Radiator Hot, Thermostat Off WHY?? Triangle Tube Prestige Excellence

FirstTimeOwner

Hi everyone. I have a bit of a concern. I've got a Triangle Tube Prestige Excellence (natural gas) system installed in early 2010. I've noticed when the thermostat is set to "off" the radiators are still being heated. It also continues to heat beyond the temp set on the thermostat when the thermostat is set to "heat". When the system kicks on in this situation (note: there is not water being used at all in the house in this situation), it's in the mode of DHW (4 on the screen). It doesn't fire in the mode of calling for central heating (3 on the screen)...why are my radiators getting this hot water? Could there be some sort of valve or component not working properly? Is there something internally that is supposed to block the heated water from heading to the radiators? My gas bills are double what they usually are this time of year and with the warmer weather coming, I may have to sleep outside where it's cooler. Also noticed there is corrosion around the automatic air vent (pics included). I've also notice a pool of water surrounding it once. Should I be worried? Thanks for you input.

Zman

Stuck Valve

It sounds like the diverting valve that changes the boiler from DHW to heating is not working correctly.

The bigger concern is that I do not see the boiler pressure relief valve or the dhw T&P valve. These are major safety components. If you take picture of the entire top of the boiler it would help.

FirstTimeOwner

Re: Stuck Valve

Thanks Zman. Here's are a few other images.  Would the diverter value you mentioned be the circulator? What purpose does the actuator serve?

Tom_133

First time

In the front of the unit with the cover off you see a gray honeywell box with the 3 copper lines going into it, thats the 3 way diverter valve. It basically switches from domestic water heating to space heating. I believe when the boiler is just sitting and waiting the 3 way is in heat mode, I may wrong it's been awhile since I worked on a TT.

SWEI

water quality

That leaking air vent is connected to the indirect.  Based on its condition, I'd be a bit concerned about the pH and chloride content of your domestic water.  Where are you locate?  Are you on a well?

Slimpickins

oops

I wish I could have deleted my first post but don't know how. I didn't realize it was an Excellence. Heatpro and zman are right, get an expert in there. There isn't a PRV on the DHW and that is verrrry dangerous. You need a mixing valve and potable expansion tank too for the DHW. Also the heat side expansion tank looks like it's in the wrong place. It should be on the inlet of the boiler side because when the diverter valve is in DHW, it isolates the expansion tank and you have no thermal expansion protection. This is a pretty dangerous situation. Sorry I gave bad advice without really looking at the original post very well. Thanks for the backup Heatpro and Zman.

FirstTimeOwner

RE:

Thanks everyone. I'll see if I can get someone out to check on it. Wanted to have an idea of what I was dealing with. I'll try turning the temp down for DHW to see what happens. I'm on a city water supply, no well. Appreciate the feedback.

Zman

T&p

I don't see a t&p on the domestic water.

heatpro02920

First time

did a licensed pro install this, if so its disgusting, first off piped by that window like that contractor should be ashamed... Never mind the everything else.. I have done some excellence boilers, they are the trimax but they look very similar.. I come off with dielectric unions, a vac breaker, mixing valve, I install a thermal x tank, back flow, heat trap both sides and make sure everything is supported and has iso valves... That install is just bare bones and not up to code...



That rusty mess should be redone, it would be worth it for you to get a pro in there that will do it rite, its an absolute shame that you boiler is less than 3 years old and looks like that... It probably wont be cheap, but have someone come in and fix it, if it were me I would take it all apart, clean the top of the boiler, repaint it white, t-tape and dope everything up, 90* that pex at the ceiling and bring all the dhw components {thermal tank, mixing valve, vac brker, ect} down the other side of the unit and then back up to the ceiling...



As far as the zones getting hot, I would have to say the internal valve is sticking, crudded up, or just faulty... Is there a 3 speed circ in the unit? what is it set at?

FirstTimeOwner

RE: heatpro02920 & Slimpickins

Yes. It was installed by a pro. I feel the same about its condition for its age. I'm not sure about a 3 speed circulator, but there is a circulator. I may have gone with the wrong company for the install as I'm now finding out they have only installed a few of these as is evident by my two service call experiences. Now by "not cheap" do you mean it will be relative to my cost of the initial labor installation charge for the system?

*

Is this all in the installation manual? I saw the tech using it/referring to it upon installation. It doesn't seem logical that a tech would not follow installation recommendations directly from a manual. This was in early 2010.

*

There is mention of this current setup being dangerous. What are the possible results should something go wrong? I have been wondering if something failed whether I would be dealing with a scalding water hazard & not being able to directly access it to shut off water/boiler.

Zman

Logic?

There is nothing logical about knucklehead installers (that's what you had).

Pressure relief valves are installed to prevent explosions. You are missing one. Aside from that the install is really sloppy (and leaky).

I would find a local company that understands your boiler and have them straighten it out. Anyone that comes to look at your setup and does not insist on a T&P on the domestic is not qualified. Triangle Tube has excellent support if you need more backup.

Carl