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KHN 085 Install complete pictures

keyotekeyote Posts: 659Member








Comments

  • keyotekeyote Posts: 659Member
    still have to install the con x us but figured id wait till after i short out the boiler, and i need to make limestone thing for the condensate, and was thinking i ought to install a trap primer for that drain.
  • Solid_Fuel_ManSolid_Fuel_Man Posts: 1,711Member
    Curious as to what those braided lines are?

    Taylor
    Serving Northern Maine HVAC, and Controls
  • keyotekeyote Posts: 659Member
    Im replacing an old cast iron system one floor at a time top floor is renovated with radiant heat. although the KHN mods down to 8500 i was worried the top floor alone might be too small a zone on warmer days and cause cycling so the cellar had an abandoned finn tube loop which i figured i could flush well enough to safely hook it up to run whenever the top floor calls for heat as a sort of buffer or mass. The braided lines are something i had kicking around which had strainers and valves on them so used them to come off the cellar zone valve into the cellar finn tube loop its temporary eventually the cellar will get a radiant loop
  • BoonBoon Posts: 238Member
    [question from another post regarding this install] was wondering if you knew what that brass fitting is tapped into the fresh air starter piece looks like it ought to have a hose or is it when they test the flue gas?

    There is a small, blue-ish-colored rubber-ish tube that connects from that fitting on the fresh air intake to a port on the front of the gas valve. In your top picture, it looks like I can see the tube coming around from the back of the gas valve and connected to the port on the gas valve.
    DIY'er ... ripped out a perfectly good forced-air furnace and replaced it with hot water & radiators.
  • keyotekeyote Posts: 659Member
    thanks boon dont know how i missed that going blind
  • GordyGordy Posts: 9,264Member
    edited October 2016
    Those braided lines will allow oxygen diffusion into the system if the tubing is not impervious to oxygen diffusion through its wall.
  • keyotekeyote Posts: 659Member
    Thanks Gordy
    the top floors radiant tubing is oxygen barrier, the braided hoses are to the cellar copper finn tube loop i added for ballast,they were leftover from a job, used for fan coils assumed they were air tight actually didnt think about the possibility, was orginally going to use pex but 1" pex is stiffer than copper and the 1/2" pex i had was too small for the 3/4" finn tube ill have to think of something
  • BoonBoon Posts: 238Member
    edited October 2016
    @Gordy @Stephen Minnich I see you disagreed with my post to keyote about the tube running from the brass fitting on the fresh air intake to the gas valve. That is definitely what I see in my boiler so I conveyed that to Keyote. Did I misrepresent or something? I don't understand the disagree and I'd be happy [obligated] to edit or remove my post if that is wrong. But, again, that is how my boiler came from the factory and it is, of course, still like that.
    DIY'er ... ripped out a perfectly good forced-air furnace and replaced it with hot water & radiators.
  • keyotekeyote Posts: 659Member
    I didnt see those little disagree buttons either it sure seemed to me they went together and you say they were still connected on yours maybe gordy or stephen will explain i wonder if they are referring to the 3/4" braided lines i tied the cellar finn tube in with?
  • Steve MinnichSteve Minnich Posts: 2,468Member
    @Boon I just changed my "Disagree". If I'm scrolling on my phone, I hit the wrong buttons all the time. Fat, arthritic fingers and thumbs.
    PHC News Columnist
    Minnich Hydronic System Design & Consultants
  • GordyGordy Posts: 9,264Member
    Ha imagine that sorry boon. The radio buttons are touchy. I just have big thumbs.......
  • keyotekeyote Posts: 659Member
    hey maybe I could use that excuse
  • keyotekeyote Posts: 659Member
    BTW you guys have no problems with my instal except the braided hoses are probably not oxygen barrier? I did add a second pressure tank in tandem with the other and this runn the pressure didnt rise at all or if it did it was only a lb.And i did put that LWCO just behind the pump but i see that was after the pics. AHH and then it drove me crazy with its tee leaking.
  • njtommynjtommy Posts: 1,104Member
    Clean up the wiring and you should be good.
  • Steve MinnichSteve Minnich Posts: 2,468Member
    And use a level next time! Plumb. Level. Straight. Secure. Professional. Those are the tests Tim must pass when he's piping for me.
    PHC News Columnist
    Minnich Hydronic System Design & Consultants
  • Steve MinnichSteve Minnich Posts: 2,468Member
    I made a piping acronym for Tim ->
    PPLUSS
    P - Professional
    P- Plumb
    L - Level
    U - Unusually awesome
    S - Straight
    S - Secure
    It's working too.
    PHC News Columnist
    Minnich Hydronic System Design & Consultants
  • keyotekeyote Posts: 659Member
    Maybe its the camera angles,everything's laser leveled. Only thing with a pitch are the two blowoffs and make up vent going into drain trap, because the insulation isn't on yet so theyre sagging on the horizontal. Its all secured to the board with copper brackets and 3/8 threaded rod. Even the low and high voltage cables are secured to the board in straight lines until just before the boiler where i give them a bit of slack because when i reno that floor they will get a new circuit and I'll make a couple changes.
    Wait that's not true, I did swing the S/R elbow unions off the DHW tank to get the distance off the panel I wanted. To fit it all in the space, and line up with the boiler tappings, and have the pipes cross paths, it's layered. In plan view there are 4-5 layers off the panel that can be seen.
  • keyotekeyote Posts: 659Member
    edited October 2016
    Nobody noticed I wall mounted the boiler. Used hilti epoxy and studs into the concrete foundation wall.bolted an angle shelf under the unit it sits on with a couple SM screws to keep it from moving, and drilled three 3/8 holes into the back at the top aligned with the studs. This things light enough you can lift it with one arm and I wanted it up off the floor.
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