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Honeywell L8148a fail,considering Hydrolevel 3250 plus
wrooper
Member Posts: 58
in Oil Heating
Hi all,
I have read posts [here and elsewhere] about the L8148a control failing when the solder cracks or contacts corrode . I believe this is exactly what happened to me this morning when the boiler operated to temp and the remote HW circulator was running but the main circulator was not. I disconnected the 120V at the main circulator and "hot wired" a separate circuit outside the control and my main circulator ran,producing hot water [and normal radiation][I do have a bypass that feeds my HW heat exchanger so no worries about damaging main circulator by running it 24/7 until I get the 8148 replaced]
My 8148 is so poorly located that it will be a PITA to "dewire" it to allow me to investigate further/do some soldering.It doesn't help that it is wired on a 20A circuit with 12Ga wire.
I am considering replacing the 8148 with a Hydrolevel 3250 plus and adding a remote mounting kit for future ease of service and perhaps get some oil savings from their thermal logic [indoor reset based on firing times,as I understand it]
Does anyone believe I will get some savings? Any experience with Hydrolevel reliability? Is the Hydrolevel compatible with my boiler/zone valve controller?
My system was built/designed by me to approximate a System 2000 [without their logic board and prices]
LAARS D-MAX steel low volume boiler,direct vented with Beckett gun
TACO ZVC406 and TACO zone valves
Remote HW tank with flat plate heat exchanger,operated by bronze circulator
TACO mixing valves feeding radiant floors and towel bars on first floor
Baseboards on second floor
Thanks in advance
I have read posts [here and elsewhere] about the L8148a control failing when the solder cracks or contacts corrode . I believe this is exactly what happened to me this morning when the boiler operated to temp and the remote HW circulator was running but the main circulator was not. I disconnected the 120V at the main circulator and "hot wired" a separate circuit outside the control and my main circulator ran,producing hot water [and normal radiation][I do have a bypass that feeds my HW heat exchanger so no worries about damaging main circulator by running it 24/7 until I get the 8148 replaced]
My 8148 is so poorly located that it will be a PITA to "dewire" it to allow me to investigate further/do some soldering.It doesn't help that it is wired on a 20A circuit with 12Ga wire.
I am considering replacing the 8148 with a Hydrolevel 3250 plus and adding a remote mounting kit for future ease of service and perhaps get some oil savings from their thermal logic [indoor reset based on firing times,as I understand it]
Does anyone believe I will get some savings? Any experience with Hydrolevel reliability? Is the Hydrolevel compatible with my boiler/zone valve controller?
My system was built/designed by me to approximate a System 2000 [without their logic board and prices]
LAARS D-MAX steel low volume boiler,direct vented with Beckett gun
TACO ZVC406 and TACO zone valves
Remote HW tank with flat plate heat exchanger,operated by bronze circulator
TACO mixing valves feeding radiant floors and towel bars on first floor
Baseboards on second floor
Thanks in advance
0
Comments
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The Hydrolevel control is fine. I'd consider the Beckett AquaSmart alsoTo learn more about this professional, click here to visit their ad in Find A Contractor.0
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Burn down your house, not so much. Leave a big water mess certainly.STEVEusaPA said:I would never try to solder/fix an operating/safety control. You assume all liability, and if you end up with a run away control that burns down your house...yikes!
Otoh considering the original soldering was likely done in China I would regard my own soldering as more reliable
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Ha ! I was searching for another topic and happened to see the comment on my old post. Dim? the other poster [and perhaps yourself] didn't understand what an aquastat does/what my failure was0
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situation.
You could burn down your house with a run-away boiler.wrooper said:
Burn down your house, not so much. Leave a big water mess certainly.
Otoh considering the original soldering was likely done in China I would regard my own soldering as more reliable
There was an error rendering this rich post.
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