Got to back cut my first busted fitting, lesson learned!

adamfre

Y'all have taught me a lot

Someone before me cut the steam pipe going up to the 2nd floor bathroom, about an inch before an elbow. The elbow is in a place where I couldn't take it off to replace it so my only option as to split the piece of pipe left behind and remove it. So I replaced the blade in my saw and cut through the stub so fast I was in the elbows threads before I knew it (mental note, use care with new blade). Anyway, will enough tape prevent this from leaking? Or is there another trick of the trade I can try?

Danny Scully

Try @Hatterasguy method. It might be your best shot. Threads look cut deep from the photo.

Fred

That's why I always like to use one of these on those kinds of jobs. Takes a little longer but less risk of cutting deep into the threads. Not that that's going to help fix this one.
http://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/product_200617583_200617583

Fred

Hatterasguy said:

Fred said:

That's why I always like to use one of these on those kinds of jobs. Takes a little longer

............your chronological age increases by one year for every fitting you do.

something to be said for the reduction in your stress level though.

Paul48

I'd replace that elbow. You don't have a lot of wall thickness left, and the tapered threads may split it. If not when you tighten it, maybe when it heats up. IMHO

EBEBRATT-Ed

The more of them you do the better you get at it. Small fittings are more difficult. If the fix doesn't work (but it probably will) you may have another shot. A 4" grinder with a cutting disk. Slice the side of the elbow and then drive an old screwdriver in the slot to open up the elbow. You may have to do a little chopping and put a 45 on it then a nipple and another 45. 45s are straighter--less chopping

adamfre

Thanks guys! I appreciate your advice.

Koan

I think I would agree with @Fred and replace the elbow, but not only for the reason that the cut into the thread is deep. The sectioned stub you removed looks like the threads are in pretty good shape. A close up of the elbow shows the threads in the elbow look pretty rough. Agreeing fully with @Fred, that close up does also show you are half way through the elbow wall.
I wonder how they got that elbow on ? Is there a junction above that is accessible? If not then @EBEBRATT-Ed 's idea of using two 45 ells has a lot of merit once the old 90 ell is massaged off.

Might try PB Blaster on the outside of the pipe, later heating the elbow put a cold wet cloth on the pipe. Screwing in another pipe where you removed the stub might help to break it loose . If not then grinding and or sawing.

ChrisJ

I really don't understand why so many guys recommend cutting into the pipe.

The way I use this cannot happen.

Cut the pipe off about 1/2" or even an inch from the fitting.
Use cold chisel to cave pipe in from the side. It folds the pipe in away from the fitting and spins right out.

It takes a little more muscle, but you have zero chance of cutting into your good threads.


I realize this doesn't help the OP in his current situation, but it may help him and others down the road. Stop cutting into the pipes, once you damage the threads my method is actually far easier.

EBEBRATT-Ed

@ChrisJ your method id fine and is just one way of doing the job, but what size pipe are we talking about??

I don't think you can cave in anything under 1" or 1 1/4"

ChrisJ

EBEBRATT-Ed said:

@ChrisJ your method id fine and is just one way of doing the job, but what size pipe are we talking about??

I don't think you can cave in anything under 1" or 1 1/4"

We're on the steam forum, so I'd think 1" is as small as you'd likely be going no?

On smaller than 1" I crushed one a galvanized 3/4" once with a wrench just trying to remove it from a brass fitting on my water meter. Does that count? Probably not, but it's all I've got.

@Charlie from wmass Can crush a 1/2" with his thumb.

Dave0176

ChrisJ said:

I really don't understand why so many guys recommend cutting into the pipe.

The way I use this cannot happen.

Cut the pipe off about 1/2" or even an inch from the fitting.
Use cold chisel to cave pipe in from the side. It folds the pipe in away from the fitting and spins right out.

It takes a little more muscle, but you have zero chance of cutting into your good threads.


I realize this doesn't help the OP in his current situation, but it may help him and others down the road. Stop cutting into the pipes, once you damage the threads my method is actually far easier.

@ChrisJ I do the same as the OP once or twice I've hit the threads, however connot report any leaks to date. I've never cut straight through the threads though.

Abracadabra

ChrisJ said:

Cut the pipe off about 1/2" or even an inch from the fitting.
Use cold chisel to cave pipe in from the side. It folds the pipe in away from the fitting and spins right out.

Not gonna work on 2"+ With 2" pipe you might get the nipple to cave a bit but not enough to help get it out. No way you are doing that on a 3+ pipe.

ChrisJ

Abracadabra said:

ChrisJ said:

Cut the pipe off about 1/2" or even an inch from the fitting.
Use cold chisel to cave pipe in from the side. It folds the pipe in away from the fitting and spins right out.

Not gonna work on 2"+ With 2" pipe you might get the nipple to cave a bit but not enough to help get it out. No way you are doing that on a 3+ pipe.

I did it on both of my 2" mains no problem.
Forget "cave a bit", they caved a lot. It takes a decent hammer and some time but works very well and I'm sure would work on 3" and 4", likely easier than smaller stuff.

Pumpguy

Couldn't you just break up that iron elbow?

Back up one side of the elbow with something solid metal like the heel of a pipe wrench and hit the other side with a heavy hammer until it breaks apart.

Saw Norm Abram do that on an episode of This Old House, only he didn't back up the other side so it took him longer than it should have for the elbow to break apart. But I can forgive him, being a carpenter and not a plumber.

ChrisJ

Pumpguy said:

Couldn't you just break up that iron elbow?

Back up one side of the elbow with something solid metal like the heel of a pipe wrench and hit the other side with a heavy hammer until it breaks apart.

Saw Norm Abram do that on an episode of This Old House, only he didn't back up the other side so it took him longer than it should have for the elbow to break apart. But I can forgive him, being a carpenter and not a plumber.

I tried breaking a cast iron elbow and ended up grinding a groove in it and cracking it with a chisel.

Folding the pipe in is easier IMO.

Fred

I guess everybody has an approach that they feel most comfortable with. Trying to fold a pipe in on itself wouldn't be my first choice. I'd much rather either break the fitting if it's cast iron or cut down to the threads. That is my preference. Also, there are as many times when you are trying to save the pipe and get rid of the fitting as there are times when you are trying to save the fitting and get rid of the pipe.

EBEBRATT-Ed

@Fred has it right I would prefer to cut the fitting off but you can't always get what you want.

I have found the best way to cut the pipe out of a fitting is with a cutting torch (I know, I know you can't use one in some places without burning the place down). When you get near the threads move the torch away quickly, the torch will cut the steel nipple but won't readily cut the cast iron elbow. A malleable elbow or a steel coupling is a different story, hit those to hard with the torch and your done