top.

ChrisJ

I would try it with the proper threading oil, take your time and keep it all straight and be careful.

Once you're done, use 3-4 wraps of blue monster tape, pull it around it tight, and get it into the threads. Then smear some Megaloc dope into the threads over the tape.

JahnBee

to be blunt I'm totally screwed now, pipe was cut 3 in more down the line and pipe wall is still considerably thinner at the bottom. Tried to thread and started to change shape within 1/4 inch of the threading. Substantial threading oil used and pipe was secured solid. Looks like I'll be removing asbestos covering till I hopefully hit a union. Thanks to all for your advice, it was appreciated.

JahnBee

As you can see , a small segment of this pipe wall is substantially thinner - it appears to be thinner at the top but I believe this is because the pipe turned during 1st attempt. Lesson learned -never buy an old old house with steam pipe, ha

ratio

If the pipe spun in the insulation, perhaps it can be backed completely out without disturbing the itchy?

JahnBee

yes I was thinking that exactly for my next plan of "attack" prior to mess'n with all of the insulation.

JUGHNE

To me it seems doubtful that old pipe would have "spun" on the next fitting, as threading would have tightened the pipe into the fitting. Maybe pipe twisted or fitting cracked under insulation.

You could go to the next fitting and "crack" it, if it is cast iron.

ChrisJ

JUGHNE said:

To me it seems doubtful that old pipe would have "spun" on the next fitting, as threading would have tightened the pipe into the fitting. Maybe pipe twisted or fitting cracked under insulation.

You could go to the next fitting and "crack" it, if it is cast iron.

Or a union maybe?

JUGHNE

An insulated union would appear to be sort of football shaped about the size of a softball. Not may were used back then from the few systems I have seen for steam or hot water.
Dead men knew they could crack a fitting in the middle of a system and then add a union if needed.

10 lb sledge held tight to one side of cast iron fitting and then whack the opposite side with 2-4 lb hammer. CI will crack open like a walnut.
Will not work on steel.

Larry Weingarten

Hello, It's sort of a Band-aid, but might a dresser coupling work here?

Yours, Larry