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Carlin EZ GAS
scatgo
Member Posts: 16
Replaced my oil burner with a Carlin EZ Gas conversion burner 3 years ago. The first year it worked great. the second year it locked out 3 times. Right now I am having big problems with it. The first time around it would cycle on and off. Come on flame would start and look good but it would shut down. It did this a whole night and the next morning the house was cold. The fix turned out to be turning off the main power switch for about fifteen minutes and turning it back on and everything seemed fine without having to replace any parts. The next two night it locked out but resting it by pressing the red button once got it going. I did try to get the Carlin 60200FR Primary control but they dont seem to make them any more. I was told the is a upgrade available. Were there known problems with the 60200FR? Of is it possable that I might need a new flame sensor rod on a three year old burner?
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Comments
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What is your location? There are some EZ Gas experts around who may be able to help you.
Let me try to do what I can from here:
What flash code was the unit making when it will not run? Sometimes it simply needs reset or has gone into another mode and a procedure must be followed to bring it back to normal.0 -
Something changed, draft, gas manifold pressure, good ground, gas air ratio.
Check micro amp, .8 MicroAmps is lock out, 1.5 and up is ideal
Gary0 -
I live in New York. Right now I will see the green light flash maybe two times before it stays on then it will give the red light when it trys to restart.0
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Anyone know how to test the flame rod? Gary Is .8 the minimum amps from the flame rod? If so how would one test for it?0
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What part of NY as we have several pros who could help you with your problem.
I do not have the EZ manual handy at this location so I can walk you through the control checkout later.0 -
The "red" light is on constant then you are in lockout. If the flame rod does not sense flame with in the trial for ignition time limit after the gas valve activation , lockout occurs. The control turns the "red" LED on constant and closes the alarm contact. Green LED is off.
To reset push in and hold reset button for one second then release.
LATCH UP -If the control locks out three times during a single call for heat LATCH-UP occurs. The control turns on both the "amber" and "red" LED's constant.
Do you have the book for the EZ Gas? If so the procedure for Latch up is located on either page 12, 13 or 14 depending on what manual you have.
If you need the start up operation check out sheet e-mail me at gastc@cox.net and I will send you a copy.
Microamps can be checked by using a special adapter provided by Carlin which plugs into the Carlin 60200FR control. Or you can simply detach the wire from the flame rod set your multimeter to read microamps and connect the meter in series with the detached wire and fire up the equipment. Normal reading I have found on the EZ is around 3 to 5 microamps.0 -
Thanks for the help people. Something strange is going on. I do have the book and after Tim mentioned the LED codes I have been checking things out. Strange thing is it dont seem to latch out. I had a blinking red light and hit the red button more than three time and no latch out. And after Gary mentioned something may have changed I did make some ajustments to the air ban and it helps. The air band ajustment I made will keep it going where as it would not stay on at all before but now its a matter of weather or not it will go back on when there is a call for heat . Ill keep you informed and any suggestions to help me out will be greatly appreciated.
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Yes there is an adapter to test MicroAmps.
Is this nat or lp? Do you know the gas pressure when it's running? (Aka manifold pressure)
You may have sucked some crud and maybe the fan is gooped up, altering the air/fuel. Do you have dusty buildup at the air band?
Yes don't hurt yourself and others in the home, you want a safe running gas burner. Whenever I adjust gas burners I have my combustion analyzer.
Gary1 -
I do plan on having that done as soon as I get past this problem.0
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That actually could solve your problem. Testing is not to just get a bunch of readings the combustion analyzer in the hands of an expert can solve your problem. You making adjustments without knowing what you are doing can create an issue that would be high levels of Carbon Monoxide and someone gets hurt or worse yet gets killed.
I had a blinking red light and hit the red button more than three time and no latch out.
The instructions say nothing about hitting the "red" button three times when you have LATCH-UP. You better read those directions again.
What is the inlet and outlet gas pressure on this unit and which air gate and burner set up do you have and what is the input and orifice size?
You need a professional - what is your location in New York city or state?
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Your right.If you hit the button once after a lockout and the burner locks out three time during a single call for heat it will latch up.0
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I am on Long Island.0
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Inlet pressure is 7 WC and outlet is 3 WC. Orifice is 3/16. The Single slot air bad should be set at 5 % but it runs at 30%. At 5% it has a very short blue flame.0
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Diffuser is B.0
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The various diffusers give different flame patterns so the burner will run well in different units. What boiler is yours installed in?All Steamed Up, Inc.
Towson, MD, USA
Steam, Vapor & Hot-Water Heating Specialists
Oil & Gas Burner Service
Consulting0 -
Maybe jack it to 3.5, per specs.you have a cheap dial or a Magnetic or good digital manometer? Don't use the cheap dial types.
get an analyzer first, or get someone that is familiar with set up.0 -
I'm in New Jersey..Carlin says it needs a Combustion Analyzer to adjust the air gas mixture at gun as it keeps locking out.0
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@EzzyTAthana said:I'm in New Jersey..Carlin says it needs a Combustion Analyzer to adjust the air gas mixture at gun as it keeps locking out.
@JohnNYSingle pipe quasi-vapor system. Typical operating pressure 0.14 - 0.43 oz. EcoSteam ES-20 Advanced Control for Residential Steam boilers. Rectorseal Steamaster water treatment0
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