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Ball Valves

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I'm seeking opinions on types of ball valves to use on steam lines to isolate F&T traps on either side for ease of servicing in the future. I was using Nibco two piece full port valves but was recommended by a colleague to use Apollo brand instead - although more expensive they are more trustworthy and have a longer life. Was looking for any comments regarding this. As a building manager I'm very concerning about future use working well as I will be making repairs. Im not a contractor who has to install materials based on budget of a homeowner but rather want what is best. Let me know your thoughts.

Comments

  • hot_rod
    hot_rod Member Posts: 22,201
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    Pretty much all of the valve manufacturers have good, better, best valve choices. L Most big names offer foreign or domestic. Look at the ratings on the valve first, then, thickness and weight of the valve and assembly details.

    I prefer best quality with the adjustable packing nut under the handle, stainless, not brass ball, and good port dimensions, quality forgings and machine work, etc.

    Cheap valves look and feel cheap regardless of the brand.

    Personally I feel some of the best brass components come from Italy.
    Bob "hot rod" Rohr
    trainer for Caleffi NA
    Living the hydronic dream
  • nicholas bonham-carter
    nicholas bonham-carter Member Posts: 8,578
    edited February 2015
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    What about gate valves, instead of ball valves?--NBC
    Mad Dog_2JohnNYIntplm.
  • Mad Dog_2
    Mad Dog_2 Member Posts: 7,049
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    Apollo (USA 🇺🇸  made line) is numero uno these Days.  That being said, I prefer gate valves on steam and steam condensate because the Teflon around the ball gets warped over a few years and they wind up not holding 100% . I like an American made Gate valve by Milwaukee, NIBCO et cetera.  If exercised regularly you'll get 100 years outta em. Apollo for All other systems.  Mad Dog 🐕 
  • retiredguy
    retiredguy Member Posts: 911
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    I agree with @Mad Dog 100%. Use top name, and best quality gate valves and never ball valves on steam. Ball valves on steam have a very short life. The higher the steam pressure the shorter the life.
    Mad Dog_2
  • seized123
    seized123 Member Posts: 297
    edited October 2023
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    I am not a pro but I just went through this thought process on another thread:
    https://forum.heatinghelp.com/discussion/193634/replumbing-solder-or-threads-for-ball-valves#latest
    where @Mad Dog_2 said the same thing he says here:
    Mad Dog_2 said:

    Apollo (USA 🇺🇸  made line) is numero uno these Days.

    Mad Dog says avoid the Apollo Internationals, and indeed a look at the price list:

    https://aalberts-ips.us/wp-content/uploads/2023/05/CPPL-0123-2.pdf

    shows that you get a 5-year warranty for the USA ones, and just a 2-year one for the internationals. How do you tell which is which? I found the supply house websites rarely tell you where these are made, but usually if you enlarge the picture you can see either "Made in USA" or "Apollo International" on the handle. Additionally, on that price list it will tell you if a series is international.

    To make your search easier if you go for Apollos, I found from the price list that the 77 series ball valves are made in USA, and the 94 series are international (but I'd still check the handle in case they change this or I missed something). The 77's are more expensive and harder to get, the 94's are cheaper and seem to be much more available. I found I would have to wait a month for 3/4" 77 ball valves at supplyhouse, but Home Depot of all places had them. The 1/2" was harder to find, so I settled for the international for that one, and will hope for the best. I did not however try the plumbing supply houses that will sell to non-pros, maybe the 77 line is more available there. BTW, I think the price on their price list is sometimes a lot higher than what you'll actually pay.
  • JohnNY
    JohnNY Member Posts: 3,231
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    I like gate valves for steam for their full-port, brass-on-brass seat.
    Contact John "JohnNY" Cataneo, NYC Master Plumber, Lic 1784
    Consulting & Troubleshooting
    Heating in NYC or NJ.
    Classes
    Intplm.Mad Dog_2
  • EBEBRATT-Ed
    EBEBRATT-Ed Member Posts: 15,572
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    Ball valve are fine for steam but you have to buy the correct ones. Apollo is the best ball valve in my opinion.

    Buy their valves with a carbon steel body. Some of their model are rated for high pressure steam which you don't need

    Gate valves are ok except that the cheap ones that abound in the market are useless You have to spend a lot to get a good gate valve
    Mad Dog_2
  • Mad Dog_2
    Mad Dog_2 Member Posts: 7,049
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    Don't get me wrong, The Apollo internationals are better than most, I just always try to use American made unless, I get stuck...then I'm using what they have.  A very select few supply house even the huge ones stock Apollo USA 🇺🇸.  I wouldn't be surprised in 5 years if you can't get them at all.  Mad Dog 🐕 
  • seized123
    seized123 Member Posts: 297
    edited October 2023
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    Yeah, @Mad Dog_2 I settled for the International just for one 1/2" because I was tired of shopping, but got USA for the 3/4" s. This discussion will be a big help in the future because there are so many manufacturers but now I know what to go for right off the bat.
    Mad Dog_2
  • Mad Dog_2
    Mad Dog_2 Member Posts: 7,049
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    Alot of the Chinese ball valves have gotten better. For a time 15-20 years ago, we were told "Liberty" was a great ball valve, Made in USA 🇺🇸.   Put them in for few years.  Alot of the packing nuts leaked and would snap off or just spin around & around.  Switched to Wolverine Brass USA for many years with great success. Very close in quality to Apollo and cheaper... Custom handles with your company name on them!  They just saddely, closed the South Carolina foundry.  Chinese made, but atleast they will be rebranding Apollo's , thank God.  Mad Dog 🐕 
  • FilthyTeaSnob
    FilthyTeaSnob Member Posts: 3
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    I would also like to add to the Apollo Conbraco valves comments. They did get bought by a Dutch company Aalberts in 2010 but it looks like they are still making the same valves in South Carolina. My application has been water and some oil but I was looking specifically for a bomb-proof FULL port valve solution (none of this "standard port" crap). To that end I have exclusively used their 77-140-10 series valves. They have a naming key that's rather long and confusing but the 77 series (not 77c or 77AR) is the no-expense-spared, we didn't cut corners on cost, valve I use. I personally try and get the 316 stainless ball, stem an d handle as it never rots (other than the plastic handle cover). As ridiculous as it may seem it's what I use for hose bibs! 77-144-10 Apollo valves for the hoses, and a 77-149-10 valve for the wharf hydrant.


  • seized123
    seized123 Member Posts: 297
    edited October 2023
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    To that end I have exclusively used their 77-140-10 series valves. They have a naming key that's rather long and confusing but the 77 series (not 77c or 77AR) is the no-expense-spared, we didn't cut corners on cost, valve I use. I personally try and get the 316 stainless ball, stem an d handle as it never rots (other than the plastic handle cover).
    This is very useful information, thanks.
    Mad Dog_2