Ideal Gas Boiler (American Radiator Company) conversion

mcdave

We are purchasing a 1918 Craftsman in Helena Montana with what may be the original boiler converted from coal to gas after the war;  an Ideal Gas Boiler:



Boiler No. 1-G-7-C



Series No. 15-B



Input Rating 331500 BTU



Steam Sq Ft 1105



Water Sq Ft 1770



The seller has been fantastic and also provided the following info:

"...we had to have the electronic igniter rebuilt (something about the spacing between the points). The only real problems we ever had with the boiler were with the float valve which after draining seemed to "leak" additional water into the boiler,



raising the water level."  He has been very good about maintaining the boiler:

"I've cleaned the boiler before the start of each heating season and



drained/cleaned out the float valve (every two weeks during the



heating season; ~ once a month during the summer)"





I wanted to post the age-old question about whether to upgrade to an efficient steam boiler or bite the bullet and drop the ceiling on the main and install radiant with a mod con power venting boiler.  We really want to demo the chimney to get space for a kitchen remodel.  The house is brick with lots of windows, 1537 sf/floor (3).



I am learning from "Greening Steam" by Dan, but need more advice. Thanks.

vaporvac

Steamperson?

Do you have a competent steam person where you live? It seems a shame to ruin what sounds to be a lovely old ORIGINAL house by dropping the ceilings. Very spendy too I would imagine. I can't see where a new boiler and burner would come any where near the cost. I'm a homeowner like yourself; feel free to ask me about my personal experiences concerning price and what I ended up with in the end via email. the main problem isn't getting a good wet-based boiler with power burner, but getting someone to intall it. However, the instructions are clear so If your installing can't put in steam, I'd be a bit worried about radiant as well.

In a cold place like Montana I would think it's nice not to have to worry about your pipes bursting if you go away on vacation.

I'm also confused concerning the sq ft steam rating and the sq ft of your house.. Is that your measured edr or the rating of the current boiler? Is your total sq ftg @1500 or is that per floor ie. 4500sq ft. ? It's just that the boiler seems overized for a house that's 1500sp ft. do you have one-pipe or two?

Post some pics so the folks here can see what you've got. Colleen

mcdave

answers to questions...

The specs posted on the original post are directly from the mfg plate on the boiler.



Through trusted recommendations, I have Dave Covert from Combustion Services in Great Falls coming in to inspect next week.  He will be part of the closing contingency for home inspection, but I'm sure will make fair recommendation of conversion options, an barring any pitfalls I would use him to do the work.



The specs are directly from the plate on the boiler. 



The House has radiators on the two floors of 1537sf/floor, and the basement is heated by the boiler.



I can't get inside pics until the inspection next week.

Steamhead

If not

get in touch with us. We've been known to do out-of-town consulting.



In a place like Helena, where winter temperatures routinely go into single digits, steam is much more attractive than hot-water. All the radiators and most of the pipes drain dry when the system shuts down, so in an extended power or fuel failure you will run much less risk of freezing damage to the system.



And post some pics of the boiler and the system.

mcdave

two pipe system

The steam system is a two pipe system and i believe the radiators are Thin-tube.

Jamie Hall

The ratings on the boiler

are for what is called "EDR".  Which is a measure of the amount of installed radiation.  What you can do after the closing is take a look at the radiators and add them up -- there are tables on this site, or we can help you with it -- and see what they add up to.  That will be the size of any new boiler you might want to install.



If this is really an original installation, you may be in real luck -- it may not have been "knuckleheaded", or at least not too badly.  In which case, updating the system will be mostly a matter of a new boiler (it will be a lot smaller) and checking vents and traps to make sure they are working right.



As to the chimney.  Um.  That could, potentially, be a problem as any boiler will need to be exhausted to the outside somewhere.  That would require some thought.  It's not a show stopper by any means, but any new boiler installation will require some real thought as to where its stack or vent is going to be, if it isn't going to be the existing chimney.



I wouldn't even consider the radiant/hot water route.  You've got a good thing going there; don't spoil it!

nicholas bonham-carter

Alternative chimney

The existing chimney is probably much larger than needed for a correctly sized modern boiler, and could be replaced with a smaller diameter flue pipe up through the roof. Having a chimney of the correct size would make the boiler more efficient as well.

I would think that the whole chimney will have to be removed from top to bottom, and not just at the kitchen level.--NBC

mcdave2

photos/update

Photos requested  below.  Contractor estimated 198,375 and input of 238,050 btu. 

Measured 8 rads plus spare for EDR.  Please refer formula to calc.



Contractor initially recommends "tune up" including cycle time extender and better vapor stat to get .5-3 pound steam.



Existing system has hartford loop and may show atmospheric vent/trap.

I have more photos of boiler/rads if needed. Thanks.

Steamhead

More, please

the boiler probably dates back to the 1930s or even 1920s.



That looks like a Vapor system from what we see so far. Post some radiator pics so we know what type they are and can direct you to a sizing chart. Also see if you can find any name or trademark on the radiator shutoffs and whatever they used at the radiator return outlet connections, as well as the vent trap with the green vent on top (the vent itself is a Hoffman). All this will help us ID your system.

mcdave2

more pics

as requested

mcdave2

gas use/rad size xls

more info for help with EDR and also gas use in winter.  Thanks

mcdave2

radiator inventory

Room             



height

depth

columns

width inches







livings

20

8

5

81







livingn

20

8

5

50







dining

20

8

5

77







entry

capped in entry















sunroom

capped at main in basement











kitchen

32

8

5

35







master

20

8

5

68







bath

20

8

5

35







guest

20

8

5

63







nbed

20

8

5

68







sbed

20

8

5

50







spare

20

8

5

50

vaporvac

Hoffman

That's interesting that the ven is so similar to that on my trapless Trane vapor/vacuum system; they must have been converging on a similar style for the vapor systems. My huge 1916 coal boiler is also an Ideal as are my rads, and it looks just like the large sectionals pictured under the resources section. I'd be interested to see what those rad valves say. i couldn't make it out.

mcdave2

help with EDR

Can anyone confirm that the replacement steam ng boiler would need an output of 258K here in Helena at 4K ft elevation?



Room height depth columns width sections

livings 20 8 5 81 33

livingn 20 8 5 50 21

dining 20 8 5 77 32



kitchen 32 8 5 35 15

master 20 8 5 68 28

bath 20 8 5 35 15

guest 20 8 5 63 26

nbed 20 8 5 68 28

sbed 20 8 5 50 21



Thanks