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Steam vent "coughing?"

Hi all, new to this forum, but looking to the experts for some help.

Some background on the problem, as I'm sure that's rather important. We purchased our home last November, and were presented with a rushing of air from the baseboard in our living room each time the boiler initially cycles, almost sounds as if the vent is coughing. To further describe the noise, it sounds like a whoosh sound and it's loud and violent enough that you can feel it vibrating on the couch that is near it. The heating system is a one-pipe system and has 3 cast iron radiators on the second floor, with 2 cast iron radiators on the first floor as well as this single baseboard that's giving the issue. The boiler is in the basement. I ultimately remedied the situation at one point when I realized that the valve on a radiator on the second floor was not open and we were free from the noise for the rest of the heating season.

The Peerless boiler that was originally in the home had expired a few weeks ago, and we have since replaced it with a new Peerless boiler. Everything was going well until last night when the same noise that we had last season came back.

Unfortunately, I'm a complete novice when it comes to steam heat, only learning what I've read in Dan's book and on the internet, and have no idea what this could possibly be. All of the other radiators in the house are getting hot, they are all pitched correctly(I was told by our plumber), and I have checked that all of the valves are completely open.

I was thinking with my limited knowledge that maybe the vent(s) needs replacing, but I was wondering if it could possibly be something more serious or if there's any other remedies that I could try to help prevent this.

Any information would be greatly appreciated. Hope everyone had a happy holiday.

Comments

  • BobC
    BobC Member Posts: 5,489
    Was that boiler skimmed? Did the installer put a skim port in?

    Installing a boiler introduces oils into the water and all of that oil has to removed for the system to work right. It takes hours to skim a boiler and it may have to be done several times. If you don't have a skim port have the installer install one and have him show you how to skim the boiler.

    Bob
    Smith G8-3 with EZ Gas @ 90,000 BTU, Single pipe steam
    Vaporstat with a 12oz cut-out and 4oz cut-in
    3PSI gauge
  • Abracadabra
    Abracadabra Member Posts: 1,948
    Pics of the boiler and all the near boiler piping? a wide angle shot from a couple of sides should do the trick.
  • joeschuck
    joeschuck Member Posts: 7
    Hi everyone. I apologize for the delay in responding, it has been a very rough few days with our heating system. I have enclosed a few pictures of the way the system was piped. I have a local steam expert telling us that this is not piped correct and that there is no return piping, which is causing all of our problems.

    Since I first posted, our radiators are no longer getting warm except for the small baseboard in the living room. There is now much more and louder slamming of pipes on the first floor radiators other than the baseboard, and the "coughing" of the baseboard is continuing.

    Attached are the pictures. We received a quote for the re-piping of the boiler to factory specs, and before we have it done I just want to see an outside opinion as to whether or not this is done correctly.

    It is a Peerless 34/35 series. I really appreciate any help again.




  • EzzyT
    EzzyT Member Posts: 1,308
    the boiler is piped incorrectly and copper is a big no-no on the steam side of the boiler and system piping
    E-Travis Mechanical LLC
    Etravismechanical@gmail.com
    201-887-8856
  • joeschuck
    joeschuck Member Posts: 7
    Ezzy thank you so much for your input. Could the piping be causing water to become trapped in the radiators?
  • EzzyT
    EzzyT Member Posts: 1,308
    Yes along with other factors. Like was any steam main venting upgraded done with install? But from those pictures its most likely that none of that was done.
    what the pressure set at on the pressuretrol cut in and cut out?
    E-Travis Mechanical LLC
    Etravismechanical@gmail.com
    201-887-8856
  • joeschuck
    joeschuck Member Posts: 7
    No vent upgrading was done as far as I'm aware, I'm pretty simple minded when it comes to this unfortunately, and if I'm knowledgeable enough to know what you're referencing, the same Gorton #1 is installed as the main vent. The pressuretrol is set to cut-in 0.5. No cut-out visible on the unit
  • Jamie Hall
    Jamie Hall Member Posts: 23,988
    It could indeed. Repiping the boiler is certainly a good place to start.

    While you're at it, check and double check the pitch of all the steam pipes; the type of system you have is more sensitive to that than some others (sorry about that -- it works just as well as anything when the pitches are right).

    Do you have any vents on the system, other than the ones on the radiators? There should be...
    Br. Jamie, osb
    Building superintendent/caretaker, 7200 sq. ft. historic house museum with dependencies in New England
  • joeschuck
    joeschuck Member Posts: 7
    Jamie, thank you for your input and response as well! The pitch on the main does not, to my eye, look like it is in the right direction. To be entirely honest, it looks nearly flat. The only other vent than the ones on the radiators is a Gorton #1 on the main.
  • BobC
    BobC Member Posts: 5,489
    The piping has to be redone and all the piping in the cellar has to be checked with a level to make sure water can drain back to the boiler.

    Does the water in the sight glass bounce up and down a lot when the boiler is making steam?

    If you take the cover off the pressurerol the while wheel inside should be set to 1; dose the pressure gauge read anything when the boilers making steam?

    Bob
    Smith G8-3 with EZ Gas @ 90,000 BTU, Single pipe steam
    Vaporstat with a 12oz cut-out and 4oz cut-in
    3PSI gauge
  • joeschuck
    joeschuck Member Posts: 7
    Hi Bob, the return pipe, the thin(ner) pipe that's apparently improperly piped is quite pitched down towards the boiler.

    Prior to the new boiler being installed, I had seen the water in the sight glass bounce a bit when the boiler was cycling. Now, I don't notice any bouncing when the boiler is working.
  • Jamie Hall
    Jamie Hall Member Posts: 23,988
    Somehow a good bit of my post vanished. I do love computers. What I wanted to add was -- particularly check that runout to the bathroom that seems to be hammering. There will be a lot of condensate in that pipe right on start up, and it will try to hang at the bottom elbow. If the pitch of the horizontal section isn't up to par, that can hammer like mad. Don't just look at it end to end -- use a chalk line of something and check for sags. One wouldn't think an iron pipe could sag, but believe me, they do.
    Br. Jamie, osb
    Building superintendent/caretaker, 7200 sq. ft. historic house museum with dependencies in New England
  • BobC
    BobC Member Posts: 5,489
    If you look at the manual you will see the boiler is piped wrong, pay attention to the size pipes that should be used and note they specifically say threaded steel pipe - not copper.

    Make sure you go over all the piping in the cellar to make sure it's all pitched right.

    Bob
    Smith G8-3 with EZ Gas @ 90,000 BTU, Single pipe steam
    Vaporstat with a 12oz cut-out and 4oz cut-in
    3PSI gauge
  • joeschuck
    joeschuck Member Posts: 7
    Thanks a lot Bob. Much appreciated.
  • BurntFingers
    BurntFingers Member Posts: 38
    Looks like the pressuretrol is set high from what I could see in the pic. Good luck