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Sight glass leaking
KayMac
Member Posts: 12
I recently had my boiler serviced (also had 2 Big Mouth vents installed) and now the sight glass is leaking water and steam when it runs when it didn't before. I tightened it on the top and bottom and it didn't help so I assume that the washers are shot. The old main vents never shut so I wonder now that I have these new awesome vents that close when they should it blew out some crummy old washers.
Is it safe to run this way? Should this be a service call or can I replace the washers myself? I am keeping an eye on the water level and adding as necessary (I know this isn't a good thing).
Is it safe to run this way? Should this be a service call or can I replace the washers myself? I am keeping an eye on the water level and adding as necessary (I know this isn't a good thing).
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You can do that yourself, pick up a new sight glass and a set of rubber washers and the thin brass washers that go with them. Do not take anything apart till you have all the parts in hand. make sure you get the right diameter and length of sight glass.
This is best done with the boiler off. Turn both valves off, loosen the nuts and remove the old and replace with the new.
https://www.amazon.com/Crown-Packing-everything-repair-leaking/dp/B013ID4M40/ref=pd_bxgy_328_2?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B013ID4M40&pd_rd_r=AWVCA5A8RTWZ5BWE3T2B&pd_rd_w=pa7Kg&pd_rd_wg=CzP7Z&psc=1&refRID=AWVCA5A8RTWZ5BWE3T2B
BobSmith G8-3 with EZ Gas @ 90,000 BTU, Single pipe steam
Vaporstat with a 12oz cut-out and 4oz cut-in
3PSI gauge0 -
Close the red valves, loosen and move the compression nuts and lift the glass upward and the bottom will come out of its socket. Then pull it downward and out. Check the washers. If they're still flexible and not cracked, try re-assembling after cleaning everything.Bob Boan
You can choose to do what you want, but you cannot choose the consequences.0 -
Agree with @Ironman, on removal technique - I did mine that way but had to cut the new glass myself - easy to do. Make sure the new glass has a little play like the old one
You can try this also as a supplier, this is where I got mine to replace it. First work I did on a boiler.
supplyhouse.com/sh/control/search/~SEARCH_STRING=gauge%20glass
or here:
supplyhouse.com/sh/control/search/~SEARCH_STRING=boiler%20gauge%20glass
Agree with @BobC , don't start until you have the new glass, new compression washers and new brass washers at hand. If you have to cut a length of gauge glass it is really easy. You can use a gauge glass cutter or a triangular file to score it just once and then snap it away from you. Low cost and for piece of mind. My glass cracked on removal (or already was and came apart) but I taped it back together to use as a template for the new glass length.
https://youtube.com/watch?v=-X0AcjyCXZ0-1 -
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Thanks for all your help. The weather finally let up here and I was able to shut the boiler down to cool for a bit. With all your excellent directions I was able to carefully remove the sight glass, the washers were very brittle and crumbling. I replaced them, cleaned the glass and reassembled everything safely without breaking the glass. It is running now and not leaking...Yay!2
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I've noticed that over time, the glass deteriorates and gets really thin. I replaced mine not long ago, and i could not believe how thin the bottom edge was. It was like the tube had been sculpted down into a razor thin edge. I'm guessing it's from the calcium in the water. According to the service tech's notations, it shows 5 years is about the max we can go on a sight glass.1
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I noticed that on this sight glass also, it looked like the glass was shaved down. I guess I am very lucky it didn't break when I put it back together.0
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William McLane glas I have is very thick. I just had it cleaned when we had the section replaced, 7 years, the thing is rather thick.
Fwiw, I did notice WM replacement glass from supplyhouse.com was more expensive from several other ones offered. Perhaps it's bc it's thick.0 -
I keep a spare on hand too. It is a really thick one too. When I need to replace the one that's on the boiler, I will use it. It's not much of an issue. They regular ones last typically five or more years.0
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My boiler is circa 1981...the previous owner (when it was a commercial use building) likely never did any service to it. I have lived in the place since 1996. I don't believe the sight glass has ever been changed. Maybe I have one of the thick ones!0
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Friends, let's call it a gauge glass.
Single pipe quasi-vapor system. Typical operating pressure 0.14 - 0.43 oz. EcoSteam ES-20 Advanced Control for Residential Steam boilers. Rectorseal Steamaster water treatment0 -
Thanks. I'm just a home owner and not sure how to describe what I was looking for but it brought some awesome answers and helped me correct the problem.0
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What's wrong with sight glass?--NBC0
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Perhaps nothing and I could very well be mistaken but my understanding is a sight glass is typically what is used in refrigeration, or to view the oil in a crank case of a pump etc being nothing more than a flat glass window.nicholas bonham-carter said:What's wrong with sight glass?--NBC
At least from what I've seen the manufacturers seem to always call what we have a gauge glass.
Of course, both terms could be both 100% correct, I don't know.
Gauge glass sounds cooler?Single pipe quasi-vapor system. Typical operating pressure 0.14 - 0.43 oz. EcoSteam ES-20 Advanced Control for Residential Steam boilers. Rectorseal Steamaster water treatment1 -
Single pipe quasi-vapor system. Typical operating pressure 0.14 - 0.43 oz. EcoSteam ES-20 Advanced Control for Residential Steam boilers. Rectorseal Steamaster water treatment0
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