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Weil Mc Clain gv-3 series 2 locking out HELP!

inspkerr
inspkerr Member Posts: 23
edited November 2014 in THE MAIN WALL
Hello, I have a 20 year old gv -3 that is prone to locking out. the 1st part I changed was the igniter and it seemed to help but then it did it again. I then noticed a chattering noise in the gas valve and changed that also. things improved but it would still go through the ignition process and the last light - power to the gas valve and lock out and flash. Weil told me to check the burner cone so I just replace it, still locking out , the last thing I did was pull the vent off the bottom and found some scale from inside the combustion chamber - a little more than a handful and vacuumed it out , I'm leaning towards a flush out of the combustion chamber with water, the blower or fan seems to be moving the air well but I'm really not sure how to check that,gas pressure is good but boiler is still locking out. it seems worse when there is a heavy heating load on the system,like more cycles ? luckily here in in Minnesota it only does part of my house and makes my domestic hot water - but still a pain any suggestions would be appreciated - Paul

Comments

  • Tim McElwain
    Tim McElwain Member Posts: 4,632
    When it locks out what is the flash code? What is the Make and Model of the Integrated Boiler Control?
  • Docfletcher
    Docfletcher Member Posts: 487
    edited November 2014
    Here is a older thread on a guy/guys with same issue. Some claim the igniter culpable. Even if it works it can still be bad. I suggest you check out the thread. I'll bet Tim remembers it :)

    http://forum.heatinghelp.com/discussion/131866/weil-mclain-gv-gold-lockout-problems
  • inspkerr
    inspkerr Member Posts: 23
    I think its the original control , I can get the number, the red light is flashing next to the word valve on the control, thats all its ever done - draft ,igniter,then valve, the light go's on for a second by the word valve then go's into lockout or flashing. I have to shut the power down and it usally go's through the sequence and fires up
  • inspkerr
    inspkerr Member Posts: 23
    thanks to Tim and Doc, Tim the control is a united Technologies 1013-10 the flashing light is marked valve ,it goes through the sequence fine but it seems to not be igniting,the valve light comes on , then maybe a second later the valve light starts flashing and the igniter light drops out. What would be your next move?
  • Docfletcher
    Docfletcher Member Posts: 487
    edited November 2014
    Do the test. Do it a few times to try to catch a 24v fail.

    What igniter did you put in? Was Weil Mclain? I have had problems with some generic igniters.


    Did you try running with the vent off to see if it makes a difference?
  • Docfletcher
    Docfletcher Member Posts: 487
    Connect meter to gas terminals
    turn off gas valve
    Set thermostat to call for heat
    Igniter should glow for about 20 seconds
    24V should show at gas valve for about 6 seconds then return to 0
  • inspkerr
    inspkerr Member Posts: 23
    Thanks Doc, no I have not tried with the vent off, I will try the test but if the light on the control is an indicator for power to the valve it only stays on for a second if that, then lockout, i used the igniter recomended by w.m. so if I don't get a 6 second power to the gas valve is it the control???
  • icesailor
    icesailor Member Posts: 7,265
    If you talked to Weil-McLain, ask them about that control. Is the one you have the superseded one for that boiler? When that control was bad, all kinds of strange things happened.

    Do you have just one circulator? Do you have the thermostatic valve under the cover? The fact that you found rust in the exhaust might mean that the valve isn't working and the boiler is condensing and rusting. Not a good thing. It will also help with your problems and make them more difficult to diagnose.
  • inspkerr
    inspkerr Member Posts: 23
    Thanks Icesailer, I only have one circ. with 3-small zones a bed room and 3-season porch that is now living space, I also have a heat exchanger tank to make my domestic hot. I don't think there is a mixing valve I can't remember I'll check tonight, I use inside air for combustion, I was thinking bad air to explain the scale ??
  • Tim McElwain
    Tim McElwain Member Posts: 4,632
    When it locks out what is the flash code? What is the Make and Model of the Integrated Boiler Control?
  • Docfletcher
    Docfletcher Member Posts: 487
    Item 9 is the mixing valve Ice was telling you about. It is located front left of the circulator. Here is photo.

    http://screencast.com/t/EbLxmTIzetH

  • Docfletcher
    Docfletcher Member Posts: 487
    What series is your GV3? 2 or 3?
  • inspkerr
    inspkerr Member Posts: 23
    It's a G V. 3 series 2 not sure about the mixing valve it looks familiar , the flashing code indicates lock out
  • inspkerr
    inspkerr Member Posts: 23
    And the controller is a united tec. 1013 - 100. Inter grated boiler control
  • icesailor
    icesailor Member Posts: 7,265
    The mixing valve is under the cover. It is either black or blue.

