Is buying a used threader risky?

ChrisJ

I'm considering buying a used threader like a Ridgid 65R-TC. 90% of my needs are 1" 1 1/4" and 2" .





My assumption is if I buy a used one worst case I'll need to spend $70 on new dies. Is this correct, or do these tools often end up with other problems? I realize I'll still need a reamer and cutter etc but that's another story.

jonny88

used tools

I bought my ridgid 300 used 3 years ago and have yet to have a problem.Just like anything TLC.I suppose there is always a risk when buying used but we all have budgets.Good luck with it.

nicholas bonham-carter

Old pipe threaders

The main problem I have seen (with the threaders in our local hardware store), is the chuck losing its hold on the pipe, and being unable to turn it against the die.--NBC

ChrisJ

threader type

NBC,



The type of threader I'm looking at doesn't hold the pipe so that may not be a concern.



Best I can tell, you clamp the pipe in a vice or a holder and after cutting and reaming you use this to thread it by hand. A long handle slides into the hole shown at the bottom.



My concern is they seem to cost $900-1K new yet are on ebay $150-200 used. Usually tools don't drop in value like that.

JStar

Threader

We don't thread anything over 1" by hand. Actually, let me rephrase that. We don't WANT to thread anything over 1" by hand. It's not fun. We buy all of our threading equipment used. The usual parts go bad every few years like switches and belts (on older threaders).

icesailor

65 RC-TC's

That is a fine threader, almost bomb proof. If the dies are worn, it is not difficult to change to new ones. 65 R-C is handier than the TC which means that it is "True Centering. I found that the 65R-C did a better job of holding on to the pipe. Don't get cheap dies, get the good, more expensive ones. They don't cost that much more and last many times more over.

If you are going to thread pipe, but a used Power Drive. You won't be sorry. After threading a few 2" IPS threads, you'll be buying a machine.

Sometimes. it helps to wire brush the debris out of the rear jaws that hold on to the pipe. That always stopped any slippage for me.

Mad Dog_2

I have bought very few Ridgid dies and machines new.....

Got all my stuff used from old timers and garage sales.  With the exception of some new replacement dies sometimes,  Ridgid products are built to last forever.  Mad Dog

Tom_133

I 2nd that...

Mad Dog and I are in total agreement, both my machines are ridgid and all hand units are as well. All bought used, all I did was clean them up thoroughly and been doing work with them ever since.

ChrisJ

I finally got around to buying a few things after having the recent issue of getting pipe cut and threaded again. The vice is a Rothenberger that does 1/8" to 4", the 65R-TC and of course a handle. Will be buying a gallon of Ridgid clear cutting oil as well.

The handle I bought claims to be a 24" Ridgid but it doesn't come apart which may bite me down the road if I want to thread something in place.

Are there any tips any of the pros could give when threading with one of these?

gerry gill

You did good Chris.

j a_2

If you do end up with a ridged 300 make sure you get the users manual and teach all those using it of the dangers….Very very recently a 60 yr. old plumber chocked himself to death with a ridged 300, google it…Then just the other day a young man lost his arm….Careful from who you by from if its to good a deal something is wrong

ChrisJ

j a said:

If you do end up with a ridged 300 make sure you get the users manual and teach all those using it of the dangers….Very very recently a 60 yr. old plumber chocked himself to death with a ridged 300, google it…Then just the other day a young man lost his arm….Careful from who you by from if its to good a deal something is wrong

Hi j a,

I doubt that will ever happen. I'm a homeowner and likely won't thread many pipes that often. I think the 65R-TC will likely out last me with the first set of dies.

Do you have a link to the article about the two people you mentioned? Might be a good thing to share on the Wall to warn others.

icesailor

I mentioned this before. From the 7th grade in Junior High School to High School Graduation, I took shops. At least twice per year, we took the same standardized safety test. On it, (#6) was the question about wearing loose fitting clothing when working around spinning equipment. Whenever I ran my 300 Power Drive, I always rolled up my sleeves and stuck the strings of my Hoodie sweat shirt inside. My 300 Power Drive came with a foot operated safety switch. The machine wouldn't run without you standing on the switch. I've seen some with the switch disabled.

Where I worked, years ago, there was an old plumber. He didn't really like to Plumb, but he loved doing wells. He bought a rig to go on the back of a pick-up truck to bore wells. It had all kinds of safety devices on it to keep you from getting caught up in it. The guy liked to work alone. So he disabled all the safety switches so he could operate it alone. One was a "Dead Man's Switch" like they have on train locomotives. Unless you physically hold the lever forward, the machine won't operate. One morning, he didn't come back home for lunch. Someone went out to see if he was all right. He wasn't. It was a very gruesome sight. At least the guy who found him knew how to shut off the rig.

Don't mess with safety devices. Your choices can kill you or others.

ChrisJ

Well I tried threading pipe four times last night and only the first one worked. The other 3 the first 2 threads got botched.

Right now I'm pretty sure it's because I was using a sawzall to cut the pipe so I went out this morning and bought a Ridgid 2A. Shh, don't tell the wife.

The first pipe I threaded ended up with absolutely perfect threads so I think the dies must be in good shape.

There is one thing I can't figure out and hopefully someone can comment. On the 65R-TC, the lever you use to clamp the toolholder onto the pipe, do you just close this by hand, or are you suppose to put some force on it? Also, mine doesn't close all the way when on the pipe, though it does seem to hold it fine. I'd say it ends up about the same position on the pipe as the one is in this picture. For all I know this is completely normal and actually from how the thing is made I can't see how anything could make it any different.

ChrisJ

I've attached a picture showing my first threads which came out perfect, as well as a picture showing the position of the toolholder clamp when in use.

icesailor

You have to cut off the pipe with a pipe cutter so the cut is square to the pipe. Otherwise, the die stock will not be able to start itself.

You really should have a reamer too. One size fits all. Its the "2-S"

https://www.ridgid.com/us/en/pipe-reamers

Abracadabra

ChrisJ said:

...
There is one thing I can't figure out and hopefully someone can comment. On the 65R-TC, the lever you use to clamp the toolholder onto the pipe, do you just close this by hand, or are you suppose to put some force on it? ...

On receding pipe threaders, you need to make sure that you crank down on that clamp screw. On my 141 and 161, if i get lazy and don't tighten it up, the pipe will slip and the threads come out like crap. I haven't used a 65, but on the 141/161 i use a small pipe wrench to make sure it's tight.

ChrisJ

Abracadabra said:

ChrisJ said:

...
There is one thing I can't figure out and hopefully someone can comment. On the 65R-TC, the lever you use to clamp the toolholder onto the pipe, do you just close this by hand, or are you suppose to put some force on it? ...

On receding pipe threaders, you need to make sure that you crank down on that clamp screw. On my 141 and 161, if i get lazy and don't tighten it up, the pipe will slip and the threads come out like crap. I haven't used a 65, but on the 141/161 i use a small pipe wrench to make sure it's tight.

Ah see that's where I'm confused, there is no clamp screw, it's more like a single paddle that you flip over and it locks the pipe in. I just did it tonight with the new pipe cutter and just hand tight was plenty to produce beautiful threads.

billtwocase

We've had our 300 for close to 40 years. It never fails

Dave0176

I used my 65R for two steam boiler jobs, threaded everything up to 2". After that last job I went and bought a 300 threading machine. It's about 40 years old, was missing the reamer, the cutter will need replacement soon but it came with brand new stainless steel dies, I paid $500, I've done about 10 jobs without doing a thing to it. Now everything is power threaded from 1/2" up.

Just recently I bought a 141 with the drive adaptor for the 300.

icesailor

@ChrisJ:

"" On receding pipe threaders, you need to make sure that you crank down on that clamp screw. On my 141 and 161, if i get lazy and don't tighten it up, the pipe will slip and the threads come out like crap. I haven't used a 65, but on the 141/161 i use a small pipe wrench to make sure it's tight.


Ah see that's where I'm confused, there is no clamp screw, it's more like a single paddle that you flip over and it locks the pipe in. I just did it tonight with the new pipe cutter and just hand tight was plenty to produce beautiful threads. ""

First of all, you need to operate the die properly. That "Paddle" is important. You have to set the dies in the proper position for the pipe you are threading. Rnn the coller out until you can move the dies to the proper size and move the dies to the proper opening. Run it back down. On one side of where the collar slides you will see two lines imprinted into the tapered part' The collar that moves up and down is supposed to be placed between these two lines. Then, the jaws with the cutter dies are in the proper position. Flip the whole diestock over and make sure that the back collar is in the indent for the same size as the front. With the paddle pulled forward, the diestock will slide on to the pipe. The lever on the front of the diestock MUST be set to "Close" when you push the dies against the pipe. Hols ot as close to being centered as you can and push the paddle back firmly. The dies must still be on the pipe. Push the paddle down as hard as you can. You don't need to hit it with a hammer. Hit it with your hand is enough. I always put the "Open/Close" lever on the top. You should be able to start threading and it should be perfect. When it reaches the bottom and starts to ratchet, turn the "Open/Close" lever to open and unwind the diestock. Stop at the place there the two marks are.

You MUST get the paddle tight. That is what the "TC" or True Centering" part is about.

ChrisJ

Hi Ice,

Thanks for responding.
This is basically what I've been doing now and I get perfect results every time. The only change I made was I go one turn further on the workholder as I felt the threads were too tight with it centered between the "standard" lines. With one more turn I feel it's perfect, at least with the fittings I'm using right now. I get 2-3 turns by hand and a few with a wrench and things just seem to fit really well. Not sure if this indicates some wear on the dies or just me being a perfectionist.

I've attached a picture of one of the threads I did. This was already screwed into a fitting so there is some leftover tape etc on it.

This is very comparable to the threads on a factory made nipple as far as how it screwed in and honestly, I've never had threads done this nice at a store or plumbing supply. Our local plumbing supply anytime he threaded pipe for me the threads are razor sharp and thin and almost always bottomed out in the fitting.

RobG

How are you reaming the pipe?

ChrisJ

RobG said:

How are you reaming the pipe?

A round file and it's very time consuming but no money left for a reamer.

icesailor

Reamers and such can all be found on E-Bay or other places where used tools are sold. One size reamer fits from 1/8" or 1/4" to 2".

If you are going to use a file, better a small grinding wheel in a battery drill and grind off the ridge.