ignitor molex plug

drhvac

where could I get the male and female connectors that go in the ignitor molex plugs? And is there a special crimping tool, or would the regular wire crimping tool work? Can't find anywhere. I have the tool that takes the connectors out of the molex plug, but it sometimes screws the connector up. Thanks

Gary_17

radioshack

has a large selection of connectors

drhvac

tool

Is there a special crimping tool?

LarryC

Molex crimp pin hand tools and vendors.

Yes, there are crimp tools for every crimp contact.  If the extraction tool for the contacts looks like a piece of thinwall tubing, AND it goes over the contact side of the connector, what it does is to compress the tangs that spring out to retain the contact in the plug body.  If you are careful in removing the contact, the tang can be gently bent back out to restore its locking ability.



Go online to Digikey, Mouser, or Allied Electronics, to purchase to plug bodies, contacts, the extraction tool.  If you can determine which connector family they are using, you can go to either TYCO (formerly AMP) or Molex to get the correct tool and instructions.  If you only need small quantities, often the OEM will sample you parts for free.



BE CAREFUL BECAUSE THE DIFFERENT MANUFACTURER'S CONNECTORS ARE __NOT__ INTERCHANGEABLE.

Tim McElwain

Why do you need to do

this?

drhvac

why?

To make life easier, isn't that what we all strive for? Alot of ignitors from different units are exactly the same except for the plug. Sometimes when I use the tool to pull out the pin, it gets screwed up, so if I were to have the proper crimping tool with the propr pins on the truck, I would have the ability to replace the pin and install it professionally on the wire. I found the proper tool which is a 16801 open barrel contact crimping tool if anyone is interested. I got it online at tequipment.net for $20 plus shipping. The most common connector pins used in the ignitor are .093 male pins.

Tim McElwain

Just cut the wire

and leave the connector in place then if you replace the igniter cut the end of if different and wire nut the two sections together.



It has been my limited experience over the last 50 years that attempting to redo something done by a factory system such as you are attempting down the road becomes another troubleshooting diagnoses problem. Help your self do what you want but why make life difficult. I like to follow the KISS principle when I can. I do applaud you however for your conscientious efforts.

drhvac

no

I've done it that way when I had no other choice, but I rather do it the right way. If you have the right tools it easy to do it the right way. Take a look on youtube and search "molex crimping". Find the video that is about 14 minutes. The guy shows you how to crimp it. In one squeeze you have a perfect crimp. I think its worth the $20. The guy on the video calls himself a "tool ****". I guess that's what I am too.

Hvactech

Huh?

The hsi may look the same or mount the same but the most important thing is A the voltage rating and B that it fires off the first time on a cold start. Diff hsi need diff warm up times witch is built into the algorithm on the board. Doing what your doing comes with risk at the h/o's cost and should only be done as a temp fix not a time saver or making life easier. Come on doc!

drhvac

come on doc?

What's that? Obviously the voltage has to be right. We are not talking about silicon nitride ignitors here that come in different voltages. We are talking about the very basic 120 volt ignitors that are common to alot of units, and are obviously the same with different plugs. 120 volts is 120 volts. Once the board sends 120 volts to an ignitor it lights, period. The boards give the ignitors plenty of time to light to their full potential. Ever here of k.i.s.s. This is just another option to have, and like I said earlier, I like to have alot of tools. I'll probably use it twice a year.

I used to think to much into things and drive myself crazy until someone told to me to k.i.s.s., and that is usually all it comes down to.

Hvactech

Ohms = resistance

Your right about voltage but as far as diff hsi go they all have diff resistance. That's why diff boards give diff hsi warm up time. So they may look the same but one may take longer then the other to ignite. Like I said a cold start is the key test. It just sounds wrong to me if kept as a permenant solution. To get them heat that night ok.

Tim McElwain

Here is the deal on

Hot Surface Igniters - Silicon Carbide Igniters



Norton (Originally Saint Gobain now CoorsTech) has the 201 igniter 120 VAC 34 second warm up time and the 271 igniter 120 VAC 17 second warm up time, both operate between 4.25 amps to 4.75 amps current. The 201 has an RTR (Room Temperature Resistance) of between 45 to 400 ohms. The 271 RTR is between 40 to 75 ohms. The actual control of the warm up times is done by the Module or Integrated Furnace or Boiler Control. White Rodgers has their F767A Series which are 20 second or 40 second igniters (really the same as the 17 and 34 just different electronic control on the boards). The Norton Igniters are distributed by Robertshaw under their catalog number Series 400 they range from 41-401 to the 41-414 they are all 17 second igniters except for the 41-413 which is a special igniter for the Carlin G3A and B Power Gas Conversion Burner.



There is also a Norton 101 Igniter for use on Gas Dryers and a Norton 501 for use on Gas Ranges.



Norton has the Mini-Igniters 301 for RV's at 12 volts, the 401 which is a 24 volt igniter and the 601 which is a 120 volt they all have shorter warm up times between 3 to 5 seconds.



The Norton and White Rodgers Igniters are interchangeable if you have the cross reference sheet for doing that.



Some equipment manufacturers have proprietary igniters made just for them and that sometimes make replacement difficult. What is different typically with the igniters is the wiring harness and molex plug connectors and the mounting bracket (ceramic portion). There are several web sites for replacements for silicon carbide igniters.



Silicon Nitride Igniters



White Rodgers came out with a Silicon Nitride Upgrade Kit 21D64-1 and the later version 21D64-2.



Honeywell has the "Glowfly" Q3200U1004 (Single Packet) or the Q3200U2002 (Six Pack)



These are for replacing the Silicon Carbide Igniters.