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Low water cut off
Comments
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Ok, I got it0
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Here's your IOM.
http://www.ecrdocuments.com/secure/upload/document/4042.pdf
That should have pictures of the castings with the locations of all the tappings and anything else you might need to know in the future.
Bear in mind that this may be for a newer revision that the one you own, and tappings sometimes change, so if you can locate your original OEM, that's your best source of truth on your boiler.Just another DIYer | King of Prussia, PA
1983(?) Peerless G-561-W-S | 3" drop header, CG400-1090, VXT-240 -
Yes , I've came across this pdf, and noticed that there is not a cut out on the jacket for the LWCO pictured. I'm a bit confused, because there is a plug above the sight glass. This is why I was wondering if there may be another tap on the body itself0
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If I elect to replace with the same 67, I have noticed there is a millivolt option. Which model of the 67 should I be looking at I'm a bit confused?0
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Please seal around the flue pipe where it goes into the chimney. I would recommend real castable refractory over the garbage that comes in the bucket.0
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Could you provide a link for it. I do have that bucket stuff though0
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The model # on your unit will simply say #67 for the standard LWCO and #67G for the unit with millivolt switches.eltin said:If I elect to replace with the same 67, I have noticed there is a millivolt option. Which model of the 67 should I be looking at I'm a bit confused?
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Ok the reason I asked is because the feed is 24 volt. Could I swap to the millivolt switch on another 67 for a consistent wiring, or it does not matter ?0
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No you don't want the Millivolt model. You want the standard #67, Part #149400
http://www.supplyhouse.com/Mcdonnell-Miller-149400-67-Float-Type-Low-Water-Cut-off-Steam0 -
Ok thanks0
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I've noticed that water is being lost. I filled the boiler to the water line, and let in run a few times. Condensate does come back but not to the level I've set it at. I do not see any leaks from the main or return. The presuretrol was set at 0.5 and 1 where as the boiler does cut off at about 1.5 psi. I'm suspecting that it could be a vent that was tapped in on a verticle 1-1/4 line in the attic. It whistles very hard. If I were to change it which vent would I use0
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How much water are you losing? Over how long a period? Do you see any steam coming out of the chimney when the boiler is in a heating cycle? Is that vertical pipe just a radiator run-out, feeding one radiator? When you say it whistles, does it do that during the entire heating cycle? Can you see it to see if steam is coming out of it?0
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I'd say from the water line to the minimum, where the LWCO will call for water. I bypassed the thermostat to determine if it was working and to determine if the pressuretrol is cutting off where its suposed to. I would leave the boiler on for about an hour of continous running before it reaches a little less then 1.5 psi and cuts off. There is no steam from the chimney when the boiler is on. The vertical pipe just runs up in a corner to the ceiling. I will assume its capped, because there are no other radiators above it. It whistles like it blowing out air, but I have not seen steam coming from it0
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If you can, post a picture of that vent in the attic. I'm not sure what purpose it serves if no rads are connected to that vertical. Also, verify if you have a one pipe or two pipe steam system.
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This looks like a 2" pipe the same as the main. From the basement I can trace the origin thats routed through the walls. However, its a 1-1/4" I really don't understand why its smaller then transitions to a larger diameter. Also thats the vent which lets of a huge amount of noise. Do I put a bigger vent on it ?0
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When steam hits a vent it is supposed to close, if you have any vents that don't do this you are losing steam. "I have not seen steam coming from it" That's quite possible as steam is invisible.0
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ok, is this the appropriate set up ? and why was this done this way with a larger pipe ?0
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Sometimes they would install a vertical pipe like that to act as a radiator, that would explain the increase in pipe size. This is just a best guess though.0
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Should this vent be changed seeming is it is the furthest from the boiler and blowing ? And if so, which valve ?0
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You can replace that vent with a Maid-o-mist vari-vent or a Gorton #4 or #5 or a Hoffman 1A adjustable vent.0
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I'm curious, why not a Gorton 6 ?0
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Make it easy on yourself and buy a maid o mist 5L, one vent and five orifices - stop guessing what size vent you might need.
https://www.amazon.com/OMIST-0220-5L-Angle-Steam-Valve/dp/B003DV3AGE/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1479947428&sr=8-1&keywords=maid+o+mist+5l
BobSmith G8-3 with EZ Gas @ 90,000 BTU, Single pipe steam
Vaporstat with a 12oz cut-out and 4oz cut-in
3PSI gauge1 -
Ok0
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There is a chart that shows the sq. ft. of EDR per linear ft. of pipe, based on pipe diameter. I can't put my hands on it right now but I think it has been posted on here before. You might want to search it.0
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No chart needed -- measure the outside diameter. Multiply by pi -- 3.14. Divide by 12. That's the EDR per foot.Br. Jamie, osb
Building superintendent/caretaker, 7200 sq. ft. historic house museum with dependencies in New England0 -
@hboogz , see @Jamie Hall 's comment above. It includes the calculation. Thanks Jamiehboogz said:@Fred thanks for the reply. I'll search for it. In my case the pipes are usually capped in the crawl space above the ceiling and a vent is located towards the top of the finished ceiling.
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The MM 67 is dripping from the drain hole. In 2 days It fills a 5 gal bucket. Can this be fixed or do the unit need to be replaced ?0
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I'm not sure if this is the right thread, but with this boiler can baseboards be added to the basement ? Or should I look into another way of heating the basement ?0
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