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White Rodgers 1311
Tom_133
Member Posts: 919
Fellow Wallies,
I have never installed this style white Rogers zone valve and had a question on installation. when I separated the body away from the head to install, the stem came off of the head. When I went to install into the body the stem does not stay in the head and I'm wondering if there's a step im missing. I may be way off base but there looks to be a little brass piece that would slide up and turn that locks the stem to the rotating valve. If it doesn't lock I worry that the stem will fall down and land in the bottom of the body or be pushed down the pipe. Any ideas?
I have never installed this style white Rogers zone valve and had a question on installation. when I separated the body away from the head to install, the stem came off of the head. When I went to install into the body the stem does not stay in the head and I'm wondering if there's a step im missing. I may be way off base but there looks to be a little brass piece that would slide up and turn that locks the stem to the rotating valve. If it doesn't lock I worry that the stem will fall down and land in the bottom of the body or be pushed down the pipe. Any ideas?
Tom
Montpelier Vt
Montpelier Vt
0
Comments
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Read the directions for that Zone Valve or you are going to have water all over the place. To remove the head there are two small screws that attach the body to the head remove the screws and the head will come off.
Now that little brass piece needs to click in place to insure the water seal between the head and the body is sealed. Insert the body push down "hard" and twist and it should snap into place.
In the instructions there is a warning about this feature.0 -
Tim, I'm more worried about the top of the stem the splined end that goes into the head if it doesn't stay in the head there's nothing that holds the stem from slipping down into the body and heading down the pipe that's my question. I don't fully understand how the splined end of the stem stays in the the head of the zone valve tightlyTom
Montpelier Vt0 -
Take that thing back to where you got it and replace it with anything else.0
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Uncle John, I fully agree with what you're saying what I need is a high flow 1 inch sweat ball valve for the application. It's on a pool heat exchanger and I need as much flow so I can get for the amount of BTUs passing through it. I'm open to suggestions on any style high flow 1 inch zone valve replacement? The Cv is 37 on the white Rodgers.Tom
Montpelier Vt0 -
That's a pretty high Cv -- what kind of flow rate are you dealing with? The Belimo B232 (CCV with 1-1/4" NPT connections) has a ~1" ball inside) and a Cv of 37. The B225VS (motorized Apollo valve) has a Cv of 68 in the 1" version, but will cost a bit.
I'd probably look at using a pump instead of a valve, depending on the design.0 -
Swei thanks for chiming in and for the suggestions. This zone has a pump, but sadly because of the piping it pushes right thru if not stopped be a zone valve. I have quoted a total system repair but for now they need the hot tub to stop increasing in temp when the snowmelt system is idling. Price of valve isn't too much of a consideration since repipe is very very expensive. There was already a white Rodgers in place and it worked well but leaked and no one stocked the repair kit so the vote was to replace everything but the body, I really don't trust this valve though it is currently working ok.Tom
Montpelier Vt0 -
Zone valve as powered check valve? Perhaps not optimal, but sometimes you have to brute force things when there is no budget to fix them.0
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If these people can afford to idle a snowmelt system they can afford a proper repair! They just don't see the value in something that they can't see from the Mercedes.0
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The problem is four years ago they had somebody install two massive condensing boilers and they didn't change the piping. It has been Band-Aid fixed for a long time and does need proper piping unfortunately "it works" is how they see it.Tom
Montpelier Vt0 -
Are you sure you want to own this problem if it's not fixed properly?0
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what sort of pump are you running that will move 37 gpm thru 1"? Typical max. flow rate for 1" copper is 12 gpm. You would need 2" copper to move 37 gpm, at typical hydronic velocity of 4 fps.
Even if you could pump 37 gpm thru 1" it would be screaming.Bob "hot rod" Rohr
trainer for Caleffi NA
Living the hydronic dream0 -
Hot rod, I only need 13gpm thru the 400,000 btu xchanger but most 1" zone valves can't handle the closing psi(35-40), or are 7.5 Cv which seems low.Tom
Montpelier Vt0 -
A Taco 1" Zone Sentry has a cv of 8.9. Ball style zone valve for positive shutoff.0
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Gary, I think that Taco sentry would work very well thank you. I also noticed the 3/4"zone valve was 10.3 CV interesting...Tom
Montpelier Vt0
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