The Case of the Vanishing Boiler Water- New Peerless 63-05

Fred

Never worked for me (long term) but if you try it, I'll be interested in your results!
EDITED to add "Long Term"

Fred

Hatterasguy said:

I've sealed leaks on HW tankless coils (60 psi and 180F) and it has lasted for years.

At 3 psi, it'll probably last forever.

The trick is that it must be put on with sufficient thickness. You can't simply apply a thin coating. It must be laid down so it's about 3/32" thick. Thicker is better. You cannot do it on a hot pipe because it will get too thin and spread out.

I think copper can be cleaned up a lot better than rusted cast iron and usually where there is one rust through on iron, the adjoining areas are likely compromised as well but Hey if it works for him, it works!

BobC

I've never used JB Weld but McMaster-Carr carries a good line of epoxies for this kind of repair. I used to repair wave solder machines that ran at 525 degrees and as long as everything was clean and grease free the epoxy worked fine and held up for years.

Bob

Captain Who

I have 6 repairs on a stretch of horizontal (and I mean horizontal) main that occasionally pops a new hole due to carbonic acid buildup and condensate pooling. The epoxy, aluminum sheathing, hose clamps method has held for several years so far. And yes, you do definitely have to use a wire wheel and emory cloth to clean off the rust and prepare the surface. When there is water dripping out of a hole, that complicates matters as it is best to dry it first, but if you use the backer sheathing and the hose clamps it will work when wet.

JoshS

Finally found the smoking gun! A radiator in a spare bedroom was leaking where the nut threads onto the valve. It was enough to soak a full size bath towel in a couple days. The nut was stripped out and could only be tightened so much before it loosened right back up. Didn't think that was possible with such coarse threads...

Anyway, a new valve and nipple and the leak is stopped. Finally got to use my spud wrench too!

BobC

I'm glad you found the culprit and also that the spud came out without causing too much grief.

Bo

icesailor

@JoshS:

"" I put a level on all questionable returns... the worst case is flat level along my main return (30'-0"), which is not good, but should only collect so much water before it starts returning. Overall, it still slopes the way it should, but has a spot towards the boiler end that appears to be level. ""

How did you determine that your 30' main was level with a slight sag in the middle? With a 4' Level?

I'd be using a water level. A 50' length of 3/8" ID clear Vinyl tubing filled with water. Water seeks its own level. You can measure anything got level with a water level. Put one meniscus on the boiler end, and see where it is at the 30' end. As long as the first level is at the center of the ell/pipe at the supply end, the other end shows where the level line is. No matter where you go, that will be a level line.

Short Bus Levels for cheap.

Fred

Glad you found the Leak!

clammy

The last 63 04 i did i used the 2 3 inch tapping into a 3 inch drop header and had no issues aside from the pipe sizes it looks like it needs a little help on that header piping .Get rid of that 3 rd take off and re do it aside from that angle it s just rolling condensate back into the header and being it a parrell flow your mains should be pitching away from the boiler not back to it..Im kinda hoping that this was a diy job because i dont think any pro with knoweledge and the proper skill set would leave something piped like that ,it s a mess.How high are those risers on the boiler.Not picking just tell the truth from what i see peace and good luck clammy