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gurgling in riser

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Comments

  • neilc
    neilc Member Posts: 2,787
    for giggles,
    on your pressuretrol, (I don't know heat timers),
    raise your differential to 3/4,
    and lower the cut out just a smidge more, another 1/2 #,
    every time you lowered your pressure you got a little happier,
    and when you read enough around here you'll find you're saving fuel and money by running the lower lbs also.

    that said, you may still have issues elsewhere as others have suggested,
    known to beat dead horses
  • Fred
    Fred Member Posts: 8,542
    neilc said:

    for giggles,
    on your pressuretrol, (I don't know heat timers),
    raise your differential to 3/4,
    and lower the cut out just a smidge more, another 1/2 #,
    every time you lowered your pressure you got a little happier,
    and when you read enough around here you'll find you're saving fuel and money by running the lower lbs also.

    that said, you may still have issues elsewhere as others have suggested,

    The problem with lowering Pressuretrols too low is sometimes they don't want to cut back on. Cut-in of around .5PSI (1 on the Differential scale) and Cut-out of 1.5PSI on the Main Scale is about as low as you can go with any degree of repeatability. A Vaporstat is the way to go if lower is desired.
    gramcynyc
  • gramcynyc
    gramcynyc Member Posts: 46
    The pressuretrol is not well defined below 2psi. There isn't any settings below in fact.

    I'm content with the progress I've made. I have to also meet the heat requirements of the other tenants.
  • gramcynyc
    gramcynyc Member Posts: 46
    But I appreciate your push. You got me down to 1.5psi with a difference of 1.
    As Fred mentioned I fear it may not come on again if too low. In fact I had to tweek it up once cause it didn't.
  • gcp13
    gcp13 Member Posts: 122
    If you did shorten the on cycle on the timer that could have shut the boiler off before the pressure climbed too high
    But may not run Long enough to heat all the radIators
    The boiler should be cycling off on the pressuretrol rather than the heat timer unless the boiler is sized correctly and never builds pressure
    You should try one thing at a time
  • gramcynyc
    gramcynyc Member Posts: 46
    Nope.....been 4 cycles since new settings and all risers have been hot. "On" cycle should get longer automatically as the temperature drops tonight.
  • Metalguy
    Metalguy Member Posts: 6
    Hi, I'm also in NYC, years ago I was in an apartment with steam heat, one radiator in one room was always gurgling, till I finally removed the vent and found a small chunk of paint, cleaned the vent and the small threaded hole it screwed into, reinstalled the vent, gurgling was gone, It's supply pipe would also clang when going from cold to hot and than hot to cold, I fixed that by shoving a piece of auto heater hose down around the supply pipe into the hole in the floor. Just a suggestion. Hope you solve your issue... DJ

    There was an error rendering this rich post.

  • vaporvac
    vaporvac Member Posts: 1,520
    Those are good suggestions, @Metalguy. BTW, lowering the Ptrol doesn't result in less heat, but actually FASTER heat delivery. You're probably as low as you can get without a Vaporstat. Change the other safety to 5lb; Why not, really. That's too much as it is.
    This post just emphasizes that these configurations of pipes, boilers and valves make up a system; change one thing and be prepared for changes elsewhere (and not always good).
    Two-pipe Trane vaporvacuum system; 1466 edr
    Twinned, staged Slantfin TR50s piped into 4" header with Riello G400 burners; 240K lead, 200K lag Btus. Controlled by Taco Relay and Honeywell RTH6580WF