Steam pipe question: plugs vs caps (wet return)

Koan

I have a 1-1/4" wet return that used to have an elbow along the floor. I had to re-pipe and rather than replace that el I put a tee in and plugged the run of the tee so that I can remove it and snake out the long run of the wet return if need be. My understanding is that for gas pipe, plugs are against code and the preferred method is to use a nipple and cap. Should I follow the same rule - use a nipple and cap - or is it OK to leave this plugged as it?

Thanks!

Fred

Either way is fine. It's just holding water. I'd wrap the thread with a few rounds of teflon tape to help keep it from seizing up if it's not removed for a few years. A nipple, reducing coupling and drain valve might be more effective.

KC_Jones

If you are that concerned I would do a full port ball valve with a plug. I just have a regular drain on mine, but I used copper and it stays spotlessly clean.

Koan

Gentlemen, my thanks
The sole reason for the tee and plug is in the odd case that I would have to snake it, and I do not expect to have to do so as there is a drain valve (that I failed to mention) only 2 feet away after the turn. Thank you for the feedback. I wrapped it 4x with Blue Monster tape and doped it. Belt and suspenders.

EBEBRATT-Ed

Teflon tape as others have mentioned. Personally I use "Never Seize" as pipe dope with teflon if it's something I know I will be removing occasionally.

There is no code rule about using plugs in gas lines it's done all the time.

I would use a nipple and a cap instead of a plug. I always use nipples and caps to plug boiler tappings.

I do this for several reasons.

#1 if it does get rusted in then you have two chances to get it apart because you have two threads.

#2 If it has to be cut out with a sawzall or torch it's easy to cut the nipple and fold it in.

(There is nothing worse than trying to cut out a solid cast Iron plug)

#3 You will always have more leaks with bushings and plugs. The reason for this is imperfect holes and threads.

Using a nipple and a cap the nipple screwed into an imperfect tapping the nipple can "egg shape" itself to conform to the tapping if need be

a bushing or plug is hard and solid and cannot conform to an irregular tapping and that's why they are more prone to leak

JUGHNE

In addition to everything Ed said above.....I would get rid of the plugs while they can still be easily removed.
The years will pass quickly and then they will be stuck.
I would do the nipple, reducer and some form of hose bib.
Even though you have a drain close to this tee it is nice to drain sludge out thru a hose at every opportunity rather than black stuff on the floor.

Dave0176

As was said above, I don't like plugs on a steam system as your chances of removing them are slim. You have a much better chance with a cap.

SWEI

The dead men used brass plugs when they figured someone might actually need access. Too bad they didn't have Teflon.

EBEBRATT-Ed

haha, no they mixed there own pipe dope. We have it so easy compared to back then.

ChrisJ

Yeah,
I too use brass components on things I plan on removing.

My skim port is now a brass coupler with a brass plug in it. I did that after a ball valve failed from the plating flaking off the ball.

A brass nipple with a steel or brass cap. A brass plug, whatever, it will always come out down the road.

Koan

The reason I started all this is because I too see the benefit to a nipple and cap over a plug. I used a plug for two reasons, I had one, and the pipe tee is on the floor so getting to it with a pipe wrench is harder. If the wet return were not right against the floor I would have used a cap, just not sure I could grab one with a pipe wrench. I figured I could heat up the tee and remove the plug if need be. On the other hand, if the cap was cast Iron, I could smack it with a hammer and crack it open. I'll leave it for this heating season. Maybe a brass plug in the future. Thank you all

Koan

I've attached before and after pics... not in that order. The area noted by the blue line was nearly completely clogged

ChrisJ

That horizontal section up high is risky. Does it bang?

Looks like you need a new T&P on the water heater as well.

Koan

@ChrisJ
Because I am a noob I measured everything and put it back in exactly how it was (except for adding the valves). Never had any noise issues, it is a very short run up to the equalizer, not a take off for a main. Here are some pics of that pipe when it still had the insulation referencing the rest of the piping.

Good eye on the T&P needed on the HWH. it dibbles when triggered and then it is hard to shut off. I ordered the T&P, two magnesium anode rods, and an expansion tank as mine has none.

Gotta get the heat up first though.