Tappings or fittings

j a_2

Ya got to be kidding, can't the manufactures of either boilers or fittings spend a little more time on quality control

sonofaplumber

ain't that awful. I love it when you bury pipe into a 'CHINA' fitting until your making more threads, and it still hasn't hardened up!

Dave0176

I'm only getting "domestic " pipe and nipples now, was using domestic fittings from the beginning, but an now all domestic.

Ward fittings look real nice and are available almost anywhere. I've used Anvil too, a little rougher looking but a good fitting. IMO Anvil makes the best unions.

JUGHNE

Does any one reuse NG pipe on a change out?

EzzyT

Domestic all way, I cant tell you how many times Ive had issues with imported pipe and fittings.
I prefer to replace the gas piping when im replacing the boiler. most of the time the existing gas piping is a mess too almost as bad as the near boiler piping.

Steamhead

JUGHNE said:

Does any one reuse NG pipe on a change out?

The short answer is, it depends. On the size, condition etc.

j a_2

Well bottom line those are ward fittings and American made boiler....I hope both companies continue to pat themselves on the back at the company trips and golf outings for there great profits...They cut back on quality control, because it effects there bottom line. Jmo

hot_rod

I think the tapping into the boiler is off a bit. Not so easy to run a tap into cast iron perfectly plumb. The longer the nipple into the tapping the more noticeable the error.

Water heaters are the same way, especially the side taps.

ChrisJ

Is that cardboard I see protecting the new appliance from oily sharp fittings, tools etc?

This is part of the reason I gave in and bought a 65R-TC. I'm a homeowner, I shouldn't need a $900 manual threader but apparently, if you're going to try and pipe radiators to an existing main you have no choice. Between fittings being threaded slightly different and everyone threading pipes slightly different I found it near impossible to get things to lineup unless I did it my self. Doing it my self, sometimes I need to try a second time but 9 times out of 10 I nail it. For most piping, like running my NG I had no issues with stuff being a little off from places threading it for me, but for anything needing to lineup with an existing pipe and a hole in the floor forget it.

A local place near me threads pipe so it starts to bind a little on the last thread! Doesn't matter what fitting you use, their threads are too loose. I even asked the guy last time I bought from him not to thread so deep because they're too loose. Got the same results and he told me to use wicking to makeup for it because it's my fitting's fault.

j a_2

I am sure you already know because you seem very involved...A screwd fitting should go in 3.5 to 4 turns by hand. Any more or less can cause issues...II don't think it's to much to ask manufactures to get it right...I was pissed at that boiler to see the offset... Btjm

ChrisJ

j a said:

I am sure you already know because you seem very involved...A screwd fitting should go in 3.5 to 4 turns by hand. Any more or less can cause issues...II don't think it's to much to ask manufactures to get it right...I was pissed at that boiler to see the offset... Btjm

It's not too much to ask but apparently it's not going to happen.
I learned the hard way very early on no one seems to follow the actual rules to NPT.

http://www.piping-designer.com/National_Pipe_Thread

For a 2" NPT fitting in a perfect world you should get 5 hand turns and 3 wrench turns.

This is another reason I'll never use a Chinese fitting again. Nothing like having it screw on 1 turn or 2 turns by hand and then bind up quick.

ChrisJ

Just curious, why do some of the nipples have only PTFE tape and others only dope? I generally do 3 wraps of PTFE tape and a little dope on top to help lubricate it. If it's a really good thread and fitting I'll often just use dope.

j a_2

I have a manual/book given to me many years ago...the U S Navy shipbuildig and pipe fitting book/manual...its awsome... I used the charts and info for many years...actually I have 2 copies

hot_rod

When I piped out of boiler connections with copper, I would heat and soften the tube near the boiler connection and bent it slightly to get it plumb from all directions.

Or start out with swing ells at the connection, if it is a side connection.

jonny88

I would beat that **** riser till something broke.I feel your pain.

bob_46

no no no, take a rose bud and put a red hot diamond on the side you want it to pull toward. How big of a diamond? now that will cost ya.

j a_2

Johnny 88 figured you would be on the same page...I was beyond pissed and expressed my thoughts to the manufactures... I am sure they could care less

j a_2

Hot rod this was a steam boiler...refer to the pic..copper is a no no and with steam we like high risers...There is no excuse for the poor quality of the manufactures...

hot_rod

j a said:

Hot rod this was a steam boiler...refer to the pic..copper is a no no and with steam we like high risers...There is no excuse for the poor quality of the manufactures...

Understood about the steam, and steel pipe. I was just sharing my method of dealing with off kilter tappings, when piping HW boilers in copper.
Sounds like bob uses similar method on steel pipe for tweaking.

j a_2

Yes there are a lot of great people working for the company's out here...its the company's that I don't like...there interested only in the bottom line...like I said they celebrate sales while we fix the crappy crap they produce...band new out of the crate...

RobG

Just start piping everything with 45's so it is easy to correct.