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I need a 1-1/4 male to 1-1/2 female adapter, does this exist?

SethKSethK Member Posts: 43
edited June 2016 in THE MAIN WALL
I finally removed the 1-1/4 union from a radiator and now I need to put my 1-1/2 union on it, but I can't seem to find any flare/adapter/reducer/bushing/fitting/whatever other name is used for these. Do these exist? Or can I make one out of 2 pieces -- nipple and a reducing coupling or some other name I can't guess?

Or... Should I try to remove the larger (iron?) plug from the other side of the radiator and plug the smaller size? The radiator is from 1898, would it be possible to remove a plug? Lots of WD-40?


  • JUGHNEJUGHNE Member Posts: 7,059
    Usually this might be reduced below the floor with a 1 1/2 X 1 1/4 reducing 90 ell. Then everything above the floor would be 1 1/4" fittings. Steam or hot water?

    WD-40 usually won't do much for something like smells to good. I would try PB-blaster or Kroil and probably a torch.
    But would avoid trying to remove the larger bushing altogether if possible.
  • Paul48Paul48 Member Posts: 4,492
    There isn't a bushing on the 1 1/4" side?
  • Jamie HallJamie Hall Member Posts: 13,110
    Don't even think about removing the plug from the other end...

    I presume that a) there was a very good reason to remove the union (and, I presume, the matching valve) and that b) there is an equally good reason why you can't use a new 1 1/4 union (and matching valve)?
    Br. Jamie, osb

    Building superintendent/caretaker, 7200 sq. ft. historic house museum with dependencies in New England.

    Hoffman Equipped System (all original except boiler), Weil-Mclain 580, 2.75 gph Carlin, Vapourstat 0.5 -- 6.0 ounces per square inch
  • SethKSethK Member Posts: 43
    edited June 2016
    Paul48: you're right, I think there is an adapter in there already! I scratched the paint off and I think those are threads.

    It took a cold chisel and a pipe wrench to remove the old union, how do I get this off?

    Jamie: I got this beautiful radiator on craigslist, I removed the union from my old boring and over-sized radiator so I can put it on this one. I could replace the entire valve but I'd rather not if I don't have to.
  • Paul48Paul48 Member Posts: 4,492
    Replace the entire valve. That is not what I expected. I expected to see a hex bushing. For all I know, that may be a pressed in threaded insert. Too much work, if it is. Have you pressure tested that, with at least 5 psi?
  • SethKSethK Member Posts: 43
    You don't think I should try to saw it in half or drill holes in it to turn it? Also do you have suggestions of where to buy a valve? Home depot wanted like $130...

    I haven't tested it or most of the radiators I've been picking up. One that we got had a tiny leak or 2 between sections, but those seemed to quickly rust shut. I usually buy radiators for $40-$75 so it's not too big a loss if one is bad.
  • That looks more like 1", no? Whatever the size, why remove the bushing? Just go with the smaller opening.
    Often wrong, never in doubt.

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  • FranklinDFranklinD Member Posts: 399
    Holy crow! I know we don't discuss pricing here, but my local menards (and a certain "supply house" website) sells steam/hot water rated radiator angle valves for sub-$20. They're probably not the best (Matco-Norca) but I've been using several of them for 2 years now without any issues.
    Ford Master Technician, "Tinkerer of Terror"
    Police & Fire Equipment Lead Mechanic, NW WI
    Lover of Old Homes & Gravity Hot Water Systems
  • JUGHNEJUGHNE Member Posts: 7,059
    Where does the 1 1/2" piping come into this story. Also is this steam or hot water?
  • SethKSethK Member Posts: 43
    edited June 2016
    The union I removed from my old radiator has 1 1/2" male threaded piece. The hole in this radiator is 1 1/4". It's easy to find an adapter to reduce the size of the hole, increasing it has proven tougher.

    I soaked it with some WD-40 and will give it the ole college try, I might even try putting the old union back in and turning the bushing, but it sounds like I should just buy a new valve. Hopefully getting the old valve off will be less of an adventure.
  • JUGHNEJUGHNE Member Posts: 7,059
    What is the pipe size coming thru the floor?
  • Paul48Paul48 Member Posts: 4,492
    1.25" close nipple and a 1.5 x 1.25 reducer coupling.
  • SteamheadSteamhead Member Posts: 13,929
    The Verona radiator page in "E.D.R." says that these radiators were tapped 2-inch. The adapter is a "face bushing" that was screwed in. With that said, if 1-1/4" will work on this, I'd leave the face bushing alone. Veronas are very hard to find if you break this one!
    All Steamed Up, Inc.
    "Reducing our country's energy consumption, one system at a time"
    Steam, Vapor & Hot-Water Heating Specialists
    Oil & Gas Burner Service
    Baltimore, MD (USA) and consulting anywhere.
  • SethKSethK Member Posts: 43
    Before I give people measurements, I need to ask something. I've been giving the size of the threads, but is that right? The hole in the radiator is 1.25", so would I need to order a 1" ID steam valve, or 1.25"? I'm pretty sure I measure pipes from their inner diameter, but when it comes to couplings and bushing and unions I realize I don't know...
  • JUGHNEJUGHNE Member Posts: 7,059
    1 pipe steam with a 1" inlet.....I haven't seen much, but never seen anything smaller than 1 1/4" valve/inlet. But I don't get to town often. Any input on this sizing....certainly connected to a 1 1/2" riser??
  • SethKSethK Member Posts: 43
    edited June 2016
    The riser is about 1.75" OD so I guess 1 1/2".

    The radiator looks like it used to be used on 1" 1-pipe steam. Just the bushing alone looks like it will trap a huge amount of water in the radiator...
  • KC_JonesKC_Jones Member Posts: 4,413

    The entire second floor of my house (4 rads biggest one being 40EDR) is piped with 1" pipe and valves.
    2014 Weil Mclain EG-40
    EcoSteam ES-20 Advanced Boiler Control
    Boiler pictures updated 2/21/15
  • ChrisJChrisJ Member Posts: 11,143
    All of my steam radiators have bushings in them, many to 1 1/4", and others to 1".

    A common misconception about steam is that radiators and pipes cannot hold water or they will bang. This is false.

    The water just cannot impede the flow of steam, or get sucked into the flow of steam. If water ends up in the flow of steam, it causes the steam to condense which causes hammering.

    A perfect example of water and steam mingling without issue is the boiler.

    Can you share some pictures of what you're working with?
    It may help greatly.
    Single pipe quasi-vapor system. Typical operating pressure 0.14 - 0.43 oz. EcoSteam ES-20 Advanced Control for Residential Steam boilers. Rectorseal Steamaster water treatment
  • SethKSethK Member Posts: 43
    Thanks everyone for the links. Based on this info I have a 1.25" riser (I think) and a 1" connection to the radiator. Hatterasguy the valves you linked have the same size input and output. If I buy a 1" valve don't I have the same problem again? To put the valve on the pipe I still need an adapter that is 1-1/4" female on one side and 1" male on the other.
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