Not sure what the problem is.....

rmsongs

We have an oil-fired forced hot water heating system. One of our zones (Taco zone valves) isn't calling for heat no matter how high I set the thermostat. At the same time, our new Amtrol Boilermate (replacement) keeps giving me an ER2 message (water temp. over 150; it was set at 130 and, after the first time I got the error message, I reset it at 115). I read on the Amtrol site that a zone valve problem can cause the high temp in the Boilermate. They also mentioned that it could be a bad check valve. When the new tank was installed, the plumber cut out the old check valve (which wasn't working properly), but didn't put in a new one. So I don't know if I have a zone valve problem, a missing check valve problem, a Boilermate problem, or a thermostat problem. I also don't know if I should call the boiler company or the plumber who installed the Boilermate. Any advice would be appreciated.

JStar

Heat

Sounds like a bad zone valve. D you have any pictures of the boiler and piping?

Zman

Zone valve

I would start by turning up one t-stat at a time. Note whether the correct valve is opening. It is possible the plumber swapped some wires which is causing the wrong valve to open. As for the check valve question, post a picture. Sometimes you need one sometimes not.

Carl

rmsongs

Not sure what the problem is.....

I swapped the head on the zone valve for one that I know works and I'm still not getting heat to that zone, although the pipe leading up to the zone valve is a little warmer than it was before. The pipe after the zone valve is still cold.

rmsongs

Not sure what the problem is.....

The first one is (I think) the circulators on the boiler, the second one is the zone valve that I put in (I know this one works) and the third one is the pipe leaving the boiler that goes up to the Xtrol tank and then splits. One split goes to the zone that's not working. The pipe coming out of the boiler is very hot up to the Xtrol, then it gets cool within a couple of feet - well before the zone valve.

rmsongs

Not sure what the problem is.....

This is where the check valve was before the Boilermate was replaced.

billtwocase

because it is zoned by a circ

It needs a flow check. Maybe he left a valve closed to that zone? I would start with him. He was the man paid to do the service. It worked before he was there?

rmsongs

Not sure what the problem is.....

Funny you should mention a valve being closed, because when I was checking it out earlier I found that the shut-off to that zone had been left closed. Thanks for the info. I'll have to give him a call.

kcopp

air locked?

if it was just replaced maybe some air got in the loop.

rmsongs

Not sure what the problem is.....

It was installed on 10/9/12 and had been working fine until this weekend. I think the problem started when I turned on one of the thermostats. One zone is working fine, but the other one won't heat up; the pipe between the boiler and the Boilermate is hot, and the pipe between the Boilermate and the Xtrol tank is hot, but right after that expansion tank, it's barely warm and, by the time it gets to the zone valve, it's almost cold. I thought the problem only occurred when that thermostat was on, but I turned the thermostat off this afternoon and the alarm on the Boilermate started going off again tonight.



I feel like the more I try to explain this, the more complicated I make it. I hope you can figure out what I'm trying to say, because I don't think I'm explaining it clearly. I really thought it was going to be that zone valve that won't send heat, but that doesn't seem to be it. Then I thought it must be the thermostat for that zone, but that doesn't seem to be it, either. I'm wondering if not having a check valve could be causing all this, but if that's the problem, why would it run for 3 weeks without any issues?

JStar

Heat

Those Taco zone valves are notrious for rusting shut. The power head may work, but the actual valve in the body won't open. Take the head off and try to squeeze the plunger down on the body.

rmsongs

Not sure what the problem is.....

OK, I just tried to push it down and it didn't move at all. But, then I took the head off the valve that's working perfectly and I couldn't push that one down either. Now what? This gets worse by the minute.

JStar

Valve

You can't push it by hand. I use a pair of channel-locks to do it. Does the faulty zone have a lot of rust on the valve body?

rmsongs

Not sure what the problem is.....

Oh, I tried to do it by hand. I'll try it again. And yes, that one does have a lot of rust on it.

Zman

Pictures?

You may well have a stuck valve. It does not explain all your problems or the timing of it.

Are your pumps turning on as they should?

Could your take a picture of the entire system?

Carl

billtwocase

I would be careful

if the power head is getting power to it, and you just twist it off without removing #1 wire, or turning the thermostat down for a while, you could be burned from the hot wax, and find the brass plunger across the room. Call the installer back

icesailor

Being Careful:

Bill is right. Read the note in the instructions and on the power head. About removing the power to the head (or removing the #1 or top wire on the head) for a minimum of two minutes before removing it.

Back years ago, before they added a safety plate to the bottom on the old green power heads and some early gold ones, the plunger could blow out with the force of a bullet from a pistol. My old boss almost shot himself in the face doing that. He turned it away just before it blew out. He had no idea that it would do that. I knew it could do it. I read the instructions.

It is difficult to tell if the plunger is going down. And if it isn't, it can ruin the motor/head. You can't always tell by pushing the manual lever down. If you remove the #1 wire from the head for the 2+ minutes, and remove the power head, you need at least a 14" set of channel locks. Push the plunger down by putting one end of the pliers on the bottom of the valve and the other on the power head plunger. It should go down with a good squeeze. If it doesn't go down, spray it with Kroil and leave it overnight. Try it until you can get it to go down. If it is sticking, you can replace the plunger. The plunger costs almost as much as the whole valve. Buy a new valve. Try to remove each screw, ONE AT A TIME!!. If you are able to get each screw out on an individual basis, you can replace the plunger. If you can not get a screw out, replace the whole valve unless you are a dedicated tinkerer,

If you get that far, ask and I/we will tell you more.