Hot Water Boiler Issues - Thermostat and Air Vent?

micahmc

I just purchased my first home for my family - located in Andover, MN - built in 1967. I was excited to find a home with a boiler for heat (baseboard hot water) vs the traditional forced air in this community. I moved from Chicago where I learned the art of steam heat so hot water is more foreign to me.

The copper pipes seems to make some extra loud "gurgling" and banging noises, making me think of the need to bleed the pipes a little. This didn't seem to do anything. I then checked out the boiler (Federal Boiler, made in 1961 I think). Two zones - one for the basement and one for the main floor. I think there's a float-type air air vent that looks rusted out?

Question 1: Should I replace that vent? If so, with the same one or something different? (If different, then what?)

Question 2: I DO also have air conditioning (SpacePak in the attic). Can I combine the wires from my old mercury thermostats into one thermostat (like Honeywell's RTH9580)? Both the boiler and A/C thermostat are right next to each other as it is. If I could combine the two into a single thermostat that would be sweet (and time/money-saving).

Question 3: Recommendations for a local MN heating expert in the north part of the Twin Cities?

Thanks for any input you might have. Pictures at this link: https://goo.gl/photos/V2TLA6SfFiuCcnpj7

nicholas bonham-carter

Ask at the local supply house for the names of any local hydronics experts, and they should know which of their customers are on the ball.
There are some excellent books available here which would fill any gaps of hot-water information for you.
Do a search here for any posts relating to "Minneapolis", or "Minnesota", as I am sure we have helped people from your location.--NBC

Rich_49

Try Aune Plumbing and Heating in Zimmerman , Eric can take care of whatever your needs are or will steer you to someone capable .

http://auneplumbing.com/

micahmc

Thanks for the recommendations. Any thoughts on the first two questions based on the photos I shared?

kcopp

Yes replace the vent... It is plugged solid and prob the reason you hear sloshing. (No way for any air in the system to get out) Water pressure needs to go up if that gauge is correct. I would keep the t stats separate.

micahmc

Thanks kcopp. I ordered a Taco 400-4 float air vent on Amazon yesteday so we'll see how that works out.
How much higher do you recommend water pressure to go? With steam heat I was always lowering the pressure
I'm going to order some of Dan's hydronic books (along with his new book) this week so hopefully that will shed some additional light as well.

Thanks again.

kcopp

Personally I like running my systems on the higher side 18 psi. This way it drives the air bubbles back into solution....

unclejohn

I would also get a new backflow pressure reducing valve before you drain and replace the air vent. Chances are that the one you have is also blocked up and you won't be able to refill the boiler. If you get a tstat that has both "rc & rh ": terminals you can combine the two stats into one. You have to keep the transformers separate.

micahmc

thanks kcopp and unclejohn. This info really really helps me out. I'm looking forward to replacing some parts and keeping this boiler running for as long as I can!

John Mills_5

2 wire zone valves and the A/C can be tied together on a stat that allows it, will have RC and RH terminals.

JUGHNE

We have learned from other postings on this site, that if you want a "C"...common wire which will give you the full 24 volts to the T-stat to preserve batteries, then that "C" connection must come from the AC equipment transformer. Not the heating equipment transformer.

For some T-stats in order to maintain the backlight for use, then a common wire is needed. (Worth the trouble IMO if at all possible.) A dead battery will keep the equipment off, a common wire helps prevent this situation by providing less reliance upon the battery itself.

micahmc

Thanks for that tip as well. I never thought about that before. I really do appreciate that!

micahmc

Thanks all for your help. Eric Aune did a fantastic job on the boiler yesterday. He continued to educate me on the system, replaced the filltrol device (which was in the closed position, preventing any fresh water from entering the system for at least the several months I've owned the home), and replaced the pressure gauge as well.
The final thing I need to do is hook up my new t-stat from the old a/c (SpacePak in the attic) and boiler t-stats. Problem is - I can't figure out which wires go where in the new t-stat. Any quick tips? I understand I still need a c-wire (looks like that spare white wire in the photos might work) from the AC transformer. If I can get this hooked up by Christmas my energy company will give me a sweet rebate ($150!).
Thanks for any additional help/advice on wire switching

nicholas bonham-carter

We just installed a Honeywell Visionpro 8000 on a system with separated boiler and A/C. The C wire came from the A/C, as there were only 2 wires from the boiler. The jumper was removed for control of the A/C. R is for heat, and Rc for cooling, and the boiler switching was handled by W.
As there are 2 separate transformers involved, I would get Eric Aune back in to make sure the polarities of the separate 24-volt lines are not fighting with each other inside your new thermostat.
What model thermostat is that, and does it have a setting for steam in the setup? Presumably the rebate is there because it will reduce energy consumption, and how will it do that?--NBC

micahmc

Thanks for the info. The model is a Honeywell RTH9580WF. I'm not sure it has a setup for steam but this is a hot water boiler (not steam as I ultimately personally prefer)
The rebate is there to encourage reducing energy consumption (as you mentioned) and also reducing old mercury t-stats, though there is an added rebate of giving access to my local energy company to control the AC during peak hours (which I'm opting out - at least to start with).
I'm wondering if I can at least get the t-stat swapped with the AC until Eric can return next week. Any idea what the blue wire does and where it should go? I'm assuming the red from the old AC stat should go into the "Rc" port in the new stat.

nicholas bonham-carter

Take the boiler red and white wires, and put them on r and w.
The thermostat will only run on batteries, until Eric returns to hook up the A/C wires, including C.
When C from the A/C is connected, the thermostat will be self power from the 24 volts.--NBC

micahmc

Thanks NBC. So to recap: boiler red should go into the "R"; boiler white should go into W; A/C Y should go into Y, A/C red into Rc?; A/C green into G? If that's true, could I use the A/C green as the common "C" until I have a true common?