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boiler running, no heat.

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  • JUGHNE
    JUGHNE Member Posts: 11,062
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    The t-pile unhooked from the valve should put out 500 to 750 millivolts DC while you hold the pilot knob down. You need clip on leads to your meter to insure a good connection isolated from floor, hands etc. 3/8" of t-pile in flame. See instructions.
  • JUGHNE
    JUGHNE Member Posts: 11,062
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    You have to first establish that the T-pile produces enough voltage while in the pilot flame.
  • Captain Who
    Captain Who Member Posts: 452
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    I would say make sure you hold the knob down for a couple of minutes before releasing it. If the thermopile is putting out the proper voltage and it still doesn't stay lit, what else but a bad valve?

    Does anyone know if the gas company will come out for free to check the supply pressure in a case like this?

    Perhaps they didn't set up the inlet pressure correctly when they did the install? This should be checked I think.
  • JUGHNE
    JUGHNE Member Posts: 11,062
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    Are there any other gas appliances in the house that don't work correctly?
  • RobG
    RobG Member Posts: 1,850
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    Start Here: https://heatinghelp.com/systems-help-center/thermocouple-testing-procedure/
  • JUGHNE
    JUGHNE Member Posts: 11,062
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    That is good info for the testing procedure, however this appears to be a millivolt/thermopile and the mv would be in the 500 to 750 range.
    MikeinNEPA
  • mjp82
    mjp82 Member Posts: 23
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    It works!!!! Not exactly what was wrong in the end I cleared the pig tail (but didn't notice a blockage of any sort) put in the new thermocoupler (which I later found is also called a thermopile) and replaced all the wires between the tstat LWSO, and gas valve.

    My best guess is the wiring but who knows. I did notice that it took a good 2 or 3 min for the voltage reading on the new thermocoupler to read correctly.

    I can't thank you guys enough for all your help I would have still been scratching my head if it wasn't for this forum.
  • JUGHNE
    JUGHNE Member Posts: 11,062
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    The initial problem could have been a less than good switch contact. Your switches are LWCO--pressuretrol--Tstat. In the process of troubleshooting you may have exercised these switches enough to wipe/clean contacts thru multiple operations.

    Now after the house is warm you would make us all feel good about this if you test the LWCO while the burner is on (burner should shut off--pilot light should stay on--you must have manual water fill?? and bring water level back up). What pressure does this run and is the P-troll actually working on & off. It would be good to open the pressure relief valve to be sure something comes out and make sure it reseats. (Do this before the stores close in case you must replace it)
    Thanks
    MikeinNEPA
  • MikeinNEPA
    MikeinNEPA Member Posts: 47
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    I'm going back this weekend to check those things. I didcheck the pressure gauge and it was running about 1lb. (Hard to tell on the 30lb gauge) ptol is set at 1.5
  • Fred
    Fred Member Posts: 8,542
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    I just logged on and I was sitting here scratching my head too as I looked at your pictures. I thought it has to be that Thermocouple but maybe I'm wrong. Glad you got it resolved!
    MikeinNEPA
  • wmtandson
    wmtandson Member Posts: 62
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    I can,t believe that you are willing to leave your tenants with no heat ,and not invest in getting it fixed by a knowledgeable tech
  • Fred
    Fred Member Posts: 8,542
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    wmtandson said:

    I can,t believe that you are willing to leave your tenants with no heat ,and not invest in getting it fixed by a knowledgeable tech

    The problem happened last night and he gott it fixed this morning. It may have taken a Tech even longer just to get scheduled and get there. Things happen sometimes.
  • nicholas bonham-carter
    nicholas bonham-carter Member Posts: 8,578
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    Next time you could use the jumper wires with alligator clips to jump out all the safeties, one by one to find the bad one.--NBC
  • MikeinNEPA
    MikeinNEPA Member Posts: 47
    edited January 2015
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    It was fixed in 15 hours. I arrived at the house with space heaters in 2 hours after they notified me, but thanks for the judgement. There always has to be one bad Apple.
  • MikeinNEPA
    MikeinNEPA Member Posts: 47
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    Nicholas, I,m hoping not to have a next time, I'm considering a new boiler in 2017. So hopefully it will last that Long mostly it runs great but it was installed in 1968 and I know it's only a matter of time.

    I will say this for it, when I lived in that house 2 years ago we kept it at 66 in the winter and in an uninsulated 1300daft house we never had a gas bill over 225, and this is northern Pa
  • RobG
    RobG Member Posts: 1,850
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    When you go to replace it, make sure and come here first for sizing and contractor recommendations. We have seen too many installs gone bad by the low bidder.
  • MikeinNEPA
    MikeinNEPA Member Posts: 47
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    I'm with you there, anything new involving the steam system this tends to be my first stop. Unfortunately I haven't found any plummers near me that instill any confidence in reguards to steam. The last guy I had installed the boiler New on the late 60s, so I figured I could trust him, he told me I needed a new gas valve and thermocouple due to delayed detonation while he noticed was cleaning it. Replaced the parts with out asking me, but it still had the problem, he blamed bad gas pressure, turns out when he was cleaning it he knocked the pilot crooked. Worste part is he never tightened the drain pipe.
  • RobG
    RobG Member Posts: 1,850
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    @JStar may service your area. I would try calling him for service or a recommendation. His company is Thacher HVAC.

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