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new hot water system design
jonny23
Member Posts: 19
I am a homeowner, not a pro. I need to upgrade my heating system and want to switch from an old gas fired steam system to a hot water mod-con baseboard system. I have been reading this site and trying to learn as much as I can but need some pro advice on my system design so I know what I'm talking about when interviewing contractors. I have done a heat loss myself accounting for new dense pack cellulose that will be blown in this winter. I will be putting in replacement windows this summer. My plan is to install an indirect hot water tank to the system as well. Here are my heat loss numbers:
Winter Outdoor Design Temp: 9
Winter Indoor Design Temp: 72
House heat loss approx. 30,000 btu
Zone 1 - First Floor
Living Room West - 3,646
Living Room East - 5,114
Entry Foyer & First Floor Stairway - 2,188
Dining Room - 5,187
Kitchen - 3,994
Zone 2
Bathroom - 1,105
North Bedroom - 2,893
Zone 3
Bedroom East - 1,584
Bedroom West - 3,405
What I want to know is what size should the boiler and hot water tank be?
How should I size my baseboard based on these btu numbers from the heat loss? Is there a recommended gpm and water temperature for the baseboard loops?
I am looking at Heating Edge high output baseboard with top supply bottom return. I want to design the system so it is maximizing its potential for high efficiency. I'm not totally convinced that the contractors I've spoken with so far have this in mind and don't want to spend the money for a high efficiency boiler and find out the install or system design prevents it from operating at full potential.
Winter Outdoor Design Temp: 9
Winter Indoor Design Temp: 72
House heat loss approx. 30,000 btu
Zone 1 - First Floor
Living Room West - 3,646
Living Room East - 5,114
Entry Foyer & First Floor Stairway - 2,188
Dining Room - 5,187
Kitchen - 3,994
Zone 2
Bathroom - 1,105
North Bedroom - 2,893
Zone 3
Bedroom East - 1,584
Bedroom West - 3,405
What I want to know is what size should the boiler and hot water tank be?
How should I size my baseboard based on these btu numbers from the heat loss? Is there a recommended gpm and water temperature for the baseboard loops?
I am looking at Heating Edge high output baseboard with top supply bottom return. I want to design the system so it is maximizing its potential for high efficiency. I'm not totally convinced that the contractors I've spoken with so far have this in mind and don't want to spend the money for a high efficiency boiler and find out the install or system design prevents it from operating at full potential.
0
Comments
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Micro-zones
Four and 5000 btu zones will give you nothing but grief. Control the heat for the bedrooms with TRV's and let the mod/con handle the structure. Add 20% to the heat loss for bathrooms.0 -
split 2nd floor zone
I was originally thinking of splitting a single zone for the entire 2nd floor with a run from the basement for the east and west bedroom and a separate run for the north bedroom and bathroom. One plumber I spoke with said I might get problems with air trapped in the system and recommended against it. Are there major issues with doing it this way?0 -
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control of 2nd floor
independent control of 2nd floor and first floor temps. would you suggest something different?0 -
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boiler
Are you installing modulating boiler or just want to upgrade heating system?Gennady Tsakh
Absolute Mechanical Co. Inc.0 -
Why?
What is wrong with the steam system, other than the boiler being old. I have a small home with a gas fired steam boiler. The temps are very even throughout the house and operating costs are low. According to my figures since installing the new boiler 4 years it has been running me approx $825 a year to heat the house. Have you considered making the steam system right before investing a lot of money in a new heating system?0 -
TRV's
You can install TRV's on the rads in steam system and have control over the temp in every room. The only rad that can't have a TRV is the one in the room with the Thermostat.0 -
steam issue
i have. several rads were pulled during renovations at some point. I just moved into the house last april. There is no steam piping or place for a radiator in the kitchen or the bathroom. In its current state it is insufficient to heat the house properly and the boiler needs replacement. If it was simply the boiler I would stick with the steam system as I love the heat the radiators put out.0 -
incentives
so then we get to incentives. i get rebates for the boiler and hot water tank and the price to replace the steam system then becomes close to what it would cost to just replace the steam boiler, which regardless of cost doesn't make sense as far as future comfort. see reply below.0 -
mod
installing mod con boiler0 -
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Steam System
It is a shame that the steam system in your house has been ruined. I can't help with mod con system as a now nothing about them.0 -
alternative
What is the alternative system design? I am not a professional so help me understand what you are implying.0 -
Zoning
Zoning was a means of controlling comfort for conventional boilers.No offense, but you are stuck in that mentality, and you have to lose that. Mod/cons work best when allowed to control the temperature of the whole structure. You are in the perfect situation, because you are installing the radiation.You can ensure the proper amount based on heat loss of each room. The 2 major problems I see here are people with over-sized mod/cons and those that have chopped the house up into zones. If you like sleeping in cooler bedrooms, use TRVs for them. Mod/cons do not handle deep temperature set-backs. If you let the whole structure get to 55*, the mod/con doesn't know that. My 2 cents0 -
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no zones
So one thermostat would control the 3 loops for the baseboard runs?0 -
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OK
No offense taken. Thanks for the explanation. I'm just trying to learn here and gain some knowledge about optimal system design for my situation. So say I go with no zones as suggested . . . the 2 loops to the 2nd floor are still needed as is the 1 for the first floor. Does each loop still have its own pump that gets triggered when the boiler gets a call for heat? Like I said I am not a professional. And if there is no need for a thermostat as Gennady states is this because there is an indoor temp sensor installed with the system and desired temp is set at the boiler panel?0 -
pumps
you can have pumps for each zone or one pump for whole system. just pumps must be the right one, to provide proper GPM and head. contemporary systems are constant flow system. temperature of the water is determined by outdoor reset. There is no call for heat system operates 24/7 , except warm weather shutdown.Gennady Tsakh
Absolute Mechanical Co. Inc.0 -
sensor
there is outdoor sensor. it tells boiler what temperature of the water to the heating system should be.Gennady Tsakh
Absolute Mechanical Co. Inc.0 -
No thermostat?
How does an outdoor reset control indoor temperature and account for any heat gain through windows or added heat loss caused by wind?0 -
30 mBtu ?
If your house is really that well insulated, I'd research electric radiant.0 -
variations
Variations in load can be controlled by TRVs or , when i install complete system with reversed return, i use deltaT pumps.Gennady Tsakh
Absolute Mechanical Co. Inc.0 -
indoor reset
I was thinking about using indoor reset as well. Probably on next project.Gennady Tsakh
Absolute Mechanical Co. Inc.0 -
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