HELP - NO Heat

Crow

I have a one pipe steam system. The boiler is over full (not sure how it happened, but it did). The boiler drain spigot is stuck. I have tried everything to get it open and drain the water. Is there another way to remove the water? Are there anyone professionals in the Monmouth county area that can help? I've called multiple steam experts and they all said that they only do commercial.

JohnNY

Open the relief valve into a bucket to bring the water level down. It won't be enough to see in the vertical gauge glass tube, but it's usually enough to allow the boiler to turn back on.
I do mechanical consulting work in Monmouth County but not repairs and maintenance yet.
www.72fLLC.com

nicholas bonham-carter

Often a stuck valve can be freed up by loosening the packing nut, just below the valve handle.
When you get a pro in there, change that valve to a full port ball valve which will not stick in the future.
Is the boiler also making hot water? If so, there may be a leaking coil in the boiler.
During this operation, get him to clean the pigtail under the pressuretrol--NBC

Crow

Johnny, the relief valve, I'm assuming, is the verticle one attached to the wet return right before it gets back to the boiler, correct? If so, no water comes out of that when I open it. I found that strange.

Nick, the boiler was producing heat when it kicked on in October. That's when I found the overfill problem. When the water heated up it started to spit out of the, why I'm guessing is the overflow valve that is about 2/3rds the way up the wet return. Turned the boiler off and haven't turned it back on since. I don't think water is leaking through the burner because they is none coming outbid whatever overflow valve is up there. I could be wrong though. But when I open the full valve water immediately leaks from that overflow valve.

The drain valve is completely stuck. Packing but is off. I used a pipe wrench to try and turn the valve from the valve stem - valve stem is no longer. Tried drilling and using a broken bolt remover to no avail.

Abracadabra

Can't replace the valve?

Crow

That's what I want to do but I need to drain the water first, correct?

EzzyT

Prep the new drain with Teflon tape get a bucket ready to catch any water and make a quick swap. You'll get some water pissing out just be quick with swapping the valve

Crow

Sounds like a plan. Just pipe wrench the crap out of it to get it off? Any idea what size the thread is on the valve? Is it standard or do they range?

I can't see passed the exterior cover and it is on the side where all the gauges and wiring is to tell the size.

Crow

Sounds like a plan. Just pipe wrench the crap out of it to get it off? Any idea what size the thread is on the valve? Is it standard or do they range?

I can't see passed the exterior cover and it is on the side where all the gauges and wiring is to tell the size.

Crow

Pictures...

Crow

Thanks for all the help guys. Hoping to do this tonight. Will a plumbing supply house have this in stock, or Home Depot, or Granger?

Shane_2

Almost certain that is a Weil-McClain EG series based on color and location of OP. That is a longer shank boiler drain. Would suggest a 3/4" X 2 1/2" brass nipple with 3/4" IPS ball valve, and a 3/4" male X hose adapter. All should be in stock at any plumbing supply house or home center.

Crow

Thanks again. I'm going to try a metal drill bit into the old drain valve and see if I can drain that way, any objection to this? My concern is that since the connection is inside the sheet metal housing and it looks like it is insulated that I should try to minimize how much water gets in there. Or should I not bother? Also not looking entirely forward to getting soaked.

Shane. I'll let you know how close you are to the series number of my WM when I get home.

Shane_2

I would suggest NOT trying to drill it without having a new valve in hand.

Crow

Will definitely have a new valve in hand. Just worried about getting water on the inside of the cover and the insulation.

BobC

Take the cover and insulation off.

Bob

Crow

Would have to remove pressuretrol, sight glass, low water cut off, autofil, and the wet return. I'll try to drill out the valve first. Is there any reason not to drain it and refill it?

lchmb

a little water shouldnt hurt the jacket to much...could always try and remove the site glass (shut if off of course) and the start backing the valve out til it's upside down...drain off the water through there..then you wont be completely full at least..I would replace the boiler drain though..

Crow

Was wondering if I could do it through the sight glass and then just worry about changing the drain when it's not freezing out. Wasn't entirely sure how it came out though. When you say shut it off, I'm assuming you mean the boiler correct? And then back out the top or bottom valve of the sight glass? What will turn upside down? Sorry.m, don't really know much about the sight glass.

Crow

@shane so you would go from the boiler, to the 2-1/2" nipple, to the ball valve, to the hose x adapter. That is to avoid usong a coupler between the standard boiler drain valve and the nipple, correct?

Crow

Please tell my why water is not coming out yet. Got a nice sized home in there

Crow

Ok, so apparently no water. Why why I turn the fill valve on does the water back up to the over flow valve way up the wet return?

Crow

Pretty old, think the last pro I had out said 25 years. New development, I opened up the sight glass. Now water in it. Nothing comes out when I open the valves. I thought the thin was full

Crow

Is it possible there is enough to sediment to clog the return? What are they 3" pipe?

JUGHNE

No water comes out of the hole you drilled because the valve is probably still off. The opening where the valve goes is probably plugged anyway. What I would do is if the sight glass is removed to unscrew the top bonnet nut under the handle on the top of the sight glass then unscrew the valve until all the guts come out.
Rinse the guts off and be ready to put them back in quickly. Poke a wire into where the guts came out, have a bucket ready.
If nothing comes out then do the same with the bottom sight glass valve. Maybe things will come out then. Once you get that flowing you can put the guts back in and drain bucket by bucket or let it go to the floor drain if you have one. Then you have the water down that far. Then put it back together after cleaning the entire sight glass assembly. Then clean the pigtail that the pressure control is mounted on top of. Judging from everything else it will need it unless your service man did that.
Now you could fill the boiler and fire if you want. Deal with the boiler drain on a warmer day if you wish. After all you could snap off the old boiler drain tonight and have a bad day.

Please let us know the outcome.

Fred

You said it was over filled. You need to make sure you manually shut off the Auto water feed until you have a chance to make sure water isn't leaking past that water feed valve. Once you get the drain valve replaced, and the water back to a normal level, you can manually feed water, as necessary, until the auto feed is checked out.

Crow

So here is the boiler drain removed. It is bone dry. Not sure what else I can do. Fitting to take the wet return coupler off, maybe? Is tha crazy?

Crow

@Jstar, Joe, any ideas?

JUGHNE

Did you poke a long screwdriver into that opening? Open your water fill valve and flush some out of the boiler. Send a picture of where your water fill pipe is connected to the boiler and the pipes around it.

JUGHNE

Send a picture of the overflow valve that the water is coming out of. I suspect it might be a air vent and possibly your return may be plugged and water fill backs up return. Pictures please.

BobC

Now that the valve has been removed,snake out that port and feed some water into the boiler that will make a giant mess but you can't make an omelet without breaking some eggs.

Once the return has been snaked out and will drain I would use a wand and clean that boiler out. Then you will probably have to remove the sight glass fittings and clean those out.

Once all that is done, the drain has to be replaced, the sight glass valves put back on and the boiler has to be filled with water and brought up to steam.

Bob

Crow

I stuck a screw driver in there. Goes about 5" in and hits what feels like solid metal. First picture, the vertical pipe on the right is the supply. Goes into the 90 then onto the T and then down into the return pipe.

As far as where the leak is coming from. I'm not entirely sure. The second picture shows the only vents, my 2 main vents. Joe put these in last year, no water coming from them. The water comes out somewhere in the white insulate part of the return. Takes a few seconds to get to the bottom and then drips from the bottom.

JUGHNE

In the first picture, I would remove the insulation around that tee and fitting up to the boiler. That tee obviously has had some leakage around it. That hose bib type valve may be the leak. If it is just leaking out the valve maybe a hose cap with washer will stop it for a while. But somewhere in there is a leak. Strip the insulation and post a picture with the water turned on, don't get your phone wet!

Abracadabra

Are you saying that the gauge glass shows full/overfilled and there's no water at the boiler drain?

Are you sure the stopcocks on the gauge glass are both open and clear?

Does the boiler actually fire with the boiler drain off and no water in that section? (If you do try firing the boiler, don't leave it firing for more than a few seconds)

JUGHNE

I think the gauge glass water has been captured by plugged sight glass valves..........Hey Crow your boiler should not fire without a good water level in it!! if it does then you have some other real issues!!!!

Crow

Jughne, with water turned on that t valve and the pipe around it is bone dry. The last time it fired up In October the water boiled and steam and water came out from the same spot on he return pipe. Right now all gas and electric are off to the boiler. Read steps on turning it all back on and firing up the pilot but instructions say something about two different types of vent dampers. Not sure which one I have (missing the cover) and not sure how to open it.

Crow

Damper pic

Crow

That's where the gauge glass was. Guessing the return must be clogged. Any advice on how to go about unclogging that? Tried to get the coupler (2nd picture) off, but I don't seem to have the strength to do it. If I take the low water cut off out I might get more leverage on it as I can pull instead of push against it. But I might save that good time for tomorrow.

Crow

Coupler? Im hoping

Abracadabra

Your boiler has no water.

1. manually fill boiler until water comes out the drain tapping.
   
2. install the new drain valve.
   
3. fill boiler until the water comes out the bottom gauge glass stopcock tapping.
   
4. reinstall the gauge glass after cleaning the glass and ensuring the stopcocks are clean.
   
5. fill water to halfway in the glass.
   
6. start boiler.
   

Crow

I get the part that my boiler has no water. What I don't get is why, when I turn on the supply valve, doesn't the water go into the boiler - It just comes out somewhere along the wet return.