    When the boiler starts from being cold, the boiler block itself is supposed to get hot quickly. There shouldn't be a lont run of condensate in the exhaust. The miser is to keep the condensation out of the boiler. Once it gets hot, the condensate will slow down. It depends where the plunger dies at. If it dies in the wrong place, you can not het enough heat into the system and the boiler is hot and cycling. There are no repair parts available for this item. Series 3 and 4 solved the problem with two circulators and the boiler is actually in a primary loop with the system being the secondary loop.

    If it is a series 2, and the control has never been changed, AND the mixer isn't right, the problem can be co-mingled. But it sounds like your first problem is that you need the Weil-McLain change to a new control. It has a Weil-McLain 3 part, 3 digit code. It comes with all parts needed to replace the old control. It still uses the old plugs/receptacles. Don't try looking for a used old control. You need the modification. Where I worked, a lot of GV boilers were sold and installed. My wholesaler always had the replacement kit on hand. They have 19 stores in New England. You really might need the new kit.
  • Docfletcher
    Docfletcher Member Posts: 487
    When my GV 4 was acting screwy Tim posted the TSB to correct a failing mixing valve. I'm told it can be very hard to remove the plug & get access to do the fix. You may want pro to do it. Here is TSB...

    http://www.weil-mclain.com/en/multimedia-library/pdf/weil-mclain-pdf/service-bulletins/SB0401R1.pdf
  • icesailor
    icesailor Member Posts: 7,265
    Somewhere in archives is a long and large discussion of this over a year ago. Or since June of 2013. There are two colors of valves. One is "easier" to remove than the other colored one. I think that the past person hired a professional who either didn't or couldn't get the valve apart so he re-piped the boiler with the two circulators. The repair of the valve seems like a "patch" but effective. I had the customer for years. I did the plumbing and heating but NOT the gas part of the boiler. If the owner had no hot water, she called the LP gas supplier. It was after the valve repair that I changed the controller. I changed a lot of controllers.
  • Docfletcher
    Docfletcher Member Posts: 487
  • Docfletcher
    Docfletcher Member Posts: 487
    Connect meter to gas terminals
    turn off gas valve
    Set thermostat to call for heat
    Igniter should glow for about 20 seconds
    24V should show at gas valve for about 6 seconds then return to 0
  • Docfletcher
    Docfletcher Member Posts: 487
    Connect meter to gas terminals
    turn off gas valve
    Set thermostat to call for heat
    Igniter should glow for about 20 seconds
    24V should show at gas valve for about 6 seconds then return to 0
  • Docfletcher
    Docfletcher Member Posts: 487
    Connect meter to gas terminals
    turn off gas valve
    Set thermostat to call for heat
    Igniter should glow for about 20 seconds
    24V should show at gas valve for about 6 seconds then return to 0
  • icesailor
    icesailor Member Posts: 7,265
    That's the one.

  • icesailor
    icesailor Member Posts: 7,265
    That's the one. It has a new connector. If you don't have that one, get it before you get nuts changing parts. Even if you change ignitors, it can still misbehave.

  • caldwell16
    caldwell16 Member Posts: 3
    Thanks ,You guys youre the greatest , it was the controller , sorry I didn't let you know , i'm back on as caldwell16
  • Docfletcher
    Docfletcher Member Posts: 487
    Nice to know your squared away. I still use the old style controller. I was able to get it to work correctly by re-soldering all the pins on the back side.
  • caldwell16
    caldwell16 Member Posts: 3
    You are way more talented than I !