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Did you wing it ad you enter, did you follow a picture from here?
Did you cut pipe or just have a bunch of nipples?0
we have a machine does 2 1/2 to 4
Pictures from here and manufactures instructions
We have done a lot of residents steamers but only a handful of commercial.
Always looking to improve and learn something new
Hence the reason for posting0
What size boiler?
What size header?0
the extra work is worth it,I posted a similar question not so long ago and steamhead suggested I increased the drop header to 2 1/2 in on a IN5
ChrisJ posted a beauty on his site I dont know if you saw it or not.
3 inch header0
I would have gone to a 5" header. My charts show 3" as good for up to 140,000 BTUH. For the 5007B DOE output, a 3" header has the steam moving at over 56 ft/sec. A 5" header, at 20 ft/sec. My charts assume a 1PSI maximum cut-out.
Might not make a difference, but something to keep in mind for the next one.0
using the second riser puts it a bit above what is needed but will dry out the steam better. The Starbucks books I have on heating warn about using too large of piping than what is needed as it mean more air to be vented for each cycle and more heat loss due to the increased surface area. Burnham called for one riser you used 2 and Burnham called for a 3" header and you dropped it . Nice job and nice balance between doing it right and not wasting anyone's money. What do you use for a threader?Cost is what you spend , value is what you get.
cell # 413-841-6726
I will not get involved in the great header debate:) The only piping change (not to include the header debate). I would have put a union on each riser as it would make repairs / section replacement / boiler removal easier down the road. With my luck, piped as it is, I would end up with a sand hole in a fitting or section and have to disassemble all of it. But that's just me.
Used the 3 inch header because that's the size manufactures called for
Charlie I use a ridgid 4JP I think it is called.
Do not think it's made anymore I have to change the teeth for Each different size pipe.
The advantage over universal one is that it smaller if you ever have to thread in position which is very rare it leaves you a bit more room.
Some guys might call this a donkey head can be used with Ridgid 300 or 700.
I have attached some before pictures0
Yep I have a 4 pj in my shop too
The 141 is nice. I kind of collect threaders so I also have the 4" and the 6" beaver heads. The beaver 4" is small like the 4pj but is adjustable.Cost is what you spend , value is what you get.
cell # 413-841-6726
I usually install shut off valve on steam line to the system, and shutoff valve with blowdown valve upstream on return line to facilitate boiler blowdown and return line purging. And unions on all boiler pipes connections. Also I would give more distance between the 2 tees.
I would also go up in pipe size after first tee, so the first tee would be 4x3x3, and continue with 4" with 4" full elbow down on equalizer. Of course 4" might become 5" depending on boiler input.0
I install first tee as close to 90 as possible and as far from second tee as possible. Just move tee to the left. It gives time for carry over water to get to bottom of the pipe and slow down. Makes good steam and water separation.0
With 1 riser you increase steam velocity in the pipe, make water level in the boiler uneven and increase amount of carry over water. You can do one riser as slant fin does, but size of this riser must be pretty large.0
keep us posted
let us know how you made out.good luck with it0
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