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*Urgent* Oil furnace keeps locking out

HunterDan
Member Posts: 7
I'm in a little bit of a jam here, were fixin to get a blizzard this weekend, and my heat starts to give me problems. It's a Kerr summit oil furnace with a Beckett R7184P burner.
So here's the problem. Two days ago, before bed I noticed it was kind of chilly inside, checked the thermo and it said 64, tried to turn it up (was "set" on 68), went downstairs and found the burner flashing in lockout. I reset it, it fired back up and ran for about 20 minutes, and locked out again.
I've got a full tank of fuel, I drained about 3 gals from the tank thinkin there may be some crap sitting in there, put in some additive since its been super cold, and I've changed the filter. I've also checked the cad sensor, and it is clean.
There's been 2 guys here to "diagnose". One said the systems done and I need to buy a new one, at the price of about 9500$ (give me a break, calmly asked this guy to leave). The next guy, different company, said there's just some Water in the fuel, he suggested the draining some and changing the filter.
AS OF NOW
It seems when I reset it during the day, it will run anywhere from 15 minutes to 2 hours, but will always lock out. When I reset it at night, it will only run for 15-20 mins.
If I sit at the burner, when the flame dies and it goes into "recycle mode" for 20 seconds, it tries to re-ignite, but won't UNLESS I crack the bleeder screw while it is trying to fire up, then it will fire up and run again for a bit until it locks out again. It will never re-ignite on its own after lockout unless I hit the bleeder. I get no air out when I do that, it is all pure fuel.
Any insight on this? The second guy said I'm safe to keep resetting it, but something needs to happen because going down every 15-30 mins to reset it sucks
So here's the problem. Two days ago, before bed I noticed it was kind of chilly inside, checked the thermo and it said 64, tried to turn it up (was "set" on 68), went downstairs and found the burner flashing in lockout. I reset it, it fired back up and ran for about 20 minutes, and locked out again.
I've got a full tank of fuel, I drained about 3 gals from the tank thinkin there may be some crap sitting in there, put in some additive since its been super cold, and I've changed the filter. I've also checked the cad sensor, and it is clean.
There's been 2 guys here to "diagnose". One said the systems done and I need to buy a new one, at the price of about 9500$ (give me a break, calmly asked this guy to leave). The next guy, different company, said there's just some Water in the fuel, he suggested the draining some and changing the filter.
AS OF NOW
It seems when I reset it during the day, it will run anywhere from 15 minutes to 2 hours, but will always lock out. When I reset it at night, it will only run for 15-20 mins.
If I sit at the burner, when the flame dies and it goes into "recycle mode" for 20 seconds, it tries to re-ignite, but won't UNLESS I crack the bleeder screw while it is trying to fire up, then it will fire up and run again for a bit until it locks out again. It will never re-ignite on its own after lockout unless I hit the bleeder. I get no air out when I do that, it is all pure fuel.
Any insight on this? The second guy said I'm safe to keep resetting it, but something needs to happen because going down every 15-30 mins to reset it sucks
0
Comments
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Don't keep resetting. You've got a fuel restriction, from the sounds of it. You need to get a tech there to dig into it.0
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Yea I'm going to call in the am to have someone from a different company come check it out. I just want someone that will check the system and not try to sell me.
Think maybe a clogged nozle, or something of the like?0 -
Could be high vacuum on the lines. When you bleed the pump, you're temporarily getting the airlock out, but then foaming re-occurs.0
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Where are you located?
If you have water in the feul, chances are you have had for some time. Usually by the time you start seeing those symptoms, the damage is well on the way.
First thing, find where it's coming from and make appropriate repairs.
Second, keep running additives for a couple fill ups.
Third, install a spin on oil filter with a vacuum Guage right at the appliance. The vacuum Guage will tell you when the filter gets clogged or if the line has a blockage.
Fourth, remove cover from oil pump and clean or replace strainer.
Fifth, flush oil line using the bleeder on the pump, run about a gallon through.
Sixth, replace nozzle and electrodes if necessary.
That will solve water problems.0 -
@Harvey Ramer is correct, of course -- but what he doesn't say is that all that is best left to a tech. who really knows oil burners. Unless you do. The learning curve is pretty steep.
What it is not, though is it is not a problem which requires replacement of the furnace -- just proper maintenance of the oil tank and the burner and the piping. A much simpler and cheaper job -- although possibly less profitable to the fellow who tried to sell you a new one...Br. Jamie, osb
Building superintendent/caretaker, 7200 sq. ft. historic house museum with dependencies in New England0 -
Thank you guys for the quick responses. I'm going to call a third, different company in the morning.
I'm not very familiar with it at all. Im very mechanical inclined, but I do know when I'm beyond my comfort zone. I have a friend that used to do hvac, so he walked me through the basic drain some fuel from the tank, change the filter, bleed the line, check the cad, etc. but I'm not going beyond that.0 -
One thing missed most often ( unless its a Webster)when theres a fuel restriction is the pump strainer... I had a problem lock out .. mostly at nights when the burner ran the most.. changed the strainer problem solved0
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Where would the strainer be located, between the filter and the nozzle?
Is that something that I can clean, or has to be replaced?0 -
Are you actually getting water out of anywhere? If not, then it is obviously not a water problem at least.
I am kind of leaning toward a slipping fuel pump coupler, possibly even a partially clogged nozzle.
Second thought: Does the burner run smooth when it does light off. And when it does light off, is it a smooth light off or rough?
If you open up the inspection hole and start it, does it light ok? (IF YOU TRY THIS, DO NOT PUT YOUR FACE IN FRONT OF THE HOLE. possible backdraft if heat exchanger is blocked).
Rick0 -
Yes it runs great when it runs, then just dies. And I do not think I have an inspection hole, I have a hole with a clear "bolt" in it0
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As Rick suggested. It could be the drive coupler. They can be a pita sometimes. Also, bad bearings on the motor will allow it to run for a while and then lock up. Usually by the time you are aware of a problem, the thermal switch on the motor has reset and the bearing loosened up so that it starts right up.0
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Harvey, is that something I can check? Or is that a pro job?
So I just pulled the strainer filter on the pump, and the nozzle. The filter is clean, the nozzle also doesn't look to bad. It has s little blackish residue on the outside but that's about it.
Running down to the store now, I'll hopefully have good news in an hour or so0 -
So basically you need to track the current draw of the motor to determine bad bearings.
Cut the power to the appliance. Put a quality amp meter on one of the motor leads. Turn the thermostat up to 80 for a long run time. Turn on the power to the appliance. Jot down the current draw of the motor as soon as the inrush current has dropped. Observe the motor for 20-30 min. and see if the current draw increases. If it does or if the motor becomes to hot to touch, the bearings are likely shot and the motor should be repaired or replaced.0 -
Better yet, hire someone who really knows their stuff and let them fixya.0
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The tank sits outside, above the furnace.
Well I didn't want to jinx myself and post to soon, but I changed the nozzle and pump strainer, and knock on wood everything seems to be back to normal.
Thank you for all of your help!!0
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