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Weil McLain Gold GV Series 4 Boiler STARTING ERRATIC

VivaldiVivaldi Posts: 12Member
I have a 2002 model boiler as above. Last year the Bypass pump went out. I replaced the cartridges in both the Bypass and the Circulator pumps. Once this year, the boiler wouldn't start overnight. I turned off Power for a while and when I powered back up it started.

The Ignitor was replaced 2 years ago. This year I replaced the expansion tank, the temperature/pressure gauge and the boiler relief valve.

In watching the 5 Status Lights on the control module (POWER / TSTAT CIRC / LIMIT / PRESS SWITCH / FLAME):
- there is never a constant flashing light
- The Power light is on, and the Tstat Circ light goes on when heat is called for
- The Limit light goes on

BUT, I notice that the blower DOES NOT go on when there is a call for heat.

What happens is that after the Limit light goes on, the blower kicks in, but usually for a short time of maybe 1 - 3 sec., then the blower goes off and the flame doesn't light. During the short time the blower is on the Press Switch lightalso goes on. Sometimes this just keeps repeating.

Then finally, the Blower stays on and the press Switch light stays on, and then shortly afterward Flame light goes on and the burner licks on.

I'm wondering, why doesn't the Blower go on immediately when there is a call for heat? And, if it would stay on, would the Press Switch light stay on and the Flame start up on the first try?

Also, are there any common parts - other than the ones I stated above - which typically go bad. I would either replace them, or have a new spare on hand.

I've read posts here, and have a lot of ideas, but no conclusion on what my problem is.

Any ideas would be appreciated. SO, thanks ahead of time.

Comments

  • Tim McElwainTim McElwain Posts: 4,281Member
    What number United Technology Integrated Boiler Control do you have is it a 1013-200?

    It sounds like the internal relay inside the IBC is not pulling in all the time. This if so would require replacing that control.

    Check and make sure all the voltages into and out of the control are correct.

    Do you have a copy of the Installation and operations manual?
  • VivaldiVivaldi Posts: 12Member
    Yes, it's a 1013-200 control. Would the entire control be replaced?

    Yes, I do have the manual. It has a wiring diagram.

    I have a multi-meter. Would it be a difficult job to check all the voltages?
  • VivaldiVivaldi Posts: 12Member
    I found the module at 2 supply houses. Both are made by Auto Ignition Sustems.

    One is a Weil McLain. The other has the Auto Ignition Systems label, for use with a Norton 271 ignitor, which is what mine is. Would the ASI be OK as a replacement?
  • Tim McElwainTim McElwain Posts: 4,281Member
    I would stick with the United Tech 1013-200 not any replacements.

    Yes I would check the voltages (120 volts) at the section on Troubleshooting - control module. You should have a steady 120 volts from the blower connection all the time there is a call for heat. Also check 24 volts at the nine pin block.

    I would also check the pressure switch troubleshooting in the I and O manual on troubleshooting the pressure switch.

    Do you know how to check microamps?
  • VivaldiVivaldi Posts: 12Member
    Thanks, Tim, for taking the time to respond.

    The control module I mentioned is made by UT Electronic Controls. It doesn't have the added Weil McLain name on it.

    I have the Control Module Troubleshooting and will check voltages. I assume that I pull off the plugs and check the module.

    I checked Air Pressure Troubleshooting items, but I don't have a manometer to check the Switch, and can't verify correct blower motor rpm.

    What struck me was the blower not operating when there is a call for heat, but then it runs OK when it finally starts burning.
  • Tim McElwainTim McElwain Posts: 4,281Member
    Actually check the voltage on the plugs with them plugged in from the backside, a paper clip help in place with an alligator clip is a great way to test, use just one lead and ground the other lead on 120 volts and place other lead on "C" terminal on the 24 volt transformer when checking 24 volts.
  • VivaldiVivaldi Posts: 12Member
    OK, thanks again, Tim.

    I'm going to leave it alone for a few days as long as it continues to work. When I start checking things it starts to fail.

    I will replace the control module when that comes next week.

    I also plan to replace the air pressure switch, transformer, block limit switch and temp sensor - all for a cost of $100, in case any are bad. And those that are good will be spares.
  • VivaldiVivaldi Posts: 12Member
    I have replaced the control module, air pressure switch, 24 v transformer, boiler limit switch and system circulator pump cartridge. The boiler seems to be operating properly. Last October, due to a full expansion tank, it released water and steam. Could the steam affect the control module? Thanks for all your help, especially Tim McElwain!
  • Tim McElwainTim McElwain Posts: 4,281Member
    Yes electronics and steam and water do not get along very well!
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