How do I clean the air filter on a B-W atmospheric WH?

Jells

Was having pilot trouble with this unit (m1xr403s10fbn4) and read that clogged filters can simulate a bad thermocouple. So I tried leaving the chamber unsealed, and the problem vanished. So how do I clean it so I can seal it again? the bottom of the heater appears to be entirely a flat piece of perforated metal. Where are the filters? I have the BW manual http://www.bradfordwhite.com/sites/default/files/product_literature/44943C.pdf and it gives nothing on how to clean this.

Or do I just not sweat it and don't worry about FVIR protection? Seems silly anyway.

RobG

I think that rather than a filter you might be talking about a blocked flue. You really should shut it down and call a pro.

Jells

The vent appears to be perfectly functional, as is the CO alarm.

Can you explain how a blocked flue is solved by letting in some air into the combustion chamber? It might burn, but the heater would not function properly.

In this thread:http://forum.heatinghelp.com/discussion/151290/gas-fired-water-heater-pilot-keeps-going-out it was said:

[quote]Out of 27 pilot light going out service calls on hot water heaters last year, 24 of them were caused by the (FVIR) air inlet screen on the hot water heater being clogged with dust and dirt. It's clogging mimics a failing thermo couple quite well.[/quote]

Shane_2

Look under flame arrester cleaning in the manual you linked. That is probably the filter you are referring to.

Is this the same water heater that you replaced the pilot assembly and gas valve on?

Jells

Shane said:

Look under flame arrester cleaning in the manual you linked. That is probably the filter you are referring to.

Is this the same water heater that you replaced the pilot assembly and gas valve on?

OK, thanks, that does help a little, but it's not perfectly clear. It says:

Clean ScreenLok® Flame Arrestor using stiff brush, compressed air and/or shop vacuum to remove any scale or other debris accumulation. Using a soft brush, clear jacket openings of any dirt, dust, restrictions or other obstructions.

So the "flame arrestor" is referring to the entire "floor plate" of the chamber? Most references to cleaning these filters I found said you need to blow them out, rather than suck whatever it is further in.

And no, this is a different heater. That one wouldn't stay lit even with the chamber open. It's fine now. This one would seem fine, but the pilot would go out after heating a tank of water.

RobG

@Hatterasguy , why would you disagree with my previous post? The OP is talking about bypassing a safety feature on the water heater. Is the FVIR not part of the intake/exhaust assembly? In my opinion it's time to call a pro. If you recommend leaving the cover off that is your prerogative. My insurance is exspensive enough as it is.

Jells

RobG said:

@Hatterasguy , why would you disagree with my previous post? The OP is talking about bypassing a safety feature on the water heater. Is the FVIR not part of the intake/exhaust assembly? In my opinion it's time to call a pro. If you recommend leaving the cover off that is your prerogative. My insurance is exspensive enough as it is.

Where is the post you are responding to? Anyway, I'm afraid you misunderstand something, leaving the cover off was diagnostic, rather than a long term solution. And anyway as I understand it, the FVIR is to prevent ignition of flammable external vapors, like from a leaking solvent can in a basement. This heater is in a dedicated utility closet on an upper floor. It's currently no more dangerous than the generations of WH that existed before the FVIR was mandated.