can manual isolation or zone valves control heat?

eabolden

Hello.
I have a continuous loop boiler baseboard heating system. There are three pipes, one for the lower level and two for the upper level of my split foyer house. There are no electronic zone valves on the pipes. There are isolation/purge valves on each return pipe. Does having the isolation valves partly closed help control the temperature of that area?

Basically I am trying to increase the temperature downstairs without cooking me upstairs.
Thank you for any insight.
Lizz

STEVEusaPA

It could work, depending on a few things. Could you post a pic of the valve, and the piping near the boiler.

hot_rod

It may be possible to add zone control, really need to see the piping to know for sure.

For now you can try closing down the dampers on the baseboard in the rooms that you want less heat.

The damper is the long metal strip at the top of the fin tube baseboard, it should rotate to open, closed or in between to adjust the output.

Here is an example of a common fin tube from Slant Fin. #4 shows the damper operation.

Ironman

It could be very difficult to throttle the valve to just the right spot where it lets the right amount of water through. Then there's the matter of the valve not being designed for it and flow erosion occurring over time.
Like HR said, close the dampers - that's the correct approach. If that doesn't work sufficiently, you'll need to zone it with ZVs or separate circ's.
It sounds like the original installer took the cheap route making it all one zone.

eabolden

Here are some pictures of my system. The Valves in question are on the two vertical pipes and the horizontal pipe. I took pictures from Both sides.
I am still trying to figure out why one room upstairs is always cold. The fin is open

We changed the auto vent valve on the expansion tank yesterday And bled out a lot of water which was dark brown. How would I know if my system had antifreeze in it?

I have had a bad experience with local heating ttechnicians. First company cleaned it and said it needed replacing do to rust and age. 2nd company said it was oversized but not rusty but replace. 3rd company knew I had a lot of conflicting advice said it was fine would probablyladt 10 more years. Gas company said it was fine when they can put to increase the gas pressure.

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Ironman

The loop that's not flowing properly could be air bound or balancing of flow may be needed.

You're in Northern VA? I'd highly recommend that you call Dan Foley of Foley Mechanical in Lorton. He's one of the best in this business. He'll fix it right.

bob_46

Lizz , in the photo ending in 924 on the two vertical pipes I see two balancing valves that are almost closed . Try turning them so that the slot is parallel to the pipe (wide open) see if that doesn't give you more heat upstairs .

eabolden

Thanks Ironman for the referral to Dan Foley but unfortunately it doesn't appear that he services my area. I am a little south in Prince William County.

Bob,
Part of the reason those isolation valves were set that way was to increase the heat in the lower level without overheating the upstairs. the only thermostat for the system is located in the lower level's hallway. I had been controlling the upstairs temperature by keeping the thermostat set pretty low downstairs, whichg results in a freezing lower level.

bob_46

Lizz, DUH , I just reread your original post please disregard my comments.

Ironman

Lizz,
If you'll p/m me I'll give you someone else to try.

RobG

Dan Foley is in Lorton, not far away from you. You will be hard pressed to find a more competent company.

eabolden

No Lorton is not far at all but it says his service area does not include where I live to the south.

RobG

Give him a call and say that you heard about his company here.