How to detect if there's oil in steam boiler water

handmrepairs

<span style="font-size:12pt">I replaced a return line with black steel about 2 months ago. Ever since then, the boilers burner has been short-cycling off the pressuretrol.</span>

<span style="font-size:12pt">I was told that there’s oil in the water from the black pipe, so I skimmed it out from the relief valve tapping … plus a bunch of other methods to remove the oil (and dirt) from the water.</span>

<span style="font-size:12pt">It’s still short-cycling off the pressuretrol.</span>

<span style="font-size:12pt">I have ph paper with which to test the waters ph, and if need be I can adjust it (the ph).</span>

<span style="font-size:12pt">But how can I tell, if I successfully removed all the oil from the water or if there’s still some left?</span>

Fred

???

Typically you will get a lot of bounce in the water in the sight glass and you may see condensation running down inside the top of that glass. What makes you think you are short cycling on pressure? Normally, if there is enough water bounce, the Low Water Cut-ff may shut the boiler down until the water level settles down enough to start the burner again.

The pressuretrol is not usually affected. What is the Pressuretrol set at? Is the syphon tube it is mounted  on clean and clear? It is possible that that tube is clogged with gunk and not letting the pressure drop from cycle to cycle.

Jamie Hall

And...

when in the cycle does it "short cycle"?  It is, as Fred said, unusual for oil -- even a fair amount of the stuff -- to cause a problem with the pressuretrol.

handmrepairs

Thank you all and please let me clarify myself

The pressure in the boiler definitely builds up, to high (to fast) and therefore the pressuretrol is doing its job correctly by shutting the boiler down. The issue I’m apparently having is - getting the pressure to stop building (so quickly).

I was led to believe that the reason is due to either oil or ph. Well the ph, I know how to check, but I don’t know how to check if the water is oil free or not.

Fred

Not likely

Oil in the water is Not likely to be the problem. Check you main vents in the basement (main piping)or somewhere around the return piping. I would suspect they may be stuck closed. 

When you replaced the return line, did you put it back exactly like it was? Did that return have a vent in it?

handmrepairs

I replaced...

I replaced the main vent with the same Hoffman that was there, that didn't work so I tried a Gorton - same problem

Unless I'm mistaken, I put it back exactly the way it was, and the original return didn't have a vent in it.

Fred

Hoffman 75?

Are you sure the Hoffman you put on is a #75? Not 74 or 75H, those won't work. Which Gorton did you put on? a #1 or #2 ? The #1 may not be large enough to vent sufficiently

handmrepairs

I'm going...

I'm going to check and get back to you - might not be till later on or even tomorrow.

Thank you very much

moneypitfeeder

Oil vs Oil free water

Hi, a quick easy way that you can tell if your water has oil in it is to cold skim a sample of water into a small saucepan, and then take roughly the same amount of tap water into another. Put both on med-high heat, and watch how the boiler water boils. If it behaves like the tap water, then it has no or almost no oil, if it doesn't bubble the same, keep skimming! And if they are your significant others good pans, clean them three times, dry them, put them away (exactly where you found them) and never speak of borrowing them! 

Charlie from wmass

If the old return had a leak

it would not allow pressure to build. now the leak is fixed the pressure builds. could that explain it for you?

Charlie from wmass

also did you clean

the pigtail ? The new pipe may be a red herring.

handmrepairs

Thank you all, I appreciate all your help.
Just to let you know the end of the story & to apologize to you all, for "tomorrow" taking all the way till 'today' - @ least I'm just 'later' and not 'never'. From what ended up happening, you should understand why it took me so long to get back to you.
It was the Hoffman 75 that I tried but it didn't work
I forgot right now which Gorton I used, but I know it was the unusual gigantic one, it didn't work
Thank you moneypitfeeder that was a great, head on answer, that I immensely appreciate & will be able to use in the future (I didn't end up using it for this one)
And thank you Charlie from wmass I appreciate your 1st idea but it seems that, that was not the case and I'll let you soon know why, & for the pigtail idea I'm pretty sure I checked, cleaned , made sure it was cleaned, maybe even more than one time and, it still didn't work
So the bottom line is, it was nearing spring, then summer came... the boiler was off all that time...
And when it was put back on the next heating season it went on fine, worked well until the pple eventually moved out ...
The house with the boiler were demolished, with the intension of building a new house...
So, go figure... It ended well for me, maybe it just needed a rest???

handmrepairs

I just deleted the mistakenly repeated comment that was here.

aircooled81

Well that resolution sounded like the ol "if it doesn't do it the first time, get a bigger hammer" trick.
Demolishing the residence is the biggest hammer I ever heard of!

Steamhead

So they knocked down a great old house to build a new one that won't last nearly as well.............

You can't fix stupid.