MEGALOCK FAIL!!

jonny88

I think at the end of the day you get to know what works best for you and what doesn't.My reference is prodope,we dont use teflon on gas.its all about the thread.But I am with Hatterasguy how can you justify the price.It is tough enough out there as it is.

EBEBRATT-Ed

We usually use teflon tape (reg. or monster) and Rectorseal True Blue. I also like "Key Tite" the green stuff. I like the True Blue but it's hard to get off your hands. Key Tite comes off easier.

The trick is to use some dope (just fill the first three or four threads) on the INSIDE THREADS.

Read the can of TRUE BLUE, it says to dope the inside on 1 1/4" and up. We have tested threaded pipe at 100 psi when we had to and seldom have a leak

icesailor

I did a heating job once. The owner's BIL did the gas. I was working away and the BIL tested the gas and had a leak on a fitting. He fixed it and tested it again. The next morning, no pressure. Same leak, same fix. I told him to use T-Tape. "No way will I use that junk". Suit yourself. Next day, no pressure, same place. Same advice. Try some T-Tape. Same reply. "Ship is junk".

On the third try at testing, it was still leaking after he left for the day. I got PO'ed and tired of listening to him. So, I took it apart and teflon'ed it up. No leak. The next day, he pointed out to me that he fixed the leak without using that crappy Teflon Tape. I agreed with him. After four tries, it was fixed. Good thing he didn't use tape.

hot_rod

I think it depends on how much you are applying, just like solder flux.

Which is why I always like Mark Eathertons sponge method for flux.

Same with PVC or ABS glue.

I prefer outside only for tape and dope, maybe a thin layer on a thread or two on the large stuff, if that is what the manufacturer has tested and recommends.

I will agree when products get sent back as failures it is often because of something that was put inside the pipe and fittings during installation that caused the failure.

To build accurate, efficient, top performing, long lasting valves and components requires tight tolerances and fit.

Thermostatic, zone and balance valves are good examples. If you start filling those tight spaces with flux, solar balls, copper chips, or pipe dope, mineral build up, etc, things can go bad and cause problems in a hurry.

Just say NO to excessive dope.

Larry_52

Hatterasguy said:

I said it after I saw the price. Nobody could ever justify it unless nothing else worked.

Agreed, but it will work (every time) when all else fails and replacement is not an option, plus I think it comes in tubes. Buying a quart with a one year shelf life isn't cost effective for a one time job.

Larry_52

It happens, and now you know another option when it does. Personally used it on galled stainless compression fitting threads, cast iron cracked thread bosses. the situations warranted the fix and it really is that good. I didn't believe it either when it was presented to me.

Larry_52

where I work we tend to use it to polish turds. just used it on a greyloc connector that was cut. That toothpaste tube of it saved us thousands of dollars.

Larry_52

And it is not really like jb weld. one it can be removed as one would normally separate the piece and it is meant for the temp. it kinda acts like permatex #2 on steroids. Just looked up a tube, it's about 50 bucks.

Larry_52

it lasts, first intro to it was a bad turbine case. lasted 5 yrs until next over haul then not to out do ourselves we used it again instead of actually fixing the problem. Bottom dollar industry.

icesailor

@hot rod:

"" Just say NO to excessive dope. ""

Same applies to excessive and improperly applied PTFE tape.

If 1/2" to 2" threaded pipe only have a 1/2" make in, and you are supposed to start the tape after the first full thread, why would you wind tape all the way to the end of the thread, 3/4"+ from the end? Wasted and mis-applied tape.

SWEI

hot rod said:

Yeah, straight threads aren't going away. They really are the best, and only connection for a lot of applications.

Agreed, once you learn how to work with them.

The best trick I have learned is to use Loctite. A few drops is all you need, even on ugly ripped threads it generally seals.

I learned from Myson, who ship Loctite 565 (300°F) with all their radiators. Triangle Tube now ships 567 (400°F) with their indirects (pretty sure that was not the case a few years back) along with a stern warning about not using other sealants. After looking at the prices on Loctite, a bit of digging came up with this at about 1/3rd the price (and also good for 400°F.) Works great on tapered threads as well. Once you remove the requirement to tighten all the way to leak-proof-ness (especially on worn or substandard threads) you have a lot more freedom to adjust.

hot_rod

"cures to a vibration proof polymer shim" That's a mouthful:0

Looks like a paste version of teflon tape?

Unique about the Loctite products is they harden in the absence of O2, anaerobic I think is the term. Any left outside the joint needs to be wiped off or it stays liquid.

It also cures amazingly quick. We air test assemblies to 150psi, minutes after the parts are assembled!

It's super glue basically.

SWEI

The FPPI product is an anaerobic thread locker. It even smells similar to the 565.

ALNY

Just to update, the boiler leaks eventually stopped on their own. Must have use that speacial rust, and seal technique. Even after cranking the system for testing, all was well. Been good ever since, 2 years now.. Pressuretrol, etc were all functional.

ChrisJ

ALNY said:

Just to update, the boiler leaks eventually stopped on their own. Must have use that speacial rust, and seal technique. Even after cranking the system for testing, all was well. Been good ever since, 2 years now.. Pressuretrol, etc were all functional.

I've heard this is why they intentionally used cast iron fittings on sprinkler systems for this reason.

Dave0176

Use Monster tape and Megaloc on every fitting on every single install and threaded fitting I've done, never a leak..................