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central oil heater chimney

paulmars Member Posts: 33
For reasons unrelated to the oll heater, Id like to move its chimney from venting thru the roof to going out the side of the garage wall. This will involve making the pipe longer and much of that increase will involve the pipe traveling horizontal.

I know that i will need to readjust the barometric damper afterwards.

Any other concerns or things that i should know?



    EBEBRATT-Ed Member Posts: 12,002
    Can't just vent it outside. You need a properly sized masonry chimney or metalbestos type L chimney. There may be a limit on how long your horizontal connector is and the chimney needs to have enough height to overcome this.

    This need to be designed by someone that knows how to do this. The boiler needs to be readjusted with combustion testing.

    You don't need any Co problems
  • paulmars
    paulmars Member Posts: 33
    I will have a complete turn up preformed after i make this mod. I cant afford to pay someone to mod this, but I need to do it right.

    the original bryant install paperwork gives no info on exhaust. I asked them and they said that I need to ask my authorized dealer.

    The original beckett paper work actually gives more info. Like 1/4" rise for every 12", might need an exhaust fan to pull the exhaust out, if exhausting to out side of building, it's better to have the combustion air intake going thru the same wall to balance the unit. that last one I really dont understand and would rather leave the intake in the garage.

    How would that exhaust fan effect setting the damper?

  • STEVEusaPA
    STEVEusaPA Member Posts: 5,689
    edited June 2017
    Make and model number? This would indicate if it could be power vented or even direct vented, but I doubt it could just be atmospheric draft-the max pipe distance from appliance to base of chimney is 10', and must not exceed 75% of the Total Equivalent Pipe Length compared to the height of the chimney.
    I don't understand this part:

    "...I cant afford to pay someone to mod this, but I need to do it right...."

    You should pay someone to do it right and properly test, or you could easily die from Carbon Monoxide poisoning-if the fire doesn't get you first. I'm not trying to make a joke or make light of this.
    Proper venting, proper draft, proper combustion air is absolutely necessary for safety.
    You shouldn't have combustion air pulled in from garage, period. A power venter, if you're able to use one, brings in it's own combustion air.
    A power venter will pull tremendous draft and must have a draft regulator, properly installed, properly set up.
    That's as far as I'm willing to go with helping you understand your options, but I can't in good conscience try to help you install this.
    Maybe others will chime in.
  • Jamie Hall
    Jamie Hall Member Posts: 18,941
    edited June 2017
    @STEVEusaPA is being too gentle. This is not, repeat, NOT, a do it yourself project. It takes a skilled and knowledgeable technician, who has the proper tools and is properly trained, to do this sort of thing safely, never mind right.

    And the comment about the combustion air intake being from the garage terrifies me. What happens, pray tell, if you happen to get some combustible fumes in there from a gas leak in a car, or a spill?
    Br. Jamie, osb
    Building superintendent/caretaker, 7200 sq. ft. historic house museum with dependencies in New England
  • STEVEusaPA
    STEVEusaPA Member Posts: 5,689

    @STEVEusaPA is being too gentle.

    A first for me!