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signing a contract for first time...
H3809
Member Posts: 19
A bit off subject, Newish owner of a one pipe steam system, and a habitual luker on the wall. I've learned alot from here and I'm amazed of what people did wrong to my current system over the years...
We are doing the big gas conversion, (boiler, heat exchanger, adding hotwater zone, indirect domestic, setting up for future hotwater zones, moving steam rads and fixing all the "steam improvement" previous owners did)
I found a reputable contractor (thanks to the Find a Contractor link), [i wouldn't be surprised if they are reading this post....] going to sign the contract soon. Any things that I should be sure are on the contract to ensure i'm getting what I pay for?
For example ensure a VTX auto water feeder, pipes that aren't hung are re-hung. (i'll insulate myself) Should anything about comfort be included? Its a big project (in cash and scope) and I want to sure I'm not missing something. Its my first time doing a home improvement contract...
Thank you in advance
We are doing the big gas conversion, (boiler, heat exchanger, adding hotwater zone, indirect domestic, setting up for future hotwater zones, moving steam rads and fixing all the "steam improvement" previous owners did)
I found a reputable contractor (thanks to the Find a Contractor link), [i wouldn't be surprised if they are reading this post....] going to sign the contract soon. Any things that I should be sure are on the contract to ensure i'm getting what I pay for?
For example ensure a VTX auto water feeder, pipes that aren't hung are re-hung. (i'll insulate myself) Should anything about comfort be included? Its a big project (in cash and scope) and I want to sure I'm not missing something. Its my first time doing a home improvement contract...
Thank you in advance
0
Comments
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new boiler project
double-check the edr of your radiators, and get a low-pressure gauge [0-3 psi] put on alongside the 0-30psi useless Xmas tree ornament. this will tell you when you have enough main [not rad] venting.
you may also have problems with the standard supplied pressuretrol [also a useless paperweight] in getting it to go low enough, although if the edr calculations are correct, the pressure may not build past a few ounces on a really cold design day temperature. otherwise a vaporstat is better.
some ball valves in the wet return would aid in mud flushing.--nbc0 -
Prior thread
There was a prior thread addressing just this issue. Can't remember if it was under steam or the main wall. You might want to start with steam since that's probably where I saw it. NBC may have started it. I'll look later if I have a chance, but my home computer is fried. CTD
I did a quick search of the Wall under "contract" and I'm sure there's alot of useful info under just that search. I believe the thread in question is on the 1st page, but there is some good advice to be gleaned from a quick look at many of them.Two-pipe Trane vaporvacuum system; 1466 edr
Twinned, staged Slantfin TR50s piped into 4" header with Riello G400 burners; 240K lead, 200K lag Btus. Controlled by Taco Relay and Honeywell RTH6580WF0 -
Steam
Make sure the piping will be black threaded pipe and fittings. We always install an oversized drop header, Vaporstat, and maxxed out main venting on every job, too.0 -
A good place to start
Is close at hand http://www.heatinghelp.com/article/236/For-Homeowners/1490/How-to-have-a-boiler-replaced-without-getting-steamed0
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