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New Gas valve receiving 24v wont open

YnotjudeYnotjude Posts: 9Member
Hi everyone, I have an ongoing problem that apparently local techs cannot figure out. My heater has a new gas valve and circuit board, its a goodman ol dependable. It has been igniting randomly for 2 weeks now. So far an additional new gas valve has been installed. A new regulator has been installed outside by the gas man and he pressure checked for any leaks, there are none. I have 7.4 in of pressure outside at the meter and inside at the heater. The gas valve opens when it is jumped directly from the board but not when hooked up normal. Directly from the board it is producing 27v and the voltage at the gas valve is 25-26.8v. Everything is working properly on the heater and the gas valve opens when jumped but not through normal wiring, even with same voltage. Yet another new gas valve was tested today and displayed same behavior, opens when jumped not thru normal wiring even though its receiving 24v at both locations. Heating sequence, blower, pressure switch, everything seems fine. Error code is 1 blink "failure to ignite". Please help house is cold driving me & techs nuts. Thanks in advance!!

Comments

  • Tim McElwainTim McElwain Posts: 4,281Member
    edited January 2013
    Identify the board numbers and

    the gas valve numbers along with the model and serial number of the furnace.



    Do you have a good ground connection for the board to gas valve connection?



    It looks like everyone is throwing parts at the problem which tells me they do not know what the are doing. It sounds like something is wired incorrectly so getting numbers of the valve and board I can tell you how it should be wired.



    Is the pressure switch moving from Common to Normally Closed over to Normally Open (SPDT switch) which is how power gets dirtectly to the gas valve?
  • YnotjudeYnotjude Posts: 9Member
    Help

    The heater works randomly. I woke up this morning and it was working but it is not consistent. Like i said the volts are same jumped & and through normal wiring but sometimes it must not open for whatever reason.



    Goodman the dependable ninety-two

    Model # GMPN100-4

    Year seems to be 1993



    Yes honeywell small gray gas valve. One was replaced in march, the second a week or two ago. Yes the switch is in ON position. Valve #3 was never installed so not too waste a valve & used for testing purposes only.



    The valve is upright with the on/off switch pointing towards the ceiling. The numbers off the side are PN -VR8215S1214 & 0151M00013. I woke up this morning and the heater was randomly working again, by the time i got downstairs it had shut off. When it tries to cycle and doesnt work it gives an error code of 1 blink, failure to ignite.



    Thanks for your help
  • YnotjudeYnotjude Posts: 9Member
    Ground/press switch

    Hi, im not sure about the ground or how to check it, but that was one of my first thoughts although it makes me wonder how it lights at all if the ground is broken. It got down to -17 the other night & the drain pipe froze which did get some water into the pressure switch but i drained it and have not gotten that error code since then.at first it was stuck closed then open but a drain and light tapping fixed it.



    I do not see any #s on the board itself but it was replaced in march. It is currently giving an error code of 1 blink -failure to ignite. So it has go back to error from when it was working this am.
  • SlimpickinsSlimpickins Posts: 322Member
    ignitor assembly

    Was the ignitor assembly replaced when the Smart Valve was replaced?
  • YnotjudeYnotjude Posts: 9Member
    Ignitor assembly

    Not sure what a smart valve is, the gas valve was changed. The ignitor fires up no problem.The heater ran this morning, its just not consistent.
  • SlimpickinsSlimpickins Posts: 322Member
    oops

    I misread your earlier post when you said Honeywell small gray box. I should have know that Goodman has never used Smart Valves.
  • YnotjudeYnotjude Posts: 9Member
    Spark

    I wiggled some of the wires around to see if that would help. It didnt do anything in the cycle but later it kicked on by itself. There are two white shielded looking wires that screw into a plate directly behind the gas valve, i dont think its a switch or breaker. Anyway whatever it is when i wiggled these tow wires that have a seperate plug that connects into the main plug it sparked pretty good. Is this normal? Could this be the problem, what are these wires connected to?
  • Paul S_3Paul S_3 Posts: 1,257Member
    its best to

    have a professional do this.....if the current company cannot fix....ask for the most seasoned guy or call another company.....any good service company will fix your problem

                        Paul S
    ASM Mechanical Company
    Located in Staten Island NY
    Servicing all 5 boroughs of NYC.
    347-692-4777
    [email protected]AIL.COM
    ASMHVACNYC.COM
    https://heatinghelp.com/find-a-contractor/detail/asm-mechanical-company
  • Tim McElwainTim McElwain Posts: 4,281Member
    That gas valve is

    a special version of the Honeywell VR8200 Series. It is proprietary to the manufacturer. If I had some idea what electronic board you have I could give you some direction. A wiring diagram would also help. I agree you need to get a local HVAC company that services your particular furnace to look at it.
  • YnotjudeYnotjude Posts: 9Member
    Tech/valve

    The local tech came about 5xs and then basically told me they didnt have a solution for me. How do i see what type of board i have? Are you saying i should be using a specific type of honeywell valve?
  • YnotjudeYnotjude Posts: 9Member
    Pics valve/circuit/schematic

    Here are the pics hope this helps. The heater is still trying to fire up, still one blink error code. I hope this helps, dont know who to call at this point.









  • YnotjudeYnotjude Posts: 9Member
    Valve ground?

    Is it possible the heater is not grounded properly? Hence the valve opening from the board but not the normal wiring?
  • unclejohnunclejohn Posts: 1,420Member
    Seems Like A standard

    110v HSI and 24v gas valve. Are you or the service tech checking voltage at the valve with the wires connected? Or are you checking for 24v with the wires off the valve. If you check with the wires off and have the 24 connect the wires to the valve and see if the voltage goes away. If it does you have a lose connection or bad gas valve relay on your board. Strip a bare spot on the wires to the valve if you have to.
  • YnotjudeYnotjude Posts: 9Member
    Yes 24v with wires connectec

    Yes the valve was tested with wires connected. Still no heat. The furnace did run for a couple days last week normally and now has stopped again. Anyone have any ideas? Please help, cold. Thanks
  • SlimpickinsSlimpickins Posts: 322Member
    Idea

    This is not rocket surgery. Call back the company you used and tell them to send their top tech out. I would also be looking at the heat exchanger of that particular furnace and make sure it's not cracked before putting time and money into it. It's already twenty years old which is beyond the expected service life. I would recommend replacing it.
  • JStarJStar Posts: 2,668Member
    Heat

    Where are you located?



    You could have proper voltage, but low amperage due to failed contacts somewhere in the circuit.
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