Boiler crack question

dtopp45

Hi I have a question about my boiler. Pressure was low and found a leak on the block which the tech confirmed. Not a big leak and doesn't leak on to the ground all the time. Heat still going and getting estimates to replace/hoping it keeps going until then. The tech turned the auto fill valve off to keep the pressure down to keep it alive longer (I think??). However I'm not sure there's a low water cut off. How would I know? Is this asking for it to run dry?? Thoughts?

dtopp45

Do I just turn it on. Nothing else needs to be done with pressure? It's been off since yesterday

dtopp45

Also, will it just keep leaking and die at some point. Just trying to survive the next few days/week until I can replace it.

Fred

Yes, all you have to do is turn it back on. It needs to be on since you know it is leaking water. Post a picture of the boiler and we can tell you if itt has a Low water cut-off (LWCO). If it is a probe type, you will have a box that most likely will say "Safegard" or CycleGard" on it. If it is a float type, it likely will be a McDonnell Miller #67 or possibly another number. If float type, it should be the unit that you blow down once a week??

dtopp45

Sorry. It's baseboard hot water not steam. Almost positive there is no low cut off.

Jamie Hall

Probably no low water cutoff -- but you could get in difficulties if the pressure drops too low. Turn the autofeed back on, as has been said. The worst that will happen is that the leak will steadily increase...

dtopp45

Ok. That was my gut feeling. Thanks everyone for your help. The tech confused me it seems.

billtwocase

Looking at the pics, that explains it. Notorious for the crack. There is no LWCO on it, so leave the feed on, and have an old towel on the floor to it's right side under the jacket

dtopp45

That's what I heard from others as well. Thanks everyone for the help. Any brand for a replacement that more reliable? One guy wants to install Utica? One Well-McLein? If I can buy enough time I might be able to convert to gas as its in the house. Oil and boiler came with my purchase. Still winter here so...

HydroAirJoe

She's a leaker :-)

Jamie Hall

You've got time, so don't rush it. There are a number of really good boilers out there, both conventional cast iron and newer (and more expensive) mod/cons. The folks here on the Wall all have preferences... !

One very important point: you are not only buying the boiler, but you are buying the folks who install it. You want to make sure that you are happy with them, and that they are competent. They will also have preferences -- and it pays to pay attention to what they like to install.

Aaron_in_Maine

I would recommend a Biasi or Buderus cold start boiler you would have to add an indirect water heater but the fuel savings in the long run out weight that. Also they are both listed for gas and oil so to switch it over later you just have to buy the burner and have it installed.

lchmb

I to like the Buderus...Options for gas would be the Triangle tube combi depending on size needed. Worse case size the boiler to the heat load and add an indirect. What area are you located in?

dtopp45

Thanks.

dtopp45

Thanks. I'll look into Buderus and ask around.

Aaron_in_Maine

Check out the insulation on Biasi as compared to Buderus. The difference is astounding. Biasi suffers so much standby loss in unconditioned space that all of their efforts to improve AFUE to a large value are completely negated.

Biasi is a company that clearly is only concerned about the AFUE and not at all concerned about the system efficiency.

Buderas is not.

But the Buderus does not have the air shutter anymore which makes for standby loss up the chimney. Biasi still comes with the air shutter. I don't think the insulation makes that much of a difference in my opinion.

billtwocase

Pensotti gets my vote

Aaron_in_Maine

Wow I would have never guessed that much loss in the copper line.

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