2 zone boiler system zone 2 not heating
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It could be that the circulator is bad. It could also be air bound.Bob Boan
You can choose to do what you want, but you cannot choose the consequences.0 -
The system worked fine right up until today. It also was not making the noises it would if there was air in the line. Can it become air bound in a short period of time with no warning of air in the system?0
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What's controlling the pump? Do you know if there's power to it?
Can you post some pics showing the pump, boiler and controls?Bob Boan
You can choose to do what you want, but you cannot choose the consequences.0 -
Yes when I turn the thermostat to 80 I can hear te circ pump running then when I turn it down to 40 I do not hear the pump anymore. I have determined that I don't think the pump is inop. What is weird is the inlet to the pump is ice cold but the outlet is very hot, it seems that both sides of the pump should be relatively cool since they are on the return side of the boiler. I have pictures but I am unable to click on the attach a file as my iPhone will not allow me to.0
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Your circulator is not working. The motor may be turning, but the impeller is not. Impeller not working = water not flowing. Both sides of the pump should have a very similar temperature.maybel said:Yes when I turn the thermostat to 80 I can hear te circ pump running then when I turn it down to 40 I do not hear the pump anymore. I have determined that I don't think the pump is inop. What is weird is the inlet to the pump is ice cold but the outlet is very hot, it seems that both sides of the pump should be relatively cool since they are on the return side of the boiler. I have pictures but I am unable to click on the attach a file as my iPhone will not allow me to.
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If the zone not working, is a second floor zone, there may not be enough pressure in the system, according to the gauge visible on a photo. It reads around 10#.
Before you run out and buy a new circulator, be sure that you have enough water pressure in the system. Especially if the zone not working is a second floor zone.0 -
How do I check the pressure and what should the pressure be?0
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Above the burner is a round gauge. The top scale is the system temperature, the bottom one is the pressure. It looks like it is very low. I personally like them to be a minimum of 15# on a 2 story house.
The boiler feed water is turned off in a photo. It is the valve that the blue PEX pipe goes into. When you open the valve, you should hear water start running in to the system. The next object is the boiler fill/pressure reducing valve. If the boiler doesn't start adding water, lift up that lever device. Watch the pressure on the gauge. Let it get to 18# and put the lever down. If the water gets hot after the circulator and the pipe starts getting hot, the circulator may be OK. If you have radiators. vent them. If it doesn't start working, report back for further instructions. Someone will help you.1 -
Ok so I have around 16-18 psi according to the gauge on my boiler. I attempted to bleed any air off upstairs at the baseboards. I can not access the bleeder where the pipe goes up to the upstairs but when I cracked the bleeder at the end of the loop upstairs just before the line return to the basement nothing happened no air came out and no water came out. It sounds like the circ pump is operating but that doesn't mean the impellers are turning. Any thoughts?0
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The gauge was reading 16-18 pounds already I did not add any pressure to it. One thing to note the pipe it's self sounds as if there is water circulating through the pipe. If I shut off the circ pump the noise through out the pipes goes away and returns when I turn the circ pump back on. This could be just residual noise from the motor without the impeller turning. Can those pipes freeze under normal operating with 170 degree water running through them?0
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In multi zone system, it's quite easy for the pipes to freeze in an upper zone if they are in or near an exterior wall and the thermostat for that zone is set cooler than the one below. Heated air from the lower zone migrates to the upper one and causes that stat to remain satisfied long enough for the pipes to freeze.
Most every pro here has seen it happen.Bob Boan
You can choose to do what you want, but you cannot choose the consequences.2 -
What is the best way to figure out if I have frozen pipes? I don't want to take a heat gun to the pipes in worries that it will catch the dust and carpet on fire0
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I can hear what sounds like the circulator pump in the barns running at the very end of the loop upstairs but I can't hear that sound in any other room on that zone if that's any indication of anything0
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You need to find where they're frozen. Other than a hair dryer or heat gun, there's no advice I'd want to give to a HO for fear of property damage or personal injury.Bob Boan
You can choose to do what you want, but you cannot choose the consequences.0 -
Barns?
What are you heating? Is this a second floor zone?
If there are air vents on any working zone, open the vent and see how much force the water has coming out.
You very well might have frozen pipes.
The fact that the fill valve was off, and the pressure was down is a good way to freeze pipes. Especially if one turns the thermostats down to save/spend money when it is cold and freezing out.0 -
Yet another reason why on/off zone valves are suboptimal.Ironman said:In multi zone system, it's quite easy for the pipes to freeze in an upper zone if they are in or near an exterior wall and the thermostat for that zone is set cooler than the one below. Heated air from the lower zone migrates to the upper one and causes that stat to remain satisfied long enough for the pipes to freeze.
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Sorry not barns that was an auto correct on my iPhone my apologies. I have since fixed the issue. I replaced my circulator, filled what water I lost and all is working now. Fingers crossed it's been in the negatives every night in upstate NY for a week now. Thank everyone for all your help. I learned a ton from you all.0
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