Proper piping

ogs

I have a 3/4" zone feeding a section of baseboard (16') but need some additional heat. I have a kickspace heater (1/2") and want to tie it into the existing line. I would like to do this right where the inlet to the baseboard is as both lines are right there. What would be the correct way to make these connections.

Zman

Assuming the 16" of baseboard is the only thing on the zone and you don't have 100's of feet of supply and return piping, it would be easiest to just tie it in piped in series. It will restrict the flow a bit but chances are it won't be an issue.
Post more details on your piping if you want to be sure.

ogs

Large space with a small usable wall. Total piping to and from equals no more then 100'. I assumed there would be a flow restriction and would really like to get 100% out of the two units. That would put me pretty close to my needs and be very satisfactory.

Zman

Your 16' of baseboard will put out about 8,000 BTU's. A typical kick space heater puts out between 5,000 and 10,000.
You just have to calculate this so you have enough flow for both units. Right now you only need about 1 gpm. With both piped you would need 2 to 3 gpm. The only way to know for sure is to run the numbers based on the piping layout and the circulator you have installed.

Steamhead

What I've done is to use a pair of 3/4"x1/2"x1/2" tees, with one set of 1/2" connections going to the kicker and the other as a 1/2" bypass around it. This will maintain flow in the zone while delivering as much flow as possible to the kicker.

ogs

Steamhead, should I add a valve on the bypass line or will I not need it.

ogs

Steamhead, skip my last reply. I realize now what I said

Steamhead

Good question. I generally don't use a bypass valve, because a) my systems Pump Away, and b) a full-size purge station at the end of the loop should do a fine job of getting the initial air out.

But if you can't purge it any other way, a full-port bypass valve may help.

ogs

Thanks Steamhead.