Boiler repipe Neptune NJ

EzzyT

Home owner asked if we could repipe the 20 year old Weil McLain EG-40 boiler verses replacing it.
We repiped it with a 3" drop header with 2" steam rated ball valves on the single main and return along with the skim port valve.
Also upgraded the main venting with 4-Gotton #2s.
This boiler was neglected and really muddy and dirty inside.
Added a 0-3 psi gauge as home owner requested and installed a metered automatic water feeder.
Thanks Dave LaBar for the referral.

Fred

Looks Great Ezzy! Boiler skins, not so much

EzzyT

Thanks Fred, yeah jacket isn't in the greatest shape but the cast sections are in pretty good shape though

ChrisJ

Throw a steamaster tablet in it and call it good.

EzzyT

We did that of course it's no brainer

Crow

Thanks again for getting this done the right way. The fun starts now in balancing the system. Every radiator is hot and not making too much noise.

EzzyT

No problem Chris.
Thanks Brian

Dave0176

Looks great Ez, also if the home owner wants you can get new boiler jacket panels.

tim smith

Great job on taking care of a customers needs. I see it way too much out there that sales trump servicing a customers "needs". Safety of course being the 1st priority. Not all customers need or want the golden egg, they are happy with a good boiled egg.

EzzyT

Thanks Dave. The panels were the lease of the issues that needed to be addressed.

EzzyT

@tim smith I think we all see that on jobs well at least I'm talking for myself that lack of maintenance is a key aspect and crucial part of keeping equipment and systems running smoothly and properly

MikeyP

@EzzyT - when repiping a boiler like that, how high is the risk of potentially cracking the cast iron sections of the boiler when removing the older risers?

Your pic will be the model of my repipe this summer. Thanks for posting.

EzzyT

As long as you have patience, finesse and the right tools you'll be ok. But one never knows what the state of quality that the boiler cast is until your taking things apart.

jonny88

Patience,finesse and most importantly the know how to do it.

MikeyP

jonny88 said:

Patience,finesse and most importantly the know how to do it.

Is it not just PB Blaster and a BFH??...I'm kidding of course.

My inquiry was to see how real of a possibility it is for seized risers to ultimately crack the sections. Cracking a fitting on the main is one thing but a whole new game if its in the boiler.

ChrisJ

I've never understood how or why things like PB Blaster would work on a threaded pipe joint.


If steam and water can't get past the sealer, why would that?

MikeyP

Not to jack this thread, (I can start another if necessary) but what is the standard protocol for removal assuming nothing out of the ordinary?

My thought would be a lubricating oil and light but steady pressure with a 24" pipe wrench. Without being able to isolate the boiler section with with a second wrench I am just curious as to the methods.

PS - I am a remodel carpenter so know my way around tools but am clearly not a pipefitter.

EzzyT

We use a torch to heat up the boiler tappings and use at least a 2' wrench to get the old pipe plugs out of the boiler tappings and if that doesn't work we cape them out. Capping means cut them out but without cutting the tapping threads

MikeyP

Thank you EzzyT. Appreciate the response.

Final question: Do you hit it with heat as a first step all of the time? Seems like a safe first move.

EzzyT

Yes we do.

Paul S_3

Nice job as always ezzy paul s

EzzyT

Thanks Paul

Steamhead

EzzyT, that's as good a job as any I've seen. Keep it up!

EzzyT

Thanks Frank, I sure will.

Chapstick

Figured I'd chime in. I repair gas and steam turbines for a living and I have had countless battles with huge stubborn bolts. I'm talking about nuts that weigh 30 lbs in some cases. Heat, heat, and more heat. And not map gas heat, oxyacetylene heat with a rosebud on that sucker. Heat it until it glows, let it cool and heat it again. Repeat three times and go for it. Ideally we use a company that comes in with 480v glow sticks and we heat them from the inside out. The studs have holes machined clean through them to insert the glow sticks. I've even seen induction heaters out there before. Truly amazing how well those work.

Anyhow, we use a magical fluid called kroil. It looks like fruit punch and smells like diesel. It comes in an orange can and it is bar none the best rust buster on earth. Really nasty stuff but boy does it work. Try that and give it some shots with a heavy hammer. Don't blast the damn thing though. Nice light shocks to help the kroil to work its way in there. If you come across it, buy it. You guys will love it.

Chapstick

Actually for something like a pipe plug a nice #2 brazing tip would be the ticket. More control so you don't cook the whole boiler.

JUGHNE

I have used PB for a few years, works good, smells bad. I saw an ad in a magazine for Kroil and ordered 2 cans. Seems to work better and certainly smells better. But repeated applications a few days apart with hammer tapping also seems to help.

hituw2x4

Awesome Job! I am from Neptune NJ.

EzzyT

Thanks