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Burnham Revolution RV4NSL-L2 Won't Fire

mike_clmike_cl Posts: 9Member
Power outage last night.  A couple surges before it came back on and then no hot water this morning (indirect water tank). 



No power at at the boiler.  Look inside and the VS-3000 circ control board was fried.  Went out and bought a new one.  Boiler now comes to life electrically, and the circ pumps start doing their thing, but the boiler will NOT fire.  I replaced the Aquastat L8148E last year after about 7 years of service.  It looks fine, although the relay seems a little temperamental (buzzes sometimes until you tap it). The relay pops out when I supply power to the system but it never fires up.  Just pushes cold water around.



I read somewhere that jumping the T and TV terminals should fire the boiler.  They did not.  Where do I go form here?



No hot water is NOT fun it the wife and kids looking at me like "fix it!"!  I'll even take a temporary tip on how to manually run it to store some water in the tank until I can get this troubleshooting done



Thanks in advance. 

Mike

Comments

  • JStarJStar Posts: 2,668Member
    Test

    Could be a limit or switch is open. The circulator will run, but the gas valve will not energize. Start testing all of the safeties.
  • mike_clmike_cl Posts: 9Member
    how? ;)

    Thanks for the quick response.  No idea where to begin with that. Can

    you give me some direction?  I'm an engineer by trade, am pretty well

    versed in plumbing and do all my own. I installed this system myself

    with my brother in law performing the gas hookup (and inspecting my

    work).  I have not done much inside the boiler other than to replace a

    defective variable circ pump, the VS-300 today,  and the Aquastat relay

    last year.  I tell  you this just so we are clear on my background. 

    Call me knowledgeable and skilled, but not a pro.



    There doesn't

    seem to be much else inside the beast.  If it's the gas side of things

    I'd leave that to the pro's (unless there is a simple test can do) but

    I'd like to rule out the aquastat or anything else I can first.



    -Mike
  • JStarJStar Posts: 2,668Member
    Test

    Can you read a wiring diagram, and have a meter? If so, just follow the path of power and see where it stops giving you voltage to ground/common.
  • icesailoricesailor Posts: 7,265Member
    No gas fire:

    Sounds to me like the gas valve may be fried.

    If the power surge involved getting a hot neutral, reverse polarity or power in the neutral and hot leg can do serious things to modern controls. Like solenoid coils.

    You need to get out the mufti-tester and see where the power goes. And you will probably need a competent professional.

    Power surges can be a very bad thing.
  • Paul48Paul48 Posts: 4,492Member
    edited September 2012
    Vent Damper

    Are you using a vent damper? If you're not using one, and the fuse in the L8148E blew, the boiler won't run.
  • mike_clmike_cl Posts: 9Member
    fuse?

    No damper, unless it's internal and I am unaware of it. 



    As for the fuse, I don't see one. Where is it located? I don't see it in the docs either.



    There is certainly power in the L8148Ebecasue the relay is triggering.  Nothing is happening downstream though.
  • mike_clmike_cl Posts: 9Member
    Gas Valve

    Well if it's not the aquastat I guess there is not much else it could be.  I will get the meter out just to see if I can trace it down, but it sounds like it may be time to put in a call, unless there is something else I can check.
  • Tim McElwainTim McElwain Posts: 4,248Member
    That boiler typically

    has the Honeywell SmartValve for a gas valve. See if the igniter at the pilot is glowing and if the pilot is lighting. The pilot harness plug in when the pilot is pulled with power on should have 24 volts at the connectors for the two blue wires, if not then check the transformer for 24 volts on the secondary. If no power then check 120 volts if you have 120 volts and no 24 the transformer is fried.
  • mike_clmike_cl Posts: 9Member
    Voltage Test

    Thanks Tim.  I will check that in a moment..  I just checked the other harness that goes to the gas valve.  It has a Pink, a Blue and  a Yellow. All three of course go to the aquastat



    Blue goes to B1 = 5v

    Yellow goes to B2 = 0v

    Pink goes to to W = 24v



    Not sure if these numbers are right.
  • Tim McElwainTim McElwain Posts: 4,248Member
    You should with the relay

    energized have 24 volts at B1 and B2 if not then the transformer in the relay is bad.
  • mike_clmike_cl Posts: 9Member
    Voltage Test -more

    Hmmm.. OK.. Transformer has 24 v.  Looking at the gas valve, the leftmost blue contact reads 24 v, the one to the right of that reads 0v
  • mike_clmike_cl Posts: 9Member
    and..

    I don't see any signs of life in the firebox
  • mike_clmike_cl Posts: 9Member
    oh, wait

    How exactly should I test the transformer?  I tested each lead to ground, and one of the leads reads 0v when I do that
  • mike_clmike_cl Posts: 9Member
    But...

    B2 is wired to ground in this unit, so I would not expect voltage there, unless I am testing it wrong.  
  • Tim McElwainTim McElwain Posts: 4,248Member
    Put the meter right on

    B1 and B2 and look for 24 volts. If you have it there follow the wires to the gas valve and pull the plug and check those wires. B2 is common so you should have 24 volts from the B2 wire to both wires at the gas valve. If you do and the valve is not working as another check make sure the switch on the valve is in the correct position. Then what are the numbers on the gas valve? It should be SV something!
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