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Beckett AF 2
Aaron_in_Maine
Member Posts: 315
in Oil Heating
Had a puzzler tonight. Peerless Direct vent boiler with a AF 2 burner. Get there burner is running constant but no flame delayed oil valve not open. Check for power no power to valve. Change primary to the new Honeywell with the display. Go to cycle and still won't put out oil display flashes back and forth between trial for ignition and burner off delay and runs for a while. Change out clean cut pump and cord to pump thinking there might be a short in it still nothing. Wire valve to burner motor and we have oil pressure. So I think my primary is bad out of the box get another out of the truck same thing. Bottom line left the oil valve wired to the burner motor and programmed it for no on delay and no off delay. I have to go back tomorrow what am I missing I am stumped.
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Comments
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IMO, "Clean Cut" pumps cluck like an old hen being chased by a horny rooster. If the oil valve goes, its a whole new pump. I needed to stock 2 kinds. With the standard pump, and an oil valve, you change the valve if needed. You bypass the bad valve, and if it them fires, you have lift-off until you get another valve.
I liked using my Mitco Qwik-Chek pump tester on burners when I serviced them. I had to get and make up a special rig to connect my tester because the pump valve was in the way. The oil valve goes in the pressure test port.
I personally thought that it was just another way for Suntec to get people to stop rebuilding their pumps.
Another bright idea to make the lives of some, more miserable than it already is.0 -
Polarity? Voltage? L1 and B1 reversed on primary control?To learn more about this professional, click here to visit their ad in Find A Contractor.0
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Aaron_in_ Maine is no slouch.Robert O'Brien said:Polarity? Voltage? L1 and B1 reversed on primary control?
"Clean Cut" pumps are a PITA. You can't just bypass them to decide of its just a bad valve. If the valve won't open, you can't bypass the pump to see if it is OK.
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How is the puff switch wired in?
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Went back today went straight down from top to bottom checking every wire to make sure nothing was loose. Started the burner then went back to the aquastat to put the cover on burner started freaking out ended up being the circuit board in aquastat had a break in it going to the B2 terminal.
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Like I said before. Aaron is no slouch.
Is that the Honeywell control that had all the issues with the board breaking around B-1 and B-2?0 -
I am not good with the model numbers. It was the older cold start aquastat with the dial.
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