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Utica DV-200A will no run with door on

zwulfkezwulfke Posts: 8Member

I installed a utica DV-200A and have an interesting issue. whe you turn on the unit the pilot will light and after about 2 min it will shut off. if you remove the door for

the flame box you can get one of the burners to light and with a little coaxing the other 4 will too. if you replace the cover it will shut down. Currently I have it hooked up with no dampener. Would this cause the issue ?? I have seen this model hooked up with oh one before and it was running fine.


  • JStarJStar Posts: 2,752Member
    edited August 2012

    Are you pinching the pressure switch hose? Any loose wires?

    Is the venting correct?

    Are the flue passages blocked?
  • Tim McElwainTim McElwain Posts: 4,334Member
    By Dampener I assume you mean vent damper

    is that correct? Was a damper connected previously to this unit?

    I assume this is a spark ignition system with the flame being proven by flame rectification, if so what are you getting for microamps when the pilot is lit?

    Try taking the wire off MV terminal on the module and see if the pilot will stay lit. If it will then you may have the need to pull the burners and make sure they are clean so you get complete ignition. If after doing that the pilot goes out pull the pilot ands clean the orifice and the flame sensing rod.
  • zwulfkezwulfke Posts: 8Member
    After lookim

    The flue is clear and the pressure sensing switch works fine . Looks like the whole pilot assy may be bad if you put the door on the pilot flickers and the unit shuts down I am ordering a new assy. If that does not work I may try the gas valve
  • Tim McElwainTim McElwain Posts: 4,334Member
    You are throwing parts

    at a problem that will never work. Do you have a multi-meter and a combustion tester?

    Do you have sufficient air for combustion in the room?

    What is your draft?

    Did you try what I suggested above?
  • JStarJStar Posts: 2,752Member

    Everything works fine, until the door is on, yet you suspect the pilot assembly? Why not replace the door then?

    Listen to Tim. Test and observe. Then replace.
  • zwulfkezwulfke Posts: 8Member
    edited September 2012


    I am Not without some experience on this just not an expert. I have done all there is to do with testing for proper voltage on the system and for draft issues that is not an issue. Why would you even suggest replacing the door I am not that ingnorent. If you were to watch the ignition process the pilot will come on and light with or with out the door on but, if the door is on it makes the pilot flicker and the coupler won't read correctly and try to restart the possess of liting the unit. Some research on the web has proven that the old style pilot assy is not good and this issue has been reported a lot. I am currently trying to find a whole

    replacement assy for the q345A1008 pilot and I can find the q345U1005 but, I can not find a new bracket assy to go with the new style pilot. I know I need left angle hood ..BCR-18 and 1/4 inlet. This new style does not however bolt on to the old style bracket. May you be any help with that ? Mine is the old style with the pilot bar horizontal
  • zwulfkezwulfke Posts: 8Member

    The reason for the gas valve is I can not control the pilot with the adjustmrmrnt screw. I cleaned the current pilot to make sure it was clear of blockage
  • JStarJStar Posts: 2,752Member
    Now we're getting somewhere

    Did you check incoming gas pressure? Could explain not being able to adjust the pilot.
  • zwulfkezwulfke Posts: 8Member

    Pressure was checked and had to install a regulator to lower the pressure it was to high when I installed the unit I used a dormant and a gage to get it to what the unit calls for. When it does light the main burners adjust just fine and look great. Anything for my pilot assy question ?
  • zwulfkezwulfke Posts: 8Member

    Pressure was checked and had to install a regulator to lower the pressure it was to high when I installed the unit I used a dormant and a gage to get it to what the unit calls for. When it does light the main burners adjust just fine and look great. Anything for my pilot assy question ?
  • JStarJStar Posts: 2,752Member

    Utica did have a change-over in pilot designs. The issue had more to do with the pilot being blown out by excess draft conditions. If this is a new boiler, it should have the new pilot assembly already.

    What were the incoming and manifold gas pressures?
  • zwulfkezwulfke Posts: 8Member

    Is a used boiler ... Was lp to begin with and now natral gas. It does in fact have the old assy. I'll just hit up Webb and figure out what I may need to come up with. I get your trying to help but, also feel I am being patronized.
  • JStarJStar Posts: 2,752Member

    My responses were light hearted, and not ill-intended. Tim gave you advice on some things to try, and then you came back saying that you would be changing random parts. That drives us crazy!

    I would still look for a gas pressure issue before swapping pilots or valves.
  • Tim McElwainTim McElwain Posts: 4,334Member
    No one is trying to patronize you

    we have no idea what your level of experience is so we are trying to help.

    Used products make me nervous so hopefully that is not the issue.

    As for pilot adjustment if you spray a little WD-40 into the pilot adjustment screw area it will free up adjustment. Keep in mind the pilot is not regulated it is on what ever the pressure is in the building.

    You said a regulator had to be installed to reduce pressure that was too high, what was the pressure? In what position is this regulator to reduce pressure?

    It also helps when you come here to ask questions that you give the complete story otherwise we are just guessing. I did look up the boiler and wiring diagram for your boiler so you see we do try to help and not just patronize folks who come here. We definitely feel your pain and just want to help. Pilot outage issues and combustion related problems can sometimes be difficult to diagnose. I have had some experience however and surely want to help you.
  • Tim McElwainTim McElwain Posts: 4,334Member
    coupler won't read correctly

    I assume by this you are talking about the flame rod not a thermocouple as this pilot is a spark ignition pilot. So what are you getting for a microamp reading when the pilot stays on?

    The Q345A-1008 should be available from Utica or a local dealer who handles Utica. That way your are matching like for like.

    Did you do the conversion from LP to natural gas?
  • RobGRobG Posts: 1,850Member
    Lp conversion

    It sounds to me like the conversion was not done or not done completely / correctly. In looking at the Utica I&O manual for this boiler, the pilot, the gas valve, and the burner orifices all need to be changed. Was this done?

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