Reconnecting radiator - 1in stretch

Si_zim

The plumber renovating our 2nd floor bathroom (doubt if he knows anything about steam) disconnected the radiator prior to redoing the floor. I dont know if he supported the riser in any way but it doesnt seem like it - and now I moved the rad back I see a 1-1.5in diff presumably because the riser has dropped a bit under its weight. I would guess this is normal when a rad is disconnected but would like to confirm.



It kinda makes some sense as we have also noticed a bit of water hammer in the ground floor bath's rad - and these are the only two feeding off this short main. So probably the whole thing is sagging under the weight. Unfortunately we just finished the basement reno and the main is soffited away next to the beam... so I cant be sure if it had anchors - or check if it really has poor pitch.



Pipes are (I presume) original to the 1930's house. Do you think it's safe to get him to lever/jack the fitting up to reconnect the rad (and hopefully correct the main pitch... and maybe anchor main afterwards if I can get access) - or are we likely to shear something off and are better just extending? I saw a similar thread a while back but no conclusion.



Thanks for any input

(photo looks correct on my PC but looks rotated on the posting - sorry)

Mark N

Details

The saying is the the Devil is in the Details. A pro should be able to fix this without any trouble. I would be more concerned with the now with the main behind the soffit. Do you still have access to the main vents?

Si_zim

main vent is accessible

Its at the end  of the dry return back in the utility room - so no probs with that

ChrisJ

Hands?

What happens if you just grab the valve with your hands and pull up?  Can it be pulled up by hand and re-attached?  If so, I would just do that.  I doubt you will harm anything with just your hands.

Si_zim

moves a few mm

if I try by hand it moves a few mm but not nearly enough to reconnect. I think it would need some leverage to lift the full weight of the 20 or so feet of riser plus the part of the main that has sagged. But leverage means more chance of damage I guess

BobC

Another possibility

is the pipe between the valve and the pipe under the floor is too short and has to be extended. Whoever put in that floor should fix this for you, it is his responsibility to put things right.



Bob

Jamie Hall

I won't guarantee anything

unless I were there doing it, which I'm not going to be -- so take what I say with a grain of salt.  Or two or three.



That said, the first question is: was the floor raised?  If it has been, you have a bigger problem, as I wouldn't venture to raise the riser beyond where it had been originally without being able to inspect the runout or main in the basement while I was doing it.



Ok -- if not, you probably would be safe enough putting up to one or two hundred pounds pull on that riser.  That is going to take a lever and a bit of courage.  Also some finesse: if you put some force on it, and it starts to come up pretty well and smoothly, but then stops before you get to where you want, you've hung up on something somewhere and you are just going to have to gain access to the main and runouts to find out what's gone wrong.



Now having said that -- the whole thing should have been supported so it didn't sag when you disconnected the union. Sadly, supports do get left out -- or age and fall apart.  It wouldn't be a bad idea to gain access, once you get the thing put back together, and get the pipes properly supported.

Pughie1

Radiator piping

Have you tried opening the valve while the boiler is running? Do you get steam, water or nothing. If you get dry steam the chances are the pipe did not move or at least not enough to effect steam delivery. If this is the case try extending the supply perhaps with a "pipe extension" (male X female nipple). Jamie is exactly right however. This may take an experienced guy.

                                                             John Pughe

Si_zim

thanks all

I'll carefully try to lever it back to position when the plumber comes back so he can help out.

The floor level should have been put back at the same level so I think it's the pipe that dropped.

I opened the the valve and got steam with some water sounds... so think somethings sagged

BobC

Not that heavy

20 feet of 1-1/4 pipe is not that heavy, I suspect the new tile is binding on the pipe when you try to lift it. The installer may have to grind a a bit of the tile back to allow free movement.



Bob

rich11coop

Pex Supply

Black pipe extension piece

Jamie Hall

Not, in my humble opinion

until you have tried raising the pipe back where it belongs -- too much risk of introducing a sag and either poor heat or water hammer.

BobC

Worth playing with

If it really is a 20 ft run and the framing is 2X8 there could be some play if the original pipe fitter didn't get sloppy. It all depends on what the new floor height is compared with t he old.



Bob

Si_zim

Update on this

The plumber came back and chipped around the riser a bit -  and we could pull it up pretty easily to reattach. I think I still need to lift the short main and anchor it better in the basement - but am monitoring for hammer to see if the sag has been somewhat improved.



Thanks for feedback here

ChrisJ

Movement

Just keep in mind that riser expands when it gets hot so either the area in the bottom must drop some, or the radiator must lift. Point being don't anchor directly under the riser. Most if not all of mine are floating and only supported by the radiators them selves.