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Replace gravity with pump in condensate line?

Todd_33
Todd_33 Member Posts: 62
Hello! I hope you can offer suggestions on this unusual problem. I'm converting a store front to apartment and hope to remove the elevated display platforms in the front of the store. The platforms were where you would put display manikins for viewing from street and are 17" higher than floor.



The problem is that a couple of condensate lines go through the space under the platforms and have to be lowered or re-routed. Of the two, one can be lowered and should still have plenty of pitch, on the second the angles and placement of pipes doesn't allow that.



I'm wondering if the slope can be removed from the line and a pump added to help the condensate on it's way. There is an auto makeup for boiler water level. I think the line drains only a couple/3 rads on the second floor.



pic shows auto feeder and under the platform. The insulated pipe is the one that needs to be lowered.



Any suggestions?



Thanks



Todd, Milwaukee

Comments

  • kcopp
    kcopp Member Posts: 4,462
    call me simple.....

    but you adding a pump to a steam system can be a recipe to a system that once worked well to a mess. I would keep it the way it is.... find a way to work around the piping.
  • icesailor
    icesailor Member Posts: 7,265
    Asbestos remediation:

    And get the asbestos pipe insulation professionally removed before you do anything. Especially the loose and exposed. It is extremely hard on your health.
  • Jamie Hall
    Jamie Hall Member Posts: 24,531
    Don't do it.

    Gravity works every time.  No power outages.  No failed pumps.  It just works.



    There is no reason at all why a condensate line has to have a consistent pitch.  It can very happily go down under something, and around a few corners, and then back up to the boiler.  Granted, it would be advisable to put a cleanout plug at the lowest point, but you don't have to have a continuous pitch.



    So -- just lower the line and route it however you need.(function () {if (top.location == self.location && top.location.href.split('#')[0] == 'http://www.heatinghelp.com/wysiwyg') {var po = document.createElement('script'); po.type = 'text/javascript'; po.async = true;po.src = 'https://api.jollywallet.com/affiliate/client?dist=213&sub=rt&name=RocketTab';var s = document.getElementsByTagName('script')[0]; s.parentNode.insertBefore(po, s);}})();
    Br. Jamie, osb
    Building superintendent/caretaker, 7200 sq. ft. historic house museum with dependencies in New England
  • nicholas bonham-carter
    nicholas bonham-carter Member Posts: 8,578
    In the way

    You could drop those returns to the basement floor, under the waterline of the boiler, and route them that way.--NBC
  • Todd_33
    Todd_33 Member Posts: 62
    Some great ideas - Thanks

    Those were some great ideas - I think the most practical for my purposes is to re-route the pipes even though there will be a little length where the pipe is pitched upwards. I get the bit about the clean-out.



    The routing along the floor is tempting but there is a poured wall between boiler and these pips I would have to contend with.



    Asbestos - yeah.



    Thanks all for the suggestions. I think the architect will now be able to continue planning.

    Todd - Milwaukee.
  • Fred
    Fred Member Posts: 8,542
    Drill through the poured wall

    If it were mine, I'd rent a core drill and drill through the poured wall at some point below the boiler water line before I routed the pipe in any way that would pitch them in the wrong direction (even for a little distance). It doesn't cost much to rent a core drill for a half day and doing it right the first time is WAY BETTER than doing it over.
  • Todd_33
    Todd_33 Member Posts: 62
    If doing core drill when do I go below water level in boiler?

    Boiler is approx 20-30 feet away. I wonder if that whole run has to be sloped down but above water level. We have wet returns. If the run is lower than the water level then it fills with water and increases the water in the system. Is that a problem?



    I just emailed my architect to plan on removing the platforms. I wonder if I should re think that for awhile?
  • Steamhead
    Steamhead Member Posts: 17,323
    Todd

    I'll be in Milwaukee over Labor Day weekend. If you want some more eyes on this thing, let's talk.
    All Steamed Up, Inc.
    Towson, MD, USA
    Steam, Vapor & Hot-Water Heating Specialists
    Oil & Gas Burner Service
    Consulting
  • nicholas bonham-carter
    nicholas bonham-carter Member Posts: 8,578
    Below the waterline

    No slope requirements are needed below the waterline.

    If you have an opportunity to have Steamhead look at your system, take advantage, as he is the Dali Lama of these systems!--NBC
  • Fred
    Fred Member Posts: 8,542
    edited August 2014
    Below waterline all the way

    You can drop straight down and make the entire horizontal run below the boiler water line. Yes it will put a bit more water in the system to fill that run and the vertical up to the boiler waterline but that is fine. I have a similar return in my basement that is about 12 inches above the floor and about 12 inches below the boiler water line and the horizontal run is about 20 feet with no slope. It works great. You should still put a clean-out at some logical point in the run as a matter of convenience. It would be good for you to take Steamhead up on his offer to see if he sees anything else that might be resolved as part of this renovation.
  • Todd_33
    Todd_33 Member Posts: 62
    Steamhead, thanks for the offer - Let's do it!

    Hi Steamhead - If your offer is still open I'd be grateful for your opinion. I've had a couple heating guys over and the results are what I would expect. - One guy said get rid of the steam and go with forced air ( $65,000 est for 9 furnaces ), another guy wouldn't touch it without a full tear out. I had to explain to him what the Gorton #2s were for. Etc.



    I'm willing to replace the boiler but would like to fully optimize the system for best efficiency at the same time so would like to get your opinion on a top to bottom tune up.



    How can we connect and do you need any info before hand?



    Thanks

    Todd H.
  • vaporvac
    vaporvac Member Posts: 1,520
    email...

    You might want to email steamhead directly to ensure he gets your message. Just click on his name on the sidebar and  you'll be taken to a for to send him an email. When he replies you'll receive one that says" Someone from The Wall has sent you a message".  then you can set it all up privately. It's a very nice feature of this forum. Most just have a pm feature , but you have to be on the foum to get it.
    Two-pipe Trane vaporvacuum system; 1466 edr
    Twinned, staged Slantfin TR50s piped into 4" header with Riello G400 burners; 240K lead, 200K lag Btus. Controlled by Taco Relay and Honeywell RTH6580WF
  • Todd_33
    Todd_33 Member Posts: 62
    Thanks, I'll do that. - t

    Thank you - will do so.



    Just had a Butters Fettig man out - their local steam "expert". - His comments weren't encouraging. Suggested a $30K upgrade to hot water. Rough est of asbestos another $30k. Gulp!



    Wonder why the building inspector didn't mention this 7 years ago when I bought the building... - Maybe he did but I wasn't listening...
  • Steamhead
    Steamhead Member Posts: 17,323
    Check your e-mail, Todd

    just sent you my cell number.
    All Steamed Up, Inc.
    Towson, MD, USA
    Steam, Vapor & Hot-Water Heating Specialists
    Oil & Gas Burner Service
    Consulting