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Damper error on 2 New s8610u intermittent pilot controls????

I know my tenant is pissed by now. Been there at least five times within the past two months trying to find the problem.changed pilot burner, ignition wire, then boiler control (s86c with s8610u).

Even when I first installed the s8610u, I was getting the 5 led blink (, damper error). However, it worked for a few days. Today, they have no heat again. When I got there, noticed the control was still giving the damper error, and loolocked out the control.

However, there isn't, and never was, a damper! I replaced the control today and immediately the boiler kicked on.. Pilot, ignition, then main valve. New control still giving damper error. I know it will lock out eventually again if I don't fix this.

Double and triple checked the wiring, according to the manual. I'm at loss on what to do now.

Is there a way to manipulate the six pin molex connector to make the control think there is a damper attached??? Is the first boiler control just garbage?? It can't be internally reset??

Appreciate any help anyone can give. Thanks guys.

Comments

  • Tinman
    Tinman Member Posts: 2,808
    edited April 2016
    mookie3333 - My suggestions would not include trying to manipulate the 6 pin connection. So, you saw in the directions the slight wiring differences of going from an S86C to an S8610U?
    Steve Minnich
  • mookie3333
    mookie3333 Member Posts: 83
    Yes. Mv to mv. Pv/mv to pv/mv .. Pv to Pv ..ground to ground ... 25v to 25gnd, and lastly 25v to thw, which it states avoid the 24v terminal if there's no damper installed.

    Only thing I can think of is maybe I have the transformer legs mixed up? Ie. Swap the 25v ground and the thw ... But why would that produce a damper error?? The transformer leads are from a L8148j aquastat relay.
  • Tinman
    Tinman Member Posts: 2,808
    edited April 2016
    I did some checking and it seems there may have been a problem with a batch of the S8610U's. I would call Honeywell Tech Support tomorrow to verify that. There are 4 more numbers stamped on the control, maybe the back, that you'll have to have for them.
    Steve Minnich
  • Abracadabra
    Abracadabra Member Posts: 1,948
    Just trying to cover all bases, but the controls you have put in are new right? Sounds like maybe the controls were installed in a setup with a damper and then maybe returned?
  • Tim McElwain
    Tim McElwain Member Posts: 4,641
    edited April 2016
    Did you plug in the dummy plug into the six pin connector from the S86 control? If you did that is the problem. The S8610U 3009 does not require anything plugged into the six pin connector.

    Honeywell should include that in their instruction but they do not.

    What leads are wired from the L8148J to the S8610U make sure it is the 24 volt leads. The J has B1, B2 and B3. It should be wired from B1 and B3 for a 24 volt feed.
  • mookie3333
    mookie3333 Member Posts: 83
    Thanks for the help guys.
    These are two "new" controls, first one is from a supply house here in Brooklyn that doesn't allow returns/exchanges on electrical parts (For this same reason, I assume!)

    Second is from Amazon, if it were returned it would probably be resold as a "warehouse deal".

    I didn't plug anything into the six pin connector.

    The manual does say that The control has a "10x call for heat " allowance before it "locks in" the damper presence.

    Tried to call honeywell, they transferred me to India. I was told they don't offer support because it's a professionally installed product.

    The 24V leads are from B1 and B3. on the 8610. They measure 23.9V across.

    Not for nothing, but this seems like a pretty dumb design. If this is supposed to be "professionally installed", then why cater for all these fail safes? There are 2 jumper setting also, to change "pre purge time" and "ignition trial time". After 20x call for heat, these are also "burned" into the memory. Weird design, if you ask me.

  • mookie3333
    mookie3333 Member Posts: 83
    Call me stupid... I was reading the error code wrong the second time. THe first time, there actually was a damper error. Late at night, I was exhausted and haphazardly flipped through the install manual. Connected my 24v to 24V GND, and to 24V. Manual says for no damper, should be connected to 24V GND, and TH-W. Doh! That control shut down on damper error/no damper connected.

    Second control was blinking 5 times- but a 4 second solid in between. blinking 5 times means the flame current number of micro amps. not 5 blink damper error! Learn something new every. Feel stupid for not catching this the first time around!