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Orifice Inlet valve installed on bottom of radiatior
JUGHNE
Member Posts: 11,254
I have a HO who wants to replace CI rad. The one he has in mind to use is a US Radiator Triton 5 column window radiator. 7 section, 20" high EDR of 38.5. This was used as a HW rad with 1" valves on bottom ports. The rest of the system is top to bottom connected rads. Any reason I could not use bottom to bottom connections on this one. This is a 2 pipe vapor system running at less than 12oz. with orifices in hand valves and no traps. A trap could be installed on new rad if needed. Thanks
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Comments
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I can't think of a good reason not to use it. Without the orifices, though, you would need a trap on the outlet. I'd make sure, too, that it was pitched slightly towards the trap, so that condensate couldn't get back into the steam inlet.Br. Jamie, osb
Building superintendent/caretaker, 7200 sq. ft. historic house museum with dependencies in New England0 -
That should work fine- go for it.All Steamed Up, Inc.
Towson, MD, USA
Steam, Vapor & Hot-Water Heating Specialists
Oil & Gas Burner Service
Consulting0 -
I'm also inclined to worry about condensate blocking the small supply orifice. Maybe you should add the trap (sans element) just for future use if the orifice causes issues.0
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Should this have a more exaggerated slope because of concentric connections on each end, 3/4 inlet & 1/2 outlet. There would be a fair amount of condensate standing in the bottom of rad. I believe someone posted this question of using eccentric on drain end and most said they never worried about that. Besides each end has a 1" spud and that is all I hope to have to remove. (Probably overthinking again) Thanks for the replies.
JStar, yes thanks I'll be putting a 1/2" Hoffman on that end as it is the simplest angle union ftg. Wish I had saved more of the old bodies.0 -
I wonder if you would be able to use the vent tapping for the supply. The smaller size wouldn't matter with the orifice installed. You could also make that opening as big as 1/2" on some column radiators.0
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That would be different. This would get a new riser from an 1 1/4" run out, so would 1/2" suffice? Then orifice in 1/2" valve union with bell coupling 1/2X 1/4 going into tapped out 1/8" air vent opening? Hopefully pictures attached. This is the 140 mile away job.
I see now that that 1/8" vent opening isn't going to tap any larger.
Is the round flat below the air vent solid CI as the rad is and a guess on how thick it might be. And how tappable for 1/2".0 -
Myself I think I'd go with piping it with the regular fittings, and using a trap. I have sometimes been accused of lacking imagination, however...Br. Jamie, osb
Building superintendent/caretaker, 7200 sq. ft. historic house museum with dependencies in New England0
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