Old main vents rusted on

dubbsi

I moved into a house this past summer (1 pipe steam), and have no idea when any of the heating work was last done. I was all set to change the main vents for my new Gortons this evening when I discovered I couldn't remove the vents due to rust. Any suggestions for getting the old vents unstuck?

JStar

Two words.

Bigger wrench.



But, seriously...any pictures? Maybe we can advise on the best solution.

dubbsi

Pics

Yeah, I definitely need a bigger wrench. These didn't even budge. I was more wondering if there was some sort of Lubricant I could also try, and if any of the experts here had suggestions on brands or types.



Pics are attached.

JStar

Vents

Looks like those were installed without any tape or dope which makes it unusually difficult to remove. I would try some WD-40, PB Blaster, or Rust Buster. If those fail, you can heat up the vent with a torch, or just use a bigger wrench. You can also use a smaller wrench with a piece of pipe on the end for enhanced leverage.

kamruz

Nipple

If the vent don't turn you can remove the nipple and put new nipple and vent.

What size vent should I put in the return line in the boiler room? one pipe system.

dubbsi

Appreciate the help

Thanks for the suggestions. I'll pick up some PB Blaster next time I'm at the hardware store.

JamesC in Stamford CT

and if the nipple does not budge either . . .

I had a similar problem, and I ended up breaking up the cast iron fitting that hold the nipple, and replaced the fitting and the nipple in order to install my new main vents.



There are lots of prior posts on how to break fittings.

nicholas bonham-carter

Breaking the fitting as a last resort

If the vent, and nipple are not going to budge, then instead of breaking the tee, cut the nipple, and remove the remains by making axial cuts, and collapsing with a chisel.

Breaking a fitting which is not an ell, will make reinstallation difficult.--NBC

JamesC in Stamford CT

order of operations

yes, agree with nicholas. try cutting out the nipple first.

And only if that does not work out then break the fitting.`

Pumpguy

I've found...

an even more effective penetrating oil is a 50/50 mix of Acetone and Liquid Wrench.  This was more effective than either PB Blaster or Liquid Wrench used alone.  Other sources recommended a 50/50 mixture of Acetone and Type F automatic transmission fluid.  I have not tried this mixture so can't comment on results. 



I've also found helpful is some hammer blows on the side of the fitting, with a heavy metal support on the opposite side to prevent any bending.



Hope this helps.

dubbsi

Got 'em off!

Solution: PB Blaster plus a bigger wrench.  Thanks, everyone.

Thecrow

Pb blaster and what type of wrench? Tried very large Cresent and pipe wrench nothing is moving! I have a new Gorton main 3 quarter inch for the replacement. Thanks in advance

Fred

Thecrow said:

Pb blaster and what type of wrench? Tried very large Cresent and pipe wrench nothing is moving! I have a new Gorton main 3 quarter inch for the replacement. Thanks in advance

If you have a Gorton vent that is 3/4", it's probably too small anyway. How long is the Main? It most likely needs at least one Gorton #2 and, given they cost as much as the Barnes and Jones Big Mouth, I'd spend my money on the Big Mouth that has about 2.5 times the venting capacity of a Gorton #2. BTW why are you using a 5 year old post? Start a new one for more responses. Looking at your picture, you should be able to get any one of those fittings loose, from the nipple up. Once you get any of them off you can work from a bench vise to build what you need.

nicholas bonham-carter

Try some hammer blows on the wrench, striking in line with the main. Use at least an 18 inch wrench.
As you don’t know which joint is going to give first, get replacements for all of them, and return the ones you haven’t had to use.
Turn off the boiler before the job.—NBC

JUGHNE

PB Blaster or maybe better is Kroil.
I use a dental pick or steel brush to get the top thread opened above the fitting. This gives the spray a head start on penetrating down into the threads.
Twice a day for several days of spraying if possible helps.
Rapping on the female fitting seems to help also, but be careful of the cast iron tee on the main....cast will crack.

coelcanth

one of my old hoffman 75's was very stuck in the main..
heat from a mapp torch plus some penetrant and the big wrench was what got it loose in the end

Thecrow

I apologize for using a 5 year old thread but didn't want to duplicate the question. Another issue is that there is very limited space to get a wrench in due to all the pipes and smoke stack etc. . Maybe I'll try heat, hammer blows and lubricant first. It feels like it's fused together at every point. Wonder if I cut it with Sawzall use a diamond file to get the rest out? They locally in Scranton PA don't sell anything bigger than the Gorton I have I've checked 2 plumbing suppliers. I have about 25 feet of return on this section. Thanks and I'll keep you posted

Thecrow

Thanks to all. Removed this with PB blaster and a Map torch by heating it for about a minute.I also struck it with a 2 pound hammer about 10 times. Cresent wrench took it right off like butter